Show us your 3 pickup basses!

[jay tay]

Originally Posted by Doner Designs

Looks like it might be discontinued but last time I looked it was double the price of a MIA P or J in the US.

Yeah they were discontinued quite a while back, Stu Hamm has been with Washburn for e few years now!

[jay tay]

This is Stu Hamm's current Washburn sig, I know it looks like it only has the two pickups, but it also has individual Piezo bridge pickups. here are the specs.

• Stu Hamm Signature Model
• Double cutaway electric bass
• Alder body
• Bolt on maple neck
• Rosewood fingerboard
• Yin Yang/Bass Clef inlay
• 34" scale
• Nut width: 42mm
• 24 frets
• Active J & MM style pickups
• individual Piezo bridge pickups
• 1 Volume, 1 blend, 1 tone & 1 Piezo volume control
• Black hardware
• Case: GCSH (sold separately)
• Color: Natural Matte, Tobacco Sunburst Sparkle

http://www.washburn.com/products/basses/sh/shb60.php

[Flux Jetson]

I've never seen the J and MM pickups ~reversed~ like that before. Neato.

[Flux Jetson]

Originally Posted by Stealth

Sure thing, Flux Jetson.
....

Thank you Stealth ...

It's easier to see now, much appreciated.

Anyhow, back to a question I had about this subcircuit, doesn't it cut output gain pretty heavily on passive basses?

[BlueTalon]

Originally Posted by Flux Jetson

To have Warmoth add a 3rd pickup, or anything not in their CNC library, they do it by hand with a router. They charge a $40 per hour fee with a one hour minimum (in other words, adding a 3rd pickup will cost ya 40 bucks).

I've built eleven Warmoths so far and have gone that (ahem) "route" a number of times with them. I've dealt with "Spike" there at Warmoth since 2001.

I went ahead and ordered a body. They charge $45 per custom route now. I wanted the bridge pickup in the normal position, and two neck pickups positioned 2" edge-to-edge, so they charged me for custom route x 2 = $90.

Pictures to follow.

[Doner Designs]

Originally Posted by eukatheude

Woah, these are awesome! How did you wire a passive bass control? How does that even work?

Someone beat me to it with the diagram (thank you). I would add however that passive controls are cut-only. Flat is fully clockwise.

With a 3 pickup bass this can work out reasonably well because you have the pickup selection as another tone control approach.

The bass cut can help trim the mud from the neck and the treble cut can take the edge off the bridge.

Somebody mentioned volume loss with bass rolloff. That can happen which is one reason we added the Bartolini TC3 boost only preamp.

[Doner Designs]

My son had some time today so he drew up this diagram of our Air Force Bass controls. There is also a video with sound clips posted on our facebook page. Link below. Not sure how to post here directly. Not on youtube yet. https://www.facebook.com/donerdesigns?ref=hl

[Thumper]

It took some doing, but here are some photos showing how the PUPs line up.

[Doner Designs]

Are those in the Stu Hamm sig positions? I'm thinkin his J's are closer together.

Originally Posted by Thumper

It took some doing, but here are some photos showing how the PUPs line up.

[Doner Designs]

We finally got around to recording sound clips of our triple pickup Air Force Bass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vABSxGrZdPg

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Doner Designs

Are those in the Stu Hamm sig positions? I'm thinkin his J's are closer together.

No; thankfully this started as a P. To me the neck J is in a sweetspot, definitely plenty of bottom

[Flux Jetson]

Originally Posted by Thumper

It took some doing, but here are some photos showing how the PUPs line up.

YO THUMPER ... if I may ask a favor of you .... can I get you to measure the pickups' centers? Just string-up a measuring tape from the NUT and then record and post what the measurements are to the centerline of each pickup? For the P-pickup, just split the difference and post the measurement right in the middle of both pickups. Be sure to measure from the NUT (everything should come out in the "20s" somewhere).

Here's a pic of what I mean ....



The measurements don't have to be "down to the atom" accurate.

THANKS!

[Thumper]

Sure will do when I get home; down in Mesquite NV for a long weekend

[Doner Designs]

I like the JPJ idea but would probably put the neck J closer to the neck and might use the 60's position for the bridge.

The JPJ is good for the classic tones but I like that the bridge and far neck are matching pickups because in my experience those two pickups together make a good combination (like on an EB-3).

Having a J in the middle could be beneficial too for matching output and impedance, but it would also be nice having the fat P sound in the sweet spot.

Three of these Delanos might be cool...

http://www.bestbassgear.com/mc4-hy.htm

So many choices, so little time and money.

Originally Posted by Flux Jetson

YO THUMPER ... if I may ask a favor of you .... can I get you to measure the pickups' centers? Just string-up a measuring tape from the NUT and then record and post what the measurements are to the centerline of each pickup? For the P-pickup, just split the difference and post the measurement right in the middle of both pickups. Be sure to measure from the NUT (everything should come out in the "20s" somewhere).

Here's a pic of what I mean ....



The measurements don't have to be "down to the atom" accurate.

THANKS!

[Flux Jetson]

Originally Posted by Doner Designs

Three of these Delanos might be cool...

http://www.bestbassgear.com/mc4-hy.htm ....

At $210 a pop you've have $630 just in pickups! Yikes!

I'll stick with the J pickups thanks. I happen to have aquired a set of Duncan Design Squier J pickups recently, I'm hoping to be able to use them in combination with the same set already loaded in my bass to produce the sounds I'm shooting at. With the recent discovery of processing each EQ separately I may be able to scare up something useful tone-wise.

Put one set of the DDJB pickups in the normal postitions, and the second set in the Ric-locales (F36 and F24). Mix to suit. Use 4 "pop-up" volume controls to switch pickups on and off, and also set their realtive output levels.

Then, install a pair of XLR 3-conductor jacks ... OR ... even go as crazy to install a multiconnector on the bass, run a multiconductor cord to a breakout box that splits everything to standard 1/4 inch outs for independent processing.

Thinking out loud here.



Back to work!

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Flux Jetson

YO THUMPER ... if I may ask a favor of you .... can I get you to measure the pickups' centers? Just string-up a measuring tape from the NUT and then record and post what the measurements are to the centerline of each pickup? For the P-pickup, just split the difference and post the measurement right in the middle of both pickups. Be sure to measure from the NUT (everything should come out in the "20s" somewhere).

Here's a pic of what I mean ....



The measurements don't have to be "down to the atom" accurate.

THANKS!

A little on the slow side, but here they are, from the bottom of the nut:

Neck 26"
P PUP 28 1/2"
Bridge 31 3/4"

[Flux Jetson]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!

I love data.

That neck pickup is super close to the important "24th Fret" location (aka 2nd harmonic). On a 34" scale bass that would be at 25.5".

Man, I'd really love to hear that thing with the P and the neck pickup goin'.

[Thumper]

Yeah I love the neck PUP solo'd. No real way to get sound to you at this time. Only playing the 5ers with the country band and still have more songs to learn for the 1st gig on 1 Feb. Once I get to 50 or so I'll get it recorded thru their system. Plus still need to get the blend pot in and wired

[Flux Jetson]

Well, I wasn't like really ~asking~, it was more just voicing some wishful thinking.

[Doner Designs]

Here's a full story about our latest triple...

http://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/ba...heme-bass.html