pricing a vintage p-bass??

[A-Step-Towards]

From what i see its all original, if the frets are fine, the pickup is original and so are the tuners I would be on it. Seriously if you dont buy it , post the info where it is. Thats a deal.

[thebrain]

Yeah^^, the S serial #s were definitely used up to about 82. The only way to really date the bass is to look at all the numbers.. pickup, pot and neck codes, along with the serial number. For instance, If the bass has a S7 serial with 78 pot codes and a 79 neckstamp, it would be a 79 because it would have been completed at the factory after the latest thing that's dateable.

However, if it had, say a S7 serial with a 78 neckstamp and 85 pot codes, it would be pretty safe to say it's a 78 with replaced pots. You really have to look at it as a sum of all its parts. Usually if all the parts are within a year or 2, you'd go with the latest of all the part's dates as the year it left the factory (because not all the parts were always made the same year). But if there are several years between the parts, then that means some have been replaced. There are some exceptions (like most 69 basses have 66 pots), but that's the general rule of thumb.

How the solder joints look can also help determine if the electronics are original. If they look like boogers, then it's probably not factory. Often people will replace parts with period correct parts, but they might not be original to the bass. Period correct parts usually don't affect the value like modern replacement parts would, but a trained eye can usually tell if the electronics have been replaced (even with the correct vintage parts).

I would recommend getting the book "The Fender Bass - An Illustrated History" if you are really wanting to get into vintage Fender basses. It has a lot of parts comparison pics and good info on the changes throughout the years.

Considering that a Mexican road worn bass costs as much as the bass you're looking at, $1000 is a good deal, even if the bass isn't all original (assuming there aren't any issues like a warped/cracked neck, etc..).

[MIMike]

I didn't realize the "s" numbers went much past early 80'. Sorry for any misleading advice. I was speaking more to the reference of someone trying to deceive by swapping out parts, like a serial number when they were on the neck plate. About half of the 70's basses I've owned had date stamps that were not legible.

I do agree, the sum of all the parts is the best way to authenticate.

[dfinnegan71]

It sounds like the general conscenses is that if it feels good and sounds good it's worth the price. I don't know about the tuners being original. I did ask about the pups being original and the store owner told me there we seymour duncan's in there at one point but the original one's are in there now. I think I might just go ahead and pull the trigger. If not I will tell you guys where you can get it. This bass needs to be played out, which is what I plan on doing with it. I'm in a bar cover band and a wedding function band. This would do both well.

[dfinnegan71]

Does this pic help date this bass?

[A-Step-Towards]

Its got somenice checking going on. The tuners are chrome not nickel so I mean it being a '77 sounds about right to me. Due to the black guard and what not I would say its a 77-80. If the pickups are original very sweet deal, if not its still a good deal

[James L]

I have a '78. It's a great bass. Lots of mojo. I would get that bass if I were you.

[kander]

Originally Posted by dfinnegan71

I am seriously considering buying a USA 1977 p-bass at my local shop and almost pulled the trigger today. It's got a lot of "mojo" which is pretty cool. But could be bad for resale. It feels absolutely marvelous in my hands and sounds...well,...like a good P bass sounds.
My question is how do I know what a fair price is on this? He was asking 1395. than had it marked down to 1195. I asked if He'd take 1000 and he will. Take a look at the pic.
Prices are all over the board on these I don't what to think. What are your thoughts??

How about you tell me where it is and I'll test it out first?

[dfinnegan71]

The whole body has that nice checking going on. I kinda dig it. Asking you guys this question is like a asking a fat kid if I should eat another burger or not.!! LOL!!

[spellcaster]

Based on how good it feels and sounds I won't give it a second thought.

[Gaolee]

Originally Posted by MIMike

...difference was, it did not feel good. The neck was chunky and uncomfortable.

One man's chunky and uncomfortable is another man's sought after baseball bat. Give me a P neck with some depth to it and I'm a very happy hack.

[thebrain]

I've found that it's not unheard of to find a S7 serial number in the early '80s, but it's a lot more common to find S8 and S9 ser. #s on '80-82 Fenders. I'll bet the pots and the neckstamp will show that it's a '77 or '78.

[Pet Sounds]

Have you bought it yet? My advice is, Do it. That's a great price.

[dfinnegan71]

I haven't yet....maybe tomorrow...

[dfinnegan71]

I did it. I bought this great ol' bass !!

[spellcaster]

Excellent! Congratulations!!!

[Musicman1901]

Congrats man! hang onto it forever. Seriously never let it go. This thread almost made me cry when I saw the title lol. I use to have a 1971 Fretless P-bass that was my baby and I sold it when i started getting into slapping and wanted a stingray. Biggest mistake I have ever made. Again, congrats on your new bass!

[michael_atw]

Originally Posted by A-Step-Towards

Its got somenice checking going on. The tuners are chrome not nickel so I mean it being a '77 sounds about right to me. Due to the black guard and what not I would say its a 77-80. If the pickups are original very sweet deal, if not its still a good deal

Nickel was earlier; chrome was later. So any chrome could be anywhere from '77-'82 or later of course.

I'm still 90% sure it is an early 1980's or late '79.

[godofthunder59]

Cool! Pictures please!

Originally Posted by dfinnegan71

I did it. I bought this great ol' bass !!

[dfinnegan71]

More pics tomorrow, I promise.