new Warmoth build - Page 5

**bass4worship** · #81 06-04-2009, 07:54 PM

Real Sweet Bass, Love It and great job.

murphy · #82 06-04-2009, 07:55 PM

How bout a self design headstock logo?

Ian Perge · #83 06-05-2009, 04:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murphy

How bout a self design headstock logo?

I just discovered this thread, read through the entire thing, and that was the one thing I was going to propose!!

An absolutely beautiful Warmoth build - the Neo cover magnets ala Dingwall is a that when I have a bass built to my specs is something I'll certainly try, but perhaps have a "Finger Notch" carved to be able to slide a finger under the cover to lift it. Is there any reason you didn't go the more traditional route of using separate flip-out battery boxes as opposed to storing them in the control cavity? I'm glad you decided to stay with the uncovered pups, and it's very nice to see another Aero user here: I have 5-string Type 1s in my Mike Lull Modern 5 (only 1 of 4 or 5 that Mike used Aeros in as an experiment) and have found my Jazz Bass pickups of choice. Compared to Lull's Custom-wound Bassline pups they have a touch more low-mids, and a bit less of the harsh high-end that I find the Basslines tend to give out.

In terms of preamps, from my POV Bartolini's NTMB w/ MCT-3MC Mid-Boost unit is a great preamp to use with the Aeros if you choose to go Active: very "musical" with no boost or cut overwhelming. When I get the chance to have a Lull Modern 5 fretless made I'll most likely go with Aero's Type 4 pickups ("Type 1 pickup for fretless, tappers, and harmonic players") as opposed to the Bartolinis they typically use for fretless basses, which are generally too dark for my taste. I'd install Aeros in my Modern 4, but the stock custom-wound Fralins are certainly high-quality pickups that I don't feel need replacing at this point.

...and I can totally feel your pain on the price on Stacked Knobs: I'm replacing the TonePump preamp in my 3 Spectors ReBop DLXs (Zebrawood 4-string Exotic Top, 5-string Flame Maple fretted and fretless) with Aguilar OBP-3/SK-PPs in which I'll need two Stacked Knobs in each bass if I have the mids wired as Midrange boost & cut/Midrange Frequency Select, as well as for the Bass/Treble boost & cut.

Edit: I really should finish the post before posting it - completed sentence in first paragraph about battery boxes.

joeyl · #84 06-05-2009, 05:28 AM

thanks for all the kind words!

The hiss is mostly gone. The Nordstrand and ACG filter is a good match. I had to turn up the internal gain on the preamp to bring it to the same levels of the Aeros and Audere combo. I will be redoing the whole cavity with copper foil because I kinda like the bright and cheery look copper gives! And ACG recommends grounding the pots to metal not paint, hence the temporary strip you see in the pics.

I ditched the veneer idea on the pickups due to general consensus, but I do think that the black covers are too much of a contrast. Anyway it looks good as is.

Ian, loved the Aeros, however they sound best passive, and they now sit in my MIA Jazz. The preamps I have were emphasizing hiss on them. They are great pickups, their construction is high quality and the sound is to die for! I will try them with Barts when I get a chance. The good thing with the ACG preamp is that it came with 3 nice looking stacked knobs, I'm sure I paid for them in the price but it is nice not to have to add a cost

You have great looking basses. Lulls, Alleva, Nordstrand and the like are my inspiration for modern Jazzes!!

I also need a logo because I don't like naked headstocks. I'm thinking ANBU symbol (for those who know!)

grobe · #85 06-08-2009, 04:20 PM

Thanks for bringing that ACG to my attention. Are there any things you like about the ACG over the Audere? I thinking about building a custom Warmoth myself.

joeyl · #86 06-09-2009, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grobe

Thanks for bringing that ACG to my attention. Are there any things you like about the ACG over the Audere? I thinking about building a custom Warmoth myself.

I love the ACG, at first I did not, the sound was awesome but the gain was too low, tweaked the gain control on the preamp and everything was perfect.
I like it better than the Audere because it is more versatile, if you want to have only one bass to gig with, the ACG allows a lot of different sounds, some weird, and some classic tones, (think Wal) The Audere is just a cut-boost preamp, and it is pretty good at it. For example, you could add mids quickly with the Audere by twisting the mid control knobs, with the ACG, it would be a combination of low and hi pass tweaking! It was weird at first but I have found all the settings I need.
Finally the good thing is that they are both transparent.

joeyl · #87 06-19-2010, 04:05 PM

well I have decided to start another build.

Here is the neck

Specs:

Birdseye maple, abalone dots, Jazz width, Stainless Steel 6230 frets. It is a light neck: 1.8 pounds. More to come!!!

Xray66 · #88 06-19-2010, 05:08 PM

The last one turned out very nice. Considering you would probably have to pay at least 3k for something that quality at most companies, I think you did very well.

Did the electronics compartment have threaded inserts for the screws in the body? That's one thing I would do. Especially if you have no separate battery compartment.

joeyl · #89 06-19-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xray66

The last one turned out very nice. Considering you would probably have to pay at least 3k for something that quality at most companies, I think you did very well.

Did the electronics compartment have threaded inserts for the screws in the body? That's one thing I would do. Especially if you have no separate battery compartment.

thanks,

no the electronics compartment cover is held on with neo magnets, just pull on the cover and it pops off.

Bass-Adrenaline · #90 06-19-2010, 06:14 PM

How do you get ahold of the cavity cover to remove it?

joeyl · #91 06-19-2010, 06:26 PM

there is a tiny gap between the cover's edge and the wood of the cavity, I just slip my fingernail and pry it,

Bass-Adrenaline · #92 06-19-2010, 06:30 PM

Thats what i figured, thanks for the response. I really want to do that with my warmoth build but wasnt sure what the best way to do it would be.

lox · #93 06-19-2010, 07:36 PM

the first one is just gorgeous joey, you did a beautiful job
for what it's worth, i like the black pups too
i design things for a living and i think honesty is important, in fact i look for reasons to let hardware do it's job without apology

nice job on the posts too, this is a great thread, thanks
~lox

joeyl · #94 06-19-2010, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lox

the first one is just gorgeous joey, you did a beautiful job
for what it's worth, i like the black pups too
i design things for a living and i think honesty is important, in fact i look for reasons to let hardware do it's job without apology

nice job on the posts too, this is a great thread, thanks
~lox

thanks lox!

Warrior_Bass · #95 12-09-2010, 01:58 PM

I realize this is an old post, but I'm wondering...did you ever put copper foil in your control cavity? Did that eliminate the hum? I'm wondering if the conductive paint is a good way to go, or if I should stick to the copper. I think the paint looks nicer.

joeyl · #96 12-09-2010, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warrior_Bass

I realize this is an old post, but I'm wondering...did you ever put copper foil in your control cavity? Did that eliminate the hum? I'm wondering if the conductive paint is a good way to go, or if I should stick to the copper. I think the paint looks nicer.

no I never did put any foil, the hum went away after I swapped out the Audere preamp. And it was not hum, it was high freq hiss. If you have copper you should stick with it. I use paint because it is convenient for me, and I had trouble with copper coming loose before.