The Rickenbacker Club Part Seven - Page 29

4001 · #**561** 02-08-2013, 08:27 PM

New Rickenbacker family photo.....

1981 4001, 1980 4001, 1983 4080/12, 1991 4001V63CS #15

shadven · #**562** 02-08-2013, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4001

New Rickenbacker family photo.....

Very nice!

RhynoRock · #**563** 02-08-2013, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4001

New Rickenbacker family photo.....

this makes me very jealous

thiocyclist · #**564** 02-08-2013, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willsellout

It wasn't my bass, luckily. It was one that was brought to me to fix. It was a case of misunderstanding how the adjustments are made. The guy made a lot of adjustments really quickly trying to correct playability issues that didn't have anything to do with the truss rods (Nut was F'd up). He also made the wrong adjustments (one clockwise, one counterclockwise)

I'm not a luthier by any stretch, but this person knew I was familiar with Ric's so he brought it over. Turns out there wasn't anything wrong with the neck other than the truss rods being out of whack. The neck came back fine after a couple days of adjustments in a stable environment. It's was a great bass once it was set up.

Interesting. The reason I have concluded oppositely, that the truss rods don't act independently, came after I was brought a Ric under similar pretenses except it was a warped fingerboard that was bowing only on the G-string side. So after some gentler trying I finally went ahead and did the "extreme", slackening the E-string rod and tightening the G-side rod fully (also manually flattening the neck as I did this). And the result was no different than anything else we tried. The neck would flatten a bit, but no matter the configuration of the rods, it always landed in the same conformation with more bow on one side.

willsellout · #**565** 02-09-2013, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thiocyclist

Interesting. The reason I have concluded oppositely, that the truss rods don't act independently, came after I was brought a Ric under similar pretenses except it was a warped fingerboard that was bowing only on the G-string side. So after some gentler trying I finally went ahead and did the "extreme", slackening the E-string rod and tightening the G-side rod fully (also manually flattening the neck as I did this). And the result was no different than anything else we tried. The neck would flatten a bit, but no matter the configuration of the rods, it always landed in the same conformation with more bow on one side.

Yeah the neck I was working on was fine, it was just wonky because the guy who tried to adjust it just didn't know what he was doing. If I had run into a bad neck, there's no amount of truss rod tweaking that could cure it without a legitimate luthiers help, for sure.

This is why I love the Ric's. There's no two that are the same, and they are all like a beautiful woman that you have to seduce

. And a good honest discussion about experiences is awesome. Sorry if I came off as a dick. I'm horrible in type.

Jazz4 · #**566** 02-09-2013, 09:01 AM

I believe I found a source for a new set of hairpin trussrods for my 4003. I do have another question though.
Is there a huge advantage to replace the stock nut with a bone or brass nut?? Since I need to replace it anyways.
Mine needs to be replaced as the grooves are super worn and heights are uneven. I'm going to send the 4003 off for a new nut, fret level and trussrod install and set-up.

Coolhandjjl · #**567** 02-09-2013, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazz4

....Is there a huge advantage to replace the stock nut with a bone or brass nut?? Since I need to replace it anyways.....

Seriously, how many open strings does one really play? I can see the validity of a bone nut for aesthetics, but a composite material of a bone color will work equally well. As far as a brass nut, are you referring to a zero fret in brass?

Rockin Mike · #**568** 02-09-2013, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazz4

I believe I found a source for a new set of hairpin trussrods for my 4003. I do have another question though.
Is there a huge advantage to replace the stock nut with a bone or brass nut?? Since I need to replace it anyways.
Mine needs to be replaced as the grooves are super worn and heights are uneven. I'm going to send the 4003 off for a new nut, fret level and trussrod install and set-up.

Nuts are nuts in my book. You really only hear them on the open strings, except...

A high mass nut could add to the weight of the headstock, helping to eliminate dead spots (historically not a problem on Rics) but adding to neck dive, and any weight added to the headstock would do the same thing.

A Graphtech Tusq XL nut has builtin graphite so the string moves over it easier. Makes tuning easier and more stable.

Whoever you send it to make sure they specialize in Rics. If they try to adjust it like a Fender they will hose it up.

Lazarus.Bird · #**569** 02-09-2013, 11:56 AM

I put more value in a well cut nut than the actual material used. Don't really buy into it affecting my tone to a point where I'm going to notice.

willsellout · #**570** 02-09-2013, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazarus.Bird

I put more value in a well cut nut than the actual material used. Don't really buy into it affecting my tone to a point where I'm going to notice.

Exactly.

Nick901 · #**571** 02-09-2013, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speak2planets

So this is my newly acquired '74 4001 in Burgandyglo. I got her off a fellow TB'er and he took amazing care of her cause she is in fantastic shape. She even has the red side dots which I've never seen before. Could I get a number please???

489

Welcome to the club!

Nick901 · #**572** 02-09-2013, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazz4

Can I get a # please. Oct. '84 4003.

490

Welcome to the club!

Srirachaglo · #**573** 02-09-2013, 09:46 PM

Oh no... I just picked up my beloved P-Bass after a weeklong binge of only playing my new Ric. It just feels weird now. The vintage frets seems so tiny and I hear dead notes and buzz I never heard before! Still love the tone, but it's not my Ric tone. My P-Bass isn't going anywhere, but damn I LOVE my Ric!!

Spleenface92 · #**574** 02-09-2013, 09:57 PM

My Rick became my main bass almost the second after I bought it.

Coolhandjjl · #**575** 02-10-2013, 09:50 AM

P's & J's, and their assorted clones, come and go like Las Vegas marriages. But when you get a good Ric, it's forever.

john_martin_sai · #**576** 02-10-2013, 10:02 AM

Mine since 1978.

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4001 · #**577** 02-10-2013, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john_martin_sai

Mine since 1978.

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What color is that? Looks like fireglo. Nice.

john_martin_sai · #**578** 02-10-2013, 11:01 AM

What color is that? Looks like fireglo. Nice.

Thanks!........Fireglo (Burgundy would have no shading variance - but it's kind of like a cross between the 2)......I think the color was laid on heavier than usual since there was some darkened areas (inconsistencies) on the original wood (right side).

Cost $360 used in '78 (thanks dad!)

BrandonBass · #**579** 02-10-2013, 12:27 PM

I got a question for all of you rick experts who have used a hipshot replacement bridge.

Can the saddles go lower than a recent(2011) stock rickenbacker bridge?

thiocyclist · #**580** 02-10-2013, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrandonBass

Can the saddles go lower than a recent(2011) stock rickenbacker bridge?

I don't think so. In some cases the Hipshot design is it is not very good at achieving low action on some Rics--maybe it's a neck angle/relief thing, I'm not sure, or maybe the bridges themselves have varied. If they bottom out you have to file the saddle like you would a Ric bridge... but you have to mind that your tailpiece break angle doesn't get too shallow in doing the procedure. If it gets near that point you probably have a bigger problem going on with the neck that needs addressed before the bridge setup.