NBD: 1980 Westbury Track IV Matsumoku double-P
I've been patiently waiting for a quality example of one of these to present itself at a seemingly reasonable price. This awesome axe was delivered yesterday.
AFAIK all original, including the case, with the exception of pickup foam which I replaced last night. Looks and functions great after 90 minutes of elbow grease, still needs a better setup.
Congratulations on your acquisition of freaky goodness! I've never seen one of those. Awesome!
Yeah, I've always thought they were unique looking. The looks are what caught my eye.
Set neck vintage Japan Matsumoku made double-P. Feels like a somewhat J width neck with a chunky C style radius. Those weird-O vintage style 3 point bridges.
I had a track II for a few months. GREAT tone out of that bass. the track II has the single P closer to the bridge, which looks like a gibson style bridge.
the neck on the one i had was a chunky C as well. for some reason i could not play that bass. i really wanted to because the build quality, tone, and style were all GREAT for the price. my fretting hand cramped within 3 songs usually, and the small body made for a strange offset when playing standing up. Seemed like i was playing a 36" scale bass, but wasnt...
SICK BASS tho. The one i had was equipped with the cream covered DiMarzio P's.
I can do chunky, I just can't get comfortable on WIDE necks. I have this MusicMan SUB 2-band active bass I keep trying to get comfy on, it's just too wide feeling after playing J-width necks for so long.
Probably the best known Westbury player (warning - language). Although he played the single pickup model.
I read up on these a while back. Apparently the bridges were faulty, and a great many of them broke.
Those bridges are garbage! You can't even fit a Gibson 3 point on there. :(
The bridges can be a problem. On Vantage basses with that bridge (some Vantages are also Matsumoku products) the Epiphone three point works but some people have found they have to use the original saddles.
The bridge on there now is flawless, no issues. I'm assuming it's stock due to the dirt that came collected in the nooks and crannies. :p And it's 33 years old.
I can see where if the bridge itself wasn't well manufactured misusing the 3 point adjuster screws could put a lot of stress on the opposing hooks that contact the posts. My biggest gripe is the bridge falls off if you remove all of the strings. :) And then the saddles all fall out, too. Heh. In fact, I need to probably take my saddles out and study them to make sure I put them back in the correct positions. I'm going to guess some are taller than others to follow the fretboard radius. And that I didn't put them back in the correct order. Again, my first time with this type of bridge.
Either way it's certainly an interesting bridge design. I'm assuming the only reason it's even on there is due to the crazy carved top. No way you could even install a standard flat slab style bridge on a body like this.
I'll get a couple additional photos of the body relief and the bridge in case it helps anyone out in the future.
Some bridge pics.
Some helpful data:
* Note the G string saddle is shorter than the other three, and helps you from having to really lower that side of the bridge adjustment screws.
* Need to make sure the front of the saddle screws sit properly in their groove otherwise the tip end of the screw will pass through the back of the bridge and move around. The head sits just outside of the bridge itself.
* Orient your string balls diagonally to properly hook into the bridge as seen on the E, A, and G string. Don't orient them as seen with the D string in this photo.
* It's much easier to adjust the bridge with the strings loosened, otherwise they put a ton of pressure on the bridge making it challenging to adjust the leveling screws.
* Raise the front screw to adjust overall string tension.
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