Rickenbacker 4003 tool kit

[Rockin Mike]

What tools come in the case for a Ric 4003?
I am looking at a used one with case but no tools.

I know I need a 1/4" L-shaped socket for the truss rods,
Is this one right?
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp..._Wrenches.html

and some kind of allen wrench for the string height adjustment,

and what's needed for the intonation adjustment?

Basically, what tools come with the bass when it's new?

[rockinrayduke]

Actually this is the driver that RIC suggests you use-

http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-Hollow.../dp/B004UNFR1A

And to my knowledge it does not come with the bass. You can find it a lot cheaper online if you search. Got mine for $8 from some online hardware store.

[Rockin Mike]

I read a review of the L-shaped ones from StewMac where the guy said the (pressed fit) handle came off the wrench head and he had a hard time getting the wrench head out of the truss rod cavity.

The one you pointed to looks a lot better.

Any notes on the tools needed for bridge height & intonation adjustment?

[rockinrayduke]

Intonation-phillips screwdriver, you'll probably be taking the bridge off to intonate it so any small phillips that'll fit will work I guess.

Bridge height-small allen

Outside of the Xcelite driver I think that's about it. I highly recommend getting that driver.

Also will be a big help. http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/default.htm

[RickenBoogie]

+1 Excelite 1/4" nut driver for truss rod adjustment. A small phillips head screwdriver, and that's all you really need. Ric does not provide these tools with their instruments, but they are easy to get in any case. Go easy if you work the truss rods. 1/4 turns only, and wait. Sometimes, it can take a few days to get the neck set up, but once it is set, it'll stay that way for as long as you stick to the same type/gauge strings.

[4001]

Originally Posted by rockinrayduke

Intonation-phillips screwdriver, you'll probably be taking the bridge off to intonate it so any small phillips that'll fit will work I guess.

And then guess as to where the saddle should be positioned and your chances of getting it in the exact right spot are pretty slim. So, keep de-tuning, removing the bridge, guessing where the saddle should be...again...and re-tune, check, hope it's in the right spot....

By the time you get the intonation set you will have aged another year.

Rickenbacker stock bridges are a PITA.

[Rockin Mike]

Originally Posted by rockinrayduke

Bridge height-small allen

Any idea what size allen wrench?
I wish Rickenbacker would post the specs on their site.

Especially with the smaller size allen wrenches, using one that's almost the right size can wind up stripping something.

[Rockin Mike]

Originally Posted by RickenBoogie

+1 Excelite 1/4" nut driver for truss rod adjustment. A small phillips head screwdriver, and that's all you really need. Ric does not provide these tools with their instruments, but they are easy to get in any case. Go easy if you work the truss rods. 1/4 turns only, and wait. Sometimes, it can take a few days to get the neck set up, but once it is set, it'll stay that way for as long as you stick to the same type/gauge strings.

Why Excelite? A lot of brands have a 1/4" nut driver with a 6" working length. Is there something special about the Xcelite (however you spell it)?

[jasper383]

Originally Posted by rockinrayduke

Actually this is the driver that RIC suggests you use-

http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-Hollow.../dp/B004UNFR1A

And to my knowledge it does not come with the bass. You can find it a lot cheaper online if you search. Got mine for $8 from some online hardware store.

I bought one of those, and the walls of the driver were too thick to go far enough down onto the truss rod nut.

Get a thin-walled, deep socket.

[Jeff Scott]

Originally Posted by 4001

And then guess as to where the saddle should be positioned and your chances of getting it in the exact right spot are pretty slim. So, keep de-tuning, removing the bridge, guessing where the saddle should be...again...and re-tune, check, hope it's in the right spot....

By the time you get the intonation set you will have aged another year.

Rickenbacker stock bridges are a PITA.

There is a very elegant mod to that makes intonation adjustments very easy to do. It does require some minor work with either a drill press or milling machine but once done will be a thing of utter simplicity to adjust.

[lyla1953]

two small allen wrenches and 2 spare keys....

[thiocyclist]

Originally Posted by 4001

And then guess as to where the saddle should be positioned and your chances of getting it in the exact right spot are pretty slim. So, keep de-tuning, removing the bridge, guessing where the saddle should be...again...and re-tune, check, hope it's in the right spot....

By the time you get the intonation set you will have aged another year.

Rickenbacker stock bridges are a PITA.

Have you ever actually done it?? Takes me 5-10 minutes.

[rockinrayduke]

Originally Posted by 4001

And then guess as to where the saddle should be positioned and your chances of getting it in the exact right spot are pretty slim. So, keep de-tuning, removing the bridge, guessing where the saddle should be...again...and re-tune, check, hope it's in the right spot....

By the time you get the intonation set you will have aged another year.

Rickenbacker stock bridges are a PITA.

Which is why I installed a Hipshot.

[RickenBoogie]

Originally Posted by Rockin Mike

Why Excelite? A lot of brands have a 1/4" nut driver with a 6" working length. Is there something special about the Xcelite (however you spell it)?

Doesn't matter what brand, so long as it's a thin walled 1/4" driver. Xcelite is the brand Ric will sell you from their site, and happens to be the one I have.

[Bongolation]

Originally Posted by rockinrayduke

Actually this is the driver that RIC suggests you use-

http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-Hollow.../dp/B004UNFR1A

$24?!?

[rockinrayduke]

Originally Posted by Bongolation

$24?!?

That's Amazon for you. I only posted that to show Mike what the driver was.

[Rockin Mike]

I'll check Home Depot tomorrow.

Thanks very much for the info!

[4001]

Originally Posted by thiocyclist

Have you ever actually done it?? Takes me 5-10 minutes.

Yeah, I have two that have the original bridge and setting the intonation on those takes a heck of a lot longer to get right than adjusting the other two that have Badass I's and with those Badass I's I can also adjust INDIVIDUAL string height.

I received my first Rickenbacker in Oct. 1981. So, yeah, I have actually done it. It is a PITA compared to other bridges and prefer the Badass bridges to the stock Rickenbacker bridge.

*Hey, that's just me and my opinion.

*I have to keep writing that more and more lately because it seems that this board like many other messageboards has the same infection of people frothing at the mouth to come up with another one-up comment to let others know how superior they are with their knowledge on said subject. God forbid anything is said that others dont agree with, like how I dislike P-Basses and Ampeg SVT's.

I'm not the first person to say the original Rickenbacker bridges are a PITA to adjust either.

[4001]

Originally Posted by rockinrayduke

Which is why I installed a Hipshot.

And if those were around in the 1980's I'd have installed those...no need for a surround around the bridge and it's a direct replacement as opposed to having to rout. If LOTS of people didn't think the original Ric bridge is a PITA to adjust, Hipshot wouldn't have even bothered most likely.

[Ric5]

The original bridge is a PITA for 3 reasons.

1 - It is cumbersome to intonate.
2 - The tailpiece sometimes fails and pulls up.
3 - The mechanical mute structure built into the tailpiece hinders palm muting.

But ... I only play 5 string Rick and the tailpiece has to be modified on the 5 string. The superstructure above the mute gets removes and the tailpiece gets extra screws to prevent pullup.



And on the 4004 basses I use a Schaller bridge.