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12-14-2012, 11:26 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NYC / Westchester | | | Mute Clamp Concept Here is a drawing in response to an old thread about a simple bridge mute. In particular, a non-permanent, easy to apply/remove bridge mute.
I would like to make this. If anyone is interested in starting up a little project, let me know.
Anyone have a 3D printer? I can create a Solid works part for output... Clamp-on bridge mute?
Last edited by maguire : 12-15-2012 at 10:58 AM.
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12-15-2012, 12:26 AM
| | | | I see no reason for the spring or the part
that goes over the strings. All you have to
do is slip something under the strings. The
string tension will hold it in place.
Tabdog
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12-15-2012, 12:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Biloxi, MS | | | has to be anchored (or pressed against) to the body somehow, otherwise if you hit a note on one string it'll ring out on others
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12-15-2012, 08:28 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NYC / Westchester | | | Great feedback!
Time to hit the drawing board again. I'll see if I can change it to meet your comments!
Tabdog - I was trying to make it super fast to put on and take off. I have found that sliding a foam pad underneath takes some time and adjusting. Maybe I'm just using the wrong foam density or foam size. Any experience with that? | 
12-15-2012, 08:42 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: West of Stumptown, USA | | | I still like it.
How about something similar to a Roland pickup that has a lever like yours that raises and lowers? Maybe an adjustment for different heights or foam inserts of different thicknesses?
It's a great concept. True that most mutes are between body and strings, but your design may still work. | 
12-15-2012, 08:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: scotland | | Quote:
Originally Posted by maguire Here is a drawing in response to an old thread about a simple bridge mute. In particular, a non-permanent, easy to apply/remove bridge mute.
I would like to make this. If anyone is interested in starting up a little project, let me know.
Anyone have a 3D printer? I can create a Solid works part for output... Attachment 305618 Clamp-on bridge mute? | would using a clamp like that not make it act like a bridge and put out your intonation. the damp under the strings does not change the tuning.
I may be wrong as i have only tried the foam under the strings.
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12-15-2012, 08:46 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Deerfield Beach, FL | | | You could probably modify a hair-clip of some sort to see how practical this would be. I think the energy from the string you're playing would transfer across to the other strings, but it may still work. | 
12-15-2012, 10:02 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ohio | | | If you use a nice, soft foam in the jaws it would work like a piece of felt woven through the strings. I think it's a nice idea, at least worth a quick prototype or two. | 
12-15-2012, 10:03 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NYC / Westchester | | OKay, here is another shot at it - using a more conventional layout but may still be easy to remove. Probably easier to manufacture too - due to the lack of hinge assembly.
Good comment about intonation. I wonder how any muting above the bridge intonation point changes the intonation... | 
12-15-2012, 10:08 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mount Vernon, Illinois | | | You're making a complex device that does exactly the same thing as a single thicker piece of foam rubber.
Just remove the springs and use a thicker piece of foam, it's already springy. | 
12-15-2012, 10:09 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Diego, California | | | some nice ideas. i endorse this project! | 
12-15-2012, 10:22 AM
| | | | Useful or useless, the drawing is a work of art in itself.
Timon | 
12-15-2012, 10:26 AM
| | | | I like the clip idea. I think it is upside down in your drawing, though - i wonder is the hinge should follow the gauge of the strings.
When a put a mute between the body and the strings, adjusting individual string mutes is important. With the clamp, i could probably angle it to get even sounding dampening.
I like it. Seems like a useful part of any bass player's bag of tricks. Currently, I use a wadded up piece of polar fleece. | 
12-15-2012, 10:26 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: West of Stumptown, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by timonvh Useful or useless, the drawing is a work of art in itself.
Timon | I agree!
There's a few reincarnated da Vincis around here...
da Vincii? | 
12-15-2012, 10:27 AM
| | | | I would probably be interested in buying and testing one of the prototypes. | 
12-15-2012, 10:28 AM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by maguire Here is a drawing in response to an old thread about a simple bridge mute. In particular, a non-permanent, easy to apply/remove bridge mute.
I would like to make this. If anyone is interested in starting up a little project, let me know.
Anyone have a 3D printer? I can create a Solid works part for output... Attachment 305618 Clamp-on bridge mute? | That device will make all of your notes played go sharp. That is what mechanical mutes do.
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12-15-2012, 10:29 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: ATX | | Put screws on the ends so that you can adjust it like on a Music Man bridge and you've got a winner. Quote:
Originally Posted by maguire OKay, here is another shot at it - using a more conventional layout but may still be easy to remove. Probably easier to manufacture too - due to the lack of hinge assembly.
Good comment about intonation. I wonder how any muting above the bridge intonation point changes the intonation... |
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12-15-2012, 10:30 AM
| | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Ric5
That device will make all of your notes played go sharp. That is what mechanical mutes do. | Don't let this stop you. Palm muting is also mechanical muting, and is a valid technique. | 
12-15-2012, 10:39 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NYC / Westchester | | | Awesome feedback all around.
I think that both concepts could use a few tweaks to become more perfect.
I'll take any comments and try to improve the designs in drawing format, before modeling and printing a prototype. Both will be prototyped.
I think V2 (bridge style) is probably less of a risk, but V1 (hairclip) is kind of cool in my opinion I'd like to give it a try.
Not quite there yet, but I think it would be awesome to get some testers send comments and help out with the refinement of the prototypes... | 
12-15-2012, 10:45 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NYC / Westchester | | Quote:
Originally Posted by M.R. Ogle You're making a complex device that does exactly the same thing as a single thicker piece of foam rubber.
Just remove the springs and use a thicker piece of foam, it's already springy. | Hi Ogle,
I like your approach to simplicity - and I agree with you about the foam pad - it is the simplest way to mute the strings. I've always had trouble with shimming the foam pad in and out from under the strings in the middle of a set (or even a song).
Like I said earlier - maybe I am using the wrong shape or softness of foam but usually it takes a lot of fussing to cram the foam in there.
This design is meant to be a quick application mute.
Do you have any dimensions or foam types that you think generally work well for a simple foam pad version?
Thanks for the input! | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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