The Rickenbacker Club Part Seven - Page 26

willsellout · #**501** 02-02-2013, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sartori

BEAD is pretty easy for me because it's just the bottom four strings of a five string set, so finding a starting point for gauges is simple.

I'm thinking of bumping the gauge up to 125-130 B string. Does that sound about right?

Sartori · #**502** 02-02-2013, 12:12 AM

Some people like a heavier one, but that sounds good to me.

thiocyclist · #**503** 02-03-2013, 10:10 AM

As long as the tensions match you don't have to ease down just to play low B and it will sound good across the board, in my experience. Even if you drop tune all of the strings this seems to work.

JackTheRipper · #**504** 02-04-2013, 06:36 PM

For drop C (CGCF), Skip at Circle K strings recommended 130/86/65/47. Drop him a note and see what he suggests for BEAD, he's really helpful.

--jack

Lazarus.Bird · #**505** 02-04-2013, 06:45 PM

Which is kinda funny, because with D'Addario Chromes (which, understandably, are higher tension) I use a .100 for CGCF tuning. Different strokes for different folks!

Sartori · #**506** 02-04-2013, 08:12 PM

I think you like the strings floppier than I do, Laz.

On bass I like my strings a little floppier than many people on these boards, but still fairly tense, like a standard tuned bass with medium/light strings.

On guitar, for some reason, I really like somewhat floppy strings. The guitar I keep in B standard tuning has .011 gauge strings.

inate_hex · #**507** 02-06-2013, 03:09 PM

hey guys, im about to pull the trigger and order a 4003. ive heard the QC can be a bit hit n miss. what are the obvious errors too look out for? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

Turlu · #**508** 02-06-2013, 03:21 PM

Check the nut job carefully, all neck and body joints, discoloration or binding not applied correctly. Ensure the relief on the neck is OK and check the truss rods if they work correctly.

QC is usually good on Ric basses so good luck!

Srirachaglo · #**509** 02-06-2013, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turlu

Check the nut job carefully, all neck and body joints, discoloration or binding not applied correctly. Ensure the relief on the neck is OK and check the truss rods if they work correctly.

QC is usually good on Ric basses so good luck!

+1

Just get it through the right dealer and you should be good to go! I am a cautionary tale, but ended up with a world-class experience through Pick of the Ricks. Read if you dare:

Ric 4003 NBD Redux
Ric 4003 NBD Letdown

Of course if you want to pay more to buy locally, you get the priceless benefit of hand-picking your bass. Good luck and congrats!

inate_hex · #**510** 02-06-2013, 06:58 PM

cheers guys. im lucky that ive got a dealer 8 miles away. they only tend to stock 1 or 2 ricks at a time (im in England) at least i now know what to look out for before making my purchase. thanks again.

Rockin Mike · #**511** 02-06-2013, 10:25 PM

Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe some dealers get better stock than others. For example, I believe the rumors are that Musician's Friend has a fairly high incidence of factory imperfect Rics compared to a dealer like Pick of the Rics which somehow gets the cream of the crop.

Your relationship with a bass is such a personal thing it is really important to play the individual instrument and get to know it before deciding whether to keep it. Be sure you know your dealer's return policy and respect them by keeping the instrument and its packaging in mint condition until you are sure it's a keeper.

Rockin Mike · #**512** 02-06-2013, 10:28 PM

I'm a fan of thin necks.
What year Ric would have a nice thin (fretboard to back) neck post 2006 (I like the adjustable pole pieces and switchable vintage tone circuit).

I want to keep my blueburst stock but am thinking hard about looking for a fireglow and having it modded for 5 strings.

willsellout · #**513** 02-06-2013, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackTheRipper

For drop C (CGCF), Skip at Circle K strings recommended 130/86/65/47. Drop him a note and see what he suggests for BEAD, he's really helpful.

--jack

Thanks, I will. Although why do you tune drop C versus just a BEAD? I'm new to alternate tunings. I normally use my 5 string when I need lower than E, but my current band situation requires a low C# and I'm tired of not being able to use the Ric

I have it pieced together right now with a set of .125, .105, .085, .065 to see how I'd like it. It works OK, but the Ric could use a fret level to get it where I'd really like it, action-wise, without fret buzz.

RhynoRock · #**514** 02-07-2013, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willsellout

Do any of you drop tune your Ric? I'm looking to try to use my Ric in my current project which requires a low C. What gauge strings do you guys use, if you do drop tune? Advice?

I tune CFA#D# with standard Roto '66 45-105 strings. A LITTLE loose but very useable with a neck tweak and saddle adjustment.

bassgod0dmw · #**515** 02-07-2013, 07:01 AM

Can anyone tell me a little bit about truss rod adjustment on one of these dual rod systems? Specifically, how do you know which rod to adjust, and how much? Right now I'm turning both rods the same amount and it seems to be working out just fine, but I'm not sure if that's the right way or not.

I'm still relatively new to my Ric, and right now I'm working on getting some better/lower action out of it.

hotrodjohn · #**516** 02-07-2013, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassgod0dmw

Can anyone tell me a little bit about truss rod adjustment on one of these dual rod systems? Specifically, how do you know which rod to adjust, and how much? Right now I'm turning both rods the same amount and it seems to be working out just fine, but I'm not sure if that's the right way or not.

I'm still relatively new to my Ric, and right now I'm working on getting some better/lower action out of it.

I am no luthier, but after i adjusted my rods to make the neck straight, there was some buzzing below the 5th fret on the g string side. So I loosened the rod on the g string side and the buzz went away. So I presume the rod affects the side of the neck it is on, am I right?

Kopfjaeger · #**517** 02-07-2013, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodjohn

I am no luthier, but after i adjusted my rods to make the neck straight, there was some buzzing below the 5th fret on the g string side. So I loosened the rod on the g string side and the buzz went away. So I presume the rod affects the side of the neck it is on, am I right?

Yes, mostly that is exactly how it works. Sometimes the rods needs to be adjusted independently of one another but not frequently. I can say that on all my newer truss rod Rickenbackers (post 1980) I adjust my rods equally.

If you run into "issues" I've slackened the strings and loosened both rods and started from scratch after letting her sit for day. Kinda like a factory reset button on a smart phone!! LOL!!

Sepp

willsellout · #**518** 02-07-2013, 08:19 AM

I emailed skip at circle k and he suggested the .142 balanced set. Im going to put in and order. While at it I'm going to do a fret level and crown and probably going to take it apart and shield it. She will be out for a couple weeks but back up and better than new.

kcole4001 · #**519** 02-07-2013, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodjohn

I am no luthier, but after i adjusted my rods to make the neck straight, there was some buzzing below the 5th fret on the g string side. So I loosened the rod on the g string side and the buzz went away. So I presume the rod affects the side of the neck it is on, am I right?

You are correct.
It's not rocket science, just adjust a little bit at a time (I use about 1/8 of a turn max) and allow a few minutes for reaction to make sure your results are what you're after and you'll be fine.

The modern truss rods really do work very well,and are pretty much 'set and forget' unless you change tunings or string types/gauges.

DaveSill · #**520** 02-07-2013, 08:56 AM

Check out this video, which slags Ricks for being hard to repair:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nR--0QSLQPg

I'm not a luthier, but I think there's probably something to what he's saying. However, the video is pretty annoying and hard to watch.

He keeps harping on this Leo Fender quote: "A quality instrument is easily repaired."

Now, Leo knew more about quality instruments than all of us combined, I'm sure, but I really don't think that quote is true. Repairability is certainly a desirable trait in an instrument--probably behind playability and sound--but does low repairability mean low quality? If a Stadivarius was hard to repair would it then be low quality?