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  #1  
Old 01-04-2013, 01:17 PM
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Angry Should I use another shim, or should Warmoth remedy their mistake?

NOTHING ever goes right the first TWO times.

So I'm not out of the woods yet with my 5-string Warmoth build with Hipshot trem. Warmoth didn't angle the neck pocket like they were supposed to, even though I double checked with them when ordering. So I already used 1 shim that I pulled from a Jackson Dinky guitar that doesn't need it because the tune-o-matic bridge can go low enough. Definitely helped, but the 1st string is still a tad high even with the bridge posts screwed all the way down, and the saddle as low as possible. And the only reason the low B and low E are OK is because they're tapered. I know not all bass strings are tapered, so that could be a problem down the line.

Warmoth claims they did angle the neck pocket... 1/2 a degree. In hindsight, I'm wondering if that was a joke.

So should I use another shim, or see if Warmoth would angle the pocket properly? I can already see the tiny gap between the heel and the pocket, so I'm paranoid about adding another shim.
  #2  
Old 01-04-2013, 06:12 PM
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From your description it sounds as if you might be covering the entire pocket with the shim. Yes...No?
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Last edited by ddnidd1 : 01-04-2013 at 06:14 PM.
  #3  
Old 01-04-2013, 06:14 PM
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No. lol

After I posted this, I saw there's a luthier's forum and posted it there. Though now someone pointed out the "hardware, setup and repairs" section. I can't win. lol
  #4  
Old 01-04-2013, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscomposer View Post
NOTHING ever goes right the first TWO times.

So I'm not out of the woods yet with my 5-string Warmoth build with Hipshot trem. Warmoth didn't angle the neck pocket like they were supposed to, even though I double checked with them when ordering. So I already used 1 shim that I pulled from a Jackson Dinky guitar that doesn't need it because the tune-o-matic bridge can go low enough. Definitely helped, but the 1st string is still a tad high even with the bridge posts screwed all the way down, and the saddle as low as possible. And the only reason the low B and low E are OK is because they're tapered. I know not all bass strings are tapered, so that could be a problem down the line.

Warmoth claims they did angle the neck pocket... 1/2 a degree. In hindsight, I'm wondering if that was a joke.

So should I use another shim, or see if Warmoth would angle the pocket properly? I can already see the tiny gap between the heel and the pocket, so I'm paranoid about adding another shim.
Do you have a square, micrometer, vernier caliper or regular caliper? Use one of these to check the angle. If it's not angled, do something about it. If it is, you should have been more specific about how much angle you wanted- 1/2 of a degree is approximately equal to squat.

Where did you put the shim, if you see a gap at the heel? If you tighten the heel screws first, you won't see a gap and it may be enough of a difference to make more angle unnecessary.

Removing 1/2 degree of material on a heel that's 3" long means they needed to take off about .0025", which is thinner than a human hair. You could stack three pieces of paper and triple this angle.

This question needs to be answered- how much angle do you think you need? Also, are the bridge saddles cut for each string?
  #5  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:24 PM
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The saddles are cut for each string. Of course I had no idea what angle it should be when ordering. I had to take their word that 1/2 a degree would suffice. In the Luthier's forum, someone had me use a straight edge to check the angle; with 1/2 a degree, it should drop about 1/16" at 7" from the heel. It's not even a mm. So I'm pretty sure they didn't angle the neck pocket at all.
  #6  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:36 PM
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What's the reasoning behind angling the pocket?
A shim works fine and is a reversible adjustment.
A pocket with too much angle would mean a visible gap between the neck and bogy if a shim was needed. Having it flat makes more sense, no?
  #7  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:51 PM
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^Most bolt-on guitars with a tune-o-matic have an angled neck pocket AND a shim (at least in my experience). You only need 1 or 2 degrees. The shim I got in there now gives it about 1/2 a degree and I don't see any gap looking at it face-on.
  #8  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:02 PM
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Just the opposite, I think. Angling the pocket eliminates the need for the shim and insures better neck/body contact.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazz Ad View Post
What's the reasoning behind angling the pocket?
A shim works fine and is a reversible adjustment.
A pocket with too much angle would mean a visible gap between the neck and bogy if a shim was needed. Having it flat makes more sense, no?
  #9  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:09 AM
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How did that 1/2 degree number came together?

I once un-shimmed a guitar neck pocket by routing the bottom at a different angle. I forgot the values but it was a couple full degrees.
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