Thinking of building a Warmoth bass? Ask here. - Page 5

KingOlav · #81 12-15-2012, 08:59 AM

Thanks for starting this thread; I think it will prove extremely helpful.

I'm still in the thought process of piecing together a Warmoth bass. Of course, I have a bunch of preemptive specs I could just vomit into this post, but I'll relent for now, because I have 3 very specific questions.

1. It will be a five string "Fender." 5-in-line. I haven't even started buying parts yet, but I'm already concerned about how and where I would attach the Hipshot 3-string retainer on the headstock. Also how I would go about attaching the Gotoh GB7 tuners so that they would be lined up perfectly on the back.

2. I will be using Seymour Duncan passive 5-string Jazz stacks ('single coil' humbuckers). I've heard it said that these go best with their quasi-complicated-looking EQ circuit, but I prefer to just use the standard wiring (especially since I've never wired anything before). Is this advisable? Given the pickups, should I use 500K or 250K pots?

3. Are there any specific tools I will need for this? I've been watching videos on YouTube of this funny Canadian guy called "davey4557", and I've seen him use calipers to measure screw sizes and a "spring punch". These 2 things look like they'd be very helpful. Any other ideas?

If you've read all that and have ideas for me, thanks a bundle.

Doug Parent · #82 12-15-2012, 09:39 AM

A quick reply as I have little time today.

I think the 5 inline / 20 fret Warmoth solution for the Mexican Fender is frought with issues. I don't like the B string being so close to the nut, and the string tree issue would have to be addressed with a Hipshot 4 string version Tree.

I prefer the 4+1 tuner configuration which means you are immediately in Warmoth Deluxe V territory. (different neck and body dimensions)

Not enough info on my end regarding your pickup question.

If your body choice includes rear routed cavity, don't leave it up to Warmoth as to

where to drill the control holes. It could turn out totally arbitrary, so do your layout ahead of time and let them know exactly.

Hope that helps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingOlav

Thanks for starting this thread; I think it will prove extremely helpful.

I'm still in the thought process of piecing together a Warmoth bass. Of course, I have a bunch of preemptive specs I could just vomit into this post, but I'll relent for now, because I have 3 very specific questions.

1. It will be a five string "Fender." 5-in-line. I haven't even started buying parts yet, but I'm already concerned about how and where I would attach the Hipshot 3-string retainer on the headstock. Also how I would go about attaching the Gotoh GB7 tuners so that they would be lined up perfectly on the back.

2. I will be using Seymour Duncan passive 5-string Jazz stacks ('single coil' humbuckers). I've heard it said that these go best with their quasi-complicated-looking EQ circuit, but I prefer to just use the standard wiring (especially since I've never wired anything before). Is this advisable? Given the pickups, should I use 500K or 250K pots?

3. Are there any specific tools I will need for this? I've been watching videos on YouTube of this funny Canadian guy called "davey4557", and I've seen him use calipers to measure screw sizes and a "spring punch". These 2 things look like they'd be very helpful. Any other ideas?

If you've read all that and have ideas for me, thanks a bundle.

KingOlav · #83 12-15-2012, 12:48 PM

It does; thanks for answering. What would you say are the benefits of the 4+1 headstock over the 5 in line (for example, why should the b-string be further from the nut?) Would it work to use the 4+1 neck/headstock, and then just use a bar retainer right behind the nut?

Already answered my own question on the pickups.

Doug Parent · #84 12-15-2012, 02:21 PM

Some B strings are too long for the 5 inline headstock unless you string through bridge.

Dredmahawkus · #85 12-15-2012, 03:15 PM

I have just read this whole thread....and didnt really find this answer. I am considering building a Warmoth. I know when you are done you can't sell it for close to what you put into it.....but do they feel and play like a better quality bass then a Fender deluxe. After researching all the parts I need/want. It is going to cost about the same as an American deluxe jazz. Do people who own one think theirs feels better then a Fender? At least if you for some reason do not like the feel of the Fender you can get close to your money back. Is it worth the risk?

KingOlav · #86 12-15-2012, 03:24 PM

I personally would say that if your motivation has to do with money, you may not want to build a Warmoth. It will cost not only a nice chunk of bread, but plenty of time and thought as well. I'm doing it because I know exactly what kind of bass I want, more or less. I'm just hammering out some of the mechanical kinks in the design first, but I'm definitely committed to something very specific (and very expensive by my standards lol).

Doug Parent · #87 12-15-2012, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingOlav

It does; thanks for answering. What would you say are the benefits of the 4+1 headstock over the 5 in line (for example, why should the b-string be further from the nut?) Would it work to use the 4+1 neck/headstock, and then just use a bar retainer right behind the nut?

Already answered my own question on the pickups.

When you have 5 inline, there is a limit to how long the headstock can be. So the tuners are more crowded together closer to the nut. The B string can be close enough, where some brands of strings have the silk and part of the actual string wrapped around the B string tuner, which results in breakage. Plus, the tuners on a 5 inline are smaller with smaller shafts, which make the issue worse. It's not the best design.

A bar retainer past the nut will work, or using Hipshot's 2 and 3 string retainers. Witness what Fender did from 2003-2009 on the American Deluxe V basses. Copy that and you have a good workable design.

Doug Parent · #88 12-15-2012, 06:40 PM

Picture of a Warmoth build I did using the Hipshot string tree's and a 2008 Fender American Deluxe V

Doug Parent · #89 12-15-2012, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dredmahawkus

I have just read this whole thread....and didnt really find this answer. I am considering building a Warmoth. I know when you are done you can't sell it for close to what you put into it.....but do they feel and play like a better quality bass then a Fender deluxe. After researching all the parts I need/want. It is going to cost about the same as an American deluxe jazz. Do people who own one think theirs feels better then a Fender? At least if you for some reason do not like the feel of the Fender you can get close to your money back. Is it worth the risk?

I built mine because I wanted a different neck profile and I was willing to throw some money away to try the Warmoth route. I sold all my Fenders and kept my favorite Warmoth. It plays and sounds great but the resale is crap. The 2010-2012 Fender's are great, however, they don't make a 22 fret 5 string anymore. FAIL. The 21 frets basses are excellent though. If those work for you, save the time and bread.

KingOlav · #90 12-16-2012, 04:09 AM

Thanks a ton for the explanation Doug! This is fantastic. I had also checked the Warmoth website to see what others had done, but it would also appear that most folks only like to post pictures of their bass bodies in that particular gallery o.O Colorful, sure, but the string tree info definitely isn't there.

Doug Parent · #91 12-16-2012, 06:04 AM

Glad to help.

topcat2069 · #92 12-16-2012, 08:01 AM

Just for price comparison:
Bass 1; , finished by Marty Bell, Bart pickups and pre, Takuachi bridge, real fender deluxe tuners and a "moneys no object" attitude= $1600.00

Bass 2; Body from showcase (finished) Neck from TBr (Great deal) Nordy 5.2 Pickup, John East Pre, assembled by me, electronics and final setup by pro= $1100.00

Latest Bass; 2 years of dealing to get parts, body from showcase, neck from TBr, Great luthier to tru oil the body and assemble the Bass=$800.00

The bottom line is that all three Basses are GREAT sounding players and each was worth the price.

topcat2069 · #93 12-16-2012, 08:02 AM

And the new Bass (Pickups are a Bill Lawrence P-46 and a Fender Am. Dlx P Bass 5 bridge a Bill Lawrence design)

Rocking the P-JJ and the headstock decals (From The Ray but since I ordered 10 decals it's the same on the P-JJ)

KingOlav · #94 12-17-2012, 07:50 PM

@Doug: how do you get the two string retainers to be level once you figure out their placement on the headstock?

Doug Parent · #95 12-18-2012, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingOlav

@Doug: how do you get the two string retainers to be level once you figure out their placement on the headstock?

Once you have the placement, mark a screw hole location for one of the screws only, on each retainer. Screw down each retainer, with just one screw, on one side only. Don't screw it tight, but almost. leaving for enough movement to align the retainers parallel. Gently tighten each of the two screws so they hold the position of the retainers. Stand back and eye ball it. If you can find a straight edge to align them, even better. I just eye balled it. (I have good eye balls) Stand back a few times and look at them at a distance and close up. Go drink some coffee. Come back later and look again. You'll move them up and down less than a cat hair until you just "feel" every things in the right spot. Mark the location for the 2nd screw for each retainer. Mark carefully using a marker with a long point. I used magnifying glasses to mark it.

If you aren't patient, you won't like this technique.

KingOlav · #96 12-18-2012, 06:45 PM

Thanks man. Patience does not often come easy to me, but at the same time, I'm SUPER anal about stuff like this, so I'm all for it haha. Thanks again.

KingOlav · #97 12-22-2012, 06:40 AM

Another question: is it a bad idea to make a jazz bass entirely out of maple? Would it sound terrible? I'm going for a bright sound with a lot of sustain and the neck will be all maple...but should the body also be all maple? Should it not be balanced out with another wood for a bit of a warmer tone?

Doug Parent · #98 12-22-2012, 07:07 AM

Have no experience with maple body wood. I use a Korina (mahogany family) which is tight and bright, and I love it. I think Ash is a good choice overall with maple/neck.

Rip Topaz · #99 12-22-2012, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingOlav

Another question: is it a bad idea to make a jazz bass entirely out of maple? Would it sound terrible? I'm going for a bright sound with a lot of sustain and the neck will be all maple...but should the body also be all maple? Should it not be balanced out with another wood for a bit of a warmer tone?

It'll be extremely heavy depending on the piece of maple used. I'd definitely chamber it if it were me. That said, the Steve Harris P is all maple, and it's a slamming bass. Heavy as hell, but killer tone.

Presto2112 · #**100** 12-22-2012, 11:33 PM

are they worth it? I see that even a quilt maple telecaster body is over $500. I want Geddy bass specs with a red flame top (like geddy's 2112 bass) or I'll go with a sonic blue with matching headstock like on the clockwork angels tour. Seeing how the block necks are $300-$400 without machine heads, how much would everything else be? Paint, hardware, the whole deal. I wouldn't buy pickups from them, I'd buy some Tom Brantley "Geddy style wound" pickups". Would it just be easier to buy a Geddy bass than spend $1200 to build a copy? Help Please