Thinking of building a Warmoth bass? Ask here. - Page 6

pedroims · #**101** 12-23-2012, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Presto2112

are they worth it? I see that even a quilt maple telecaster body is over $500. I want Geddy bass specs with a red flame top (like geddy's 2112 bass) or I'll go with a sonic blue with matching headstock like on the clockwork angels tour. Seeing how the block necks are $300-$400 without machine heads, how much would everything else be? Paint, hardware, the whole deal. I wouldn't buy pickups from them, I'd buy some Tom Brantley "Geddy style wound" pickups". Would it just be easier to buy a Geddy bass than spend $1200 to build a copy? Help Please

IME they are great basses , I still regret selling the last one that I owned: Black Korina biddy, wenge neck and Fralin pups. You can go to their site and use the custom builder tool to get an idea how much will cost you to build it. the main difference between a Geddy and a regular jazz is the Geddy'st neck profile, it is a very thin neck, I dont think you can buy a neck with such profile from Warmoth. A used Geddy Lee will be the cheapest way to go.

Doug Parent · #**102** 12-23-2012, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Presto2112

Would it just be easier to buy a Geddy bass than spend $1200 to build a copy? Help Please

Much easier. Building a Warmoth instrument is a project that requires patience, skill and the correct tools. It's better handing the parts over to someone who has some experience.

KingOlav · #**103** 12-23-2012, 02:44 PM

5-string p-bass split coils: I feel like they might hum a bit, since there's not an equal amount of magnetry in each half. Is this suspicion justified?

lowfreqgeek · #**104** 12-23-2012, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingOlav

5-string p-bass split coils: I feel like they might hum a bit, since there's not an equal amount of magnetry in each half. Is this suspicion justified?

No. There should be exactly the same amount of wire in each side, just 2 set fewer magnets in the "short" side.

KingOlav · #**105** 12-23-2012, 08:08 PM

Thanks! You guys are saving my life.

Marley's Ghost · #**106** 12-23-2012, 08:44 PM

I am looking to build this or a reasonable facsimile, since there is only one know to exist in the wild and there is no way I am ordering a $1900 bass from Japan.

Fender Japan 5 String Jazz Bass Left Hand Model JBV/LH

Doug Parent · #**107** 12-23-2012, 10:46 PM

20 fret lefty...I don't see why not.

Marley's Ghost · #**108** 12-24-2012, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug Parent

20 fret lefty...I don't see why not.

I'm all thumbs when it comes to Luthier stuff, so would need someone to build it too.

KingOlav · #**109** 12-25-2012, 03:01 PM

Any opinions on whether I should get 2 jazz pickups or a split P and a jazz bridge? Does it make that much of a difference?

Also, I'm thinking of going with Nordstrand for the pickups. How do they compare to, say, Seymour Duncan (with which I have some experience)?

For a reference point, from Nordstrand I'm thinking of either the NJ5FS set or the NPJ5S set.

Doug Parent · #**110** 12-25-2012, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingOlav

Any opinions on whether I should get 2 jazz pickups or a split P and a jazz bridge? Does it make that much of a difference?

Also, I'm thinking of going with Nordstrand for the pickups. How do they compare to, say, Seymour Duncan (with which I have some experience)?

For a reference point, from Nordstrand I'm thinking of either the NJ5FS set or the NPJ5S set.

Two J pickups is more focused in the lows than a P, but lacks the width and girth. Decide which is most important to you.

Both SD and Nords are great pickups. The Nordie single coils are a good choice. I have a near new set I can sell you if you like. (Fender size) PM me for details.

BIGEJ2 · #**111** 12-25-2012, 05:00 PM

I've been thinking about building a Warmoth bass for a very long time mainly because a lot of the options are not commercially available. Does anyone know an approximate cost of having one assembled? Any recommendations on who to use to assemble it?

Doug Parent · #**112** 12-25-2012, 10:26 PM

It depends if you already know exactly what parts, color, finish, etc you are going to use, or, if you need someone to basically consult with you from the ground up helping to make all the choices. Huge difference. If someone sent me every part for the bass and wanted me to do the assembly, that would be one thing. 7/10 of the time can be absorbed in the research phase.

Sycobass (Rob, Arizona Bass Co.) is a good guy and has done lots of these Warmoths, more than I have probably.

topcat2069 · #**113** 12-26-2012, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGEJ2

I've been thinking about building a Warmoth bass for a very long time mainly because a lot of the options are not commercially available. Does anyone know an approximate cost of having one assembled? Any recommendations on who to use to assemble it?

Complete assembly on my 1st bass was $225.00, that's was putting it together, wiring all the electronics and a complete set up.

2nd was (after I put the neck on and the hardware, tuners, bridge etc.) $150.00 for the electronics and complete setup (that included fret dressing...)

Both Basses had active electronics so I though installation was better left to a pro... (both in the San Diego area)

My 3d build was $200.00. including a bridge pickup route, Tru-Oil finish, and assembly . The electronics are passive and I bought a "pre wired harness" so it was an easy finish...the neck was already dressed so that wasn't needed but it also got a complete set up... ( http://kerrysguitarshop.com/ Hurst Texas)

I just add $200 to the parts cost for the final assembly and set up... all three Basses were set up great so I only needed the "personal" tweaks to make them feel like mine....

KingOlav · #**114** 12-26-2012, 02:56 PM

So I know I want my neck to be maple lined fretless, but I'm wondering if I should not get inlays, lest the fretboard wear down over the years and my slides down the neck start to sound as if they were fretted?

Basically, if the smooth sound would still be retained, I want block inlays. But I could also go with dots or no inlays if it would be better to keep the sound totally seamless.

OptimusPrime · #**115** 12-26-2012, 03:07 PM

I have a one piece swamp ash J bass body that I got from them coated in clear gloss. I've been considering sanding it down and oiling it, or some other coating that will let the wood breath better. Terrible idea?

Doug Parent · #**116** 12-26-2012, 03:13 PM

I'm traveling over the next week and unable to respond to this post for awhile, just FYI not ignoring anyone. Happy New Year everybody.

BIGEJ2 · #**117** 12-26-2012, 03:20 PM

Doug / Topcat - Thanks for your replies, they were very helpful! Figuring out what to order is the easy part. Traveling often and being a little skirmish with something like this is the difficult part.

KingOlav · #**118** 12-26-2012, 03:30 PM

Thanks for telling us Doug. Happy New Year.

KingOlav · #**119** 01-09-2013, 08:21 AM

Hey Doug, still toying around with ideas, and playing around a bit on the Warmoth custom builder. Still going with the 5-string, but I'm wanting a split p-pickup in the neck position and a jazz bridge rout in the bridge position. I seem to be able to find these options fairly easily in the Deluxe P-Bass body builder, but am I correct in my assumption that they don't make a pickguard for it? I didn't see any 5-string p-bass pickguards in the pickguard section.

Doug Parent · #**120** 01-09-2013, 09:03 AM

Funny you asked because I was just speaking to Spike yesterday about that. Correct no Deluxe P5 pickguard is available. Hopefully this will be added to their line up at some point.