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  #21  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bassistjoe93 View Post
Dingwall, that B string is just unreal. And the fanned frets require nothing at all to get used to ime. Dingwalls will cure all that ails ya.
what kind of Dingwall u got my man?
  #22  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bassybill View Post
Funny, I was thinking just the same about the Status.
Ok, now I'm confused: who's supporting what?
  #23  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 7777777 View Post
3K.... you should consider a used one as well, if LED is not that big deal for you.


MTD, Sadowsky, Pre-Gibson Tobias, Pedulla, Mike Lull, Ken smith, Alembic, Roscoe, etc.


It actually depends on your "tone" need.

I personally think you can't always get 3K to be spent on one bass.

But, if you still stick with Status or Dingwall, I would recommend to go with S-2.

Will never regret!
Same problem: new or used, can't get those here, except for the Tobias and sometimes a Ken Smith or two. I have a Pedulla Rapture J2, got it used! Any other bass u gotta get them custom made. What's the most versatile bass in your list?

Last edited by mexibass : 11-16-2012 at 03:08 AM. Reason: Mistake
  #24  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mexibass View Post
Ok, now I'm confused: who's supporting what?
Sorry, I can see where the confusion crept in.

I'm a big fan of Status basses.
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Last edited by bassybill : 11-16-2012 at 06:00 AM. Reason: typo
  #25  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bassybill View Post
Sorry, I can see where the confusion kept in.

I'm a big fan of Status basses.
Got it. So is it true that it is mainly a funk bass?
  #26  
Old 11-16-2012, 05:42 AM
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I agree that you would be wise to go used. If the particular instrument doesn't float your boat, you can re-sell without a big hit.
If you like natural finished alder, there is a four-string Super J in the TB classifieds as we 'speak'. I'm not affiliated with the seller,
just giving you a heads-up....
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  #27  
Old 11-16-2012, 05:51 AM
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You're gonna have to narrow down your goals with an instrument before you drop that much money on one. Status vs. Dingwall is apples to oranges.

I love my ABZ5, and I'm only about 5'6" tall. There are so many basses out there in that price range, and everyone here is gonna give you a different opinion on all of them.
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  #28  
Old 11-16-2012, 06:10 AM
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hey compadre I have a great Dingwall super J in case you are interested, I may go to Monterrey soon.
  #29  
Old 11-16-2012, 09:49 AM
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I don't own a super J, but I own a combustion. I'm literally shocked with the clarity I get playing in drop A with this bass. I LOVE my Spectors Low B/A, but the dingwalls got it beat in that category.
  #30  
Old 11-16-2012, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mexibass

what kind of Dingwall u got my man?
Super J4 in Olympic white with the matching headstock. I got this used before they released the J5. I've played a J5 and some of his similarly high end basses and that B string is flat unreal. The J5 I tested had a drop A tuner on it and it still sounded amazing!
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  #31  
Old 11-16-2012, 09:53 AM
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I am a DIngwall convert, I play an AB1. It is passive and I don't miss active basses at all (played them for years).
The even tension on the strings sounds and plays so good.
Fanned frets are easy to play.
  #32  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:36 AM
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Yes, many players think fanned frets only means higher tension on the low strings. It actually makes the tension across the fingerboard even from string to string, and thus makes equivalent notes sounds almost identical. Play your parallel fret 4 string, 14th fret of D. Now play the 9th fret on A. Same note, but something about the timbre is off. The 14th fret F# sounds kinda flabby, doesn't ring out as well, but the 9th fret sounds better.

Thats eliminated on a multi-scale neck.

I suggest, instead of dropping absurd cash on either option, look hard on the used market. You might even be able to pick up a used Dingwall Combustion for under $1000, and still afford a used Status similar to what you want. You would later have no problem flipping them both to get a higher end version of whichever bass you prefer.
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  #33  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:51 AM
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tough choice. The low b on the Dingwall is as good as it gets . The rest of the bass is great as well. I love me a Dingwall. Fanned fretts kick butt on the cool factor too. On the other hand a Status is on my bucketlist. They are amazing basses with over the top craftsmanship. They do just about play themselves, and they are the only ones to get the best of both worlds tone wise for graphite and wood. They sound amazing as well and not really like anything else. Gotta play both and get the one that speaks to you. their too different of animals to call. My other choice would be a custom order euro spector ( doug wimblish sig with custom color), but thats me.
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  #34  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mexibass View Post
well, that doesn't sound good. I'm not that tall and I just started getting shoulder problems too. Man, didn't think a 37 incher would be a problem for my height!
I've never heard of anyone else having that problem though, FWIW.
I'm about 5'6" and for me it was super comfy and ergonomic, except when I was camped out on the low low notes, then my shoulder got tweaked. Tried different strap heights, etc.
But I was definitely the exception--as I say, most people have no problem. But yeah, would be good to try first if possible. Build quality is second to none. Records so good it's scary.

Last edited by pbass2 : 11-16-2012 at 11:52 AM.
  #35  
Old 11-16-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TheEmptyCell View Post
Yes, many players think fanned frets only means higher tension on the low strings. It actually makes the tension across the fingerboard even from string to string, and thus makes equivalent notes sounds almost identical. Play your parallel fret 4 string, 14th fret of D. Now play the 9th fret on A. Same note, but something about the timbre is off. The 14th fret F# sounds kinda flabby, doesn't ring out as well, but the 9th fret sounds better.

Thats eliminated on a multi-scale neck.
So in your experience, is that a practical difference on a 4-string? I mean as compared to a similarly good bass, something that most people would play and say "the strings are nicely balanced on this one".

I really liked the fan when I played a Dingwall in the shop briefly, but I sort of got the impression that it was mainly useful for the extended-range folks and would be sort of an affectation on a 4-string. If I'm wrong, then I have one more item for the GAS list, I guess...

-NT
  #36  
Old 11-16-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ntenny View Post
So in your experience, is that a practical difference on a 4-string?

-NT
Oh yes. If you were to show up at my door, I would ask you in, seat you on my couch and hand you my Super J/P four string. You would be amazed and probably come down with a severe case of DAS.
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  #37  
Old 11-16-2012, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntenny View Post
So in your experience, is that a practical difference on a 4-string? I mean as compared to a similarly good bass, something that most people would play and say "the strings are nicely balanced on this one".

I really liked the fan when I played a Dingwall in the shop briefly, but I sort of got the impression that it was mainly useful for the extended-range folks and would be sort of an affectation on a 4-string. If I'm wrong, then I have one more item for the GAS list, I guess...

-NT
the fanned frets keep them a little more balanced but they still sound different and really should. when you get into a 5 string is where the dingwall slays. the extended scale on the low b is really the best. all notes are loud and clear. really the best low b out there by design in tone and feel. 4 vs 4 i would take the Status. no real edge imo. for the dingwall unless its 5 vs 5.
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  #38  
Old 11-16-2012, 02:54 PM
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Very different feels and tones here. I like both, but I own a Dingwall, so I guess that's where my bias lies
  #39  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:05 PM
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Okay, since we're confessing, I am biased. I prefer wood over graphite for neck construction.
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  #40  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mexibass View Post
You got me! I know it is not a very good reason, considering that this option adds around 650 USD to the original price. It's just that I just have always wanted that glowing thing on my fretboard... can't really explain it. I could even pay for the bass without even tried a graphite neck before! But in the end I guess getting the Status just for the sake of LED's it's not the best move possible.

I'm a very versatile player: I got gigs with a jazz trio, a funk-latin-pop combo and I also play at the local Hard Rock Cafe so I have to rock real hard as you can imagine. But I have other axes for that: Pedulla Rapture J2, Musicman Stingray HH, a fretless Ibanez SG500, and a Squier Vintage Jazz Bass.

You think the Sadowsky, the Roscoe or the Mike Lull could help me get thru all this with the same bass?? Can I get one of those for 3 grand? Then again, it's impossible to test either of them here in Southern Mexico. You never see any of those around.
I don't have any experience with Roscoes - I just know a lot of people swear by them (for whatever that's worth). As for Lulls and Sadowskys - for me the Sadowskys edge out the Lulls slightly for two reasons: I love the preamp in the Sadowskys and, as well made as Lulls are, Sadowskys are absolutely second-to-none in the construction department. It really depends on what sound you're going for but I think Sadowskys are very versatile basses (I'm speaking from experience strictly with their jazz models). I definitely agree with those who have suggested you buy second-hand. If, for example, you pick up a Sadowsky here on Talkbass and don't like it you can easily sell it for what you paid (minus, of course, any applicable taxes and shipping). The resale value on Sadowskys is consistently good. For $3000 you could also check out a used MTD 535 (I'm mentioning the 535 because these are my main basses). The wood combination will partially determine how "versatile" sounding the bass is but my main 535s are about as versatile as you can get in a bass.
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