Warping Warwick Custom $$ Corvette

dbassdan · #1 03-19-2013, 02:16 PM

I have a custom shop $$ that is basically unusable because of the neck moving with the slightest change in temperature, it basically needs a set up every week....can anybody give me some advice???

Ian_Flash · #2 03-19-2013, 03:32 PM

The Warwick $$ has a dual-action truss rod, meaning that it can put counter-pressure both UP (back bow) and DOWN (front bow) on the neck. This type of rod often has a "Neutral Spot" where there is little or no counter pressure in either direction, leaving the neck at the mercy of climate changes. Assuming that your truss rod is actually working and not stripped, you should check to see that it is adjusted to give the proper counter-pressure and not "Stuck In Neutral".

beggar98 · #3 03-19-2013, 03:37 PM

This is the third thread you've started about this issue. Have you contacted Warwick and/or the shop you bought the bass from?

Ian_Flash · #4 03-19-2013, 03:43 PM

Back from my bathroom break. What is the climate where you live? How far out of adjustment (clearance) does it shift? Also, unfinished necks absorb moisture more than finished necks. Do you use the Warwick Wax that should have come with the bass? This could help to seal out climate issues.

dbassdan · #5 03-19-2013, 03:55 PM

The truss rod is working perfectly, its set at a low action around 1.5mm and the neck moves that far it moves to 5mm and more. I live in australia. It is a finished neck. Ive contacted Warwick in my country and they are ignoring me and the current shop/luthier i deal with, the shop i bought it through has shut down.

punkjazzben · #6 03-19-2013, 03:57 PM

Who did you contact from Warwick in Australia? Which store did you buy it from originally?

sbpark · #7 03-19-2013, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beggar98

This is the third thread you've started about this issue. Have you contacted Warwick and/or the shop you bought the bass from?

+1. Before you go on a large forum that has a lot of exposure and start giving bad press for the manufacturer of the bass, you should have contacted them first about the issue. Stuff happens, and sometimes things get passed QC, and the company probably would take care of you. I just don't really see what you're trying to accomplish by starting a thread about the issue when you haven't stated that you have even attempted to resolve the issue with Warwick first.

Funkinthetrunk · #8 03-19-2013, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbpark

+1. Before you go on a large forum that has a lot of exposure and start giving bad press for the manufacturer of the bass, you should have contacted them first about the issue. Stuff happens, and sometimes things get passed QC, and the company probably would take care of you. I just don't really see what you're trying to accomplish by starting a thread about the issue when you haven't stated that you have even attempted to resolve the issue with Warwick first.

If you read above, he clearly states he contacted Warwick and the store he purchased this bass is no longer in business.

Ian_Flash · #9 03-19-2013, 04:08 PM

If the truss rod is working, as you say, a 3.5 mm fluctuation is not normal but not impossible. You say that the neck is finished (lacquer or poly... but even those are not impenetrable) you may be getting moisture in/out through the fretboard. Wax/seal that as well. I own several Warwicks and I use them BECAUSE of their exceptional stability and ability to set and hold a low action. Their neck woods are well-aged and chosen for the tone and stability of the species. One more question though: Is it possible that the shift is coming from the NECK JOINT and not the neck itself? Be sure that all the neck bolts are properly tightened.

Immigrant · #10 03-19-2013, 04:09 PM

I've had the same issue with other basses, all Ibanez SRs (305,405,535) and I hate constant adjusting. I ended up getting different basses.

The temp in my house varies no less than 9 degrees from coolest to warmest. That's more than some people's houses, less than others. So either:

A) Keep your temp more constant
B) Maybe try some lower tension strings. Is the coldness of the strings that causes contracting and pulling your neck to too much relief.
C) Try another bass, either borrowed or owned, with the same string type and conditions as your Warwick.
D) Start your next thread about this in the Warwick forum. The official Warwick official known as Warwick Official can officially guide you in all things Warwickian.

Good luck!

punkjazzben · #11 03-19-2013, 04:13 PM

I'm really curious to know who the OP contacted in Australia.

dbassdan · #12 03-19-2013, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian_Flash

If the truss rod is working, as you say, a 3.5 mm fluctuation is not normal but not impossible. You say that the neck is finished (lacquer or poly... but even those are not impenetrable) you may be getting moisture in/out through the fretboard. Wax/seal that as well. I own several Warwicks and I use them BECAUSE of their exceptional stability and ability to set and hold a low action. Their neck woods are well-aged and chosen for the tone and stability of the species. One more question though: Is it possible that the shift is coming from the NECK JOINT and not the neck itself? Be sure that all the neck bolts are properly tightened.

Thanks, it is a neck through through.

dbassdan · #13 03-19-2013, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by punkjazzben

Who did you contact from Warwick in Australia? Which store did you buy it from originally?

Dominant music, The bass people.

dbassdan · #14 03-19-2013, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbpark

+1. Before you go on a large forum that has a lot of exposure and start giving bad press for the manufacturer of the bass, you should have contacted them first about the issue. Stuff happens, and sometimes things get passed QC, and the company probably would take care of you. I just don't really see what you're trying to accomplish by starting a thread about the issue when you haven't stated that you have even attempted to resolve the issue with Warwick first.

The reason for starting the forum is to try and get some help? Ive contacted warwick in my country? Stuff happens??!!!!! Ive spent 5000 on a bass and cant use it???!!!

dbassdan · #15 03-19-2013, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Immigrant

I've had the same issue with other basses, all Ibanez SRs (305,405,535) and I hate constant adjusting. I ended up getting different basses.

The temp in my house varies no less than 9 degrees from coolest to warmest. That's more than some people's houses, less than others. So either:

A) Keep your temp more constant
B) Maybe try some lower tension strings. Is the coldness of the strings that causes contracting and pulling your neck to too much relief.
C) Try another bass, either borrowed or owned, with the same string type and conditions as your Warwick.
D) Start your next thread about this in the Warwick forum. The official Warwick official known as Warwick Official can officially guide you in all things Warwickian.

Good luck!

Thanks!!!!! Ive tried to keep temp more constant, lower tension strings i havent?? So its worth a try, i have another bass and have no probs with that.

punkjazzben · #16 03-19-2013, 04:36 PM

Dominant Music have always been helpful with me. Did you actually call them or just email? A guy called Michael has generally been who I've spoken to.

You can still contact Joel from The Bass People via email as they are still selling their stock off, and as far as I know their repair guy is still around.

There are plenty of other Warwick retailers around, who are supplied by Dominant, who could help you.

dbassdan · #17 03-19-2013, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by punkjazzben

Dominant Music have always been helpful with me. Did you actually call them or just email?

You can still contact The Bass People via email as they are still selling their stock off, and as far as I know their repair guy is still around.

There are plenty of other Warwick retailers around, who are supplied by Dominant, who could help you.

Matt the repair guy is gone, i emailed Dominant but so has the retailer i now deal with, who also deals with them. Thanks, but i really dont think a retailer that had nothing to do with the sale will help me??

Ian_Flash · #18 03-19-2013, 04:45 PM

Hmmmm... my bad, I'm thinking of the original $$ which were bolt-ons. OK, let's review:

3.5mm shift, truss rod appears to work, finished neck, neck-through construction...what could it be?
1. Body itself is flexing: Be sure to wax and seal neck, fretboard and body.
2. Bridge is unstable: Warwick bridges traditionally sit on a plate. Are all four adjustment screws on solid ground?
3. String tension is overpowering truss rod. Rod is working but not properly: What gauge type/strings are on it? What's the scale length? (Warwick does make some 35"s)...
4. Separation in the wood laminations: (Very doubtful)

All of these are UNUSUAL for Warwick's build quality and QC but are also indicative of improper instrument care. Even the finest instruments can face these challenges under extreme conditions. Let me know and I'll explore further.

dbassdan · #19 03-19-2013, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian_Flash

Hmmmm... my bad, I'm thinking of the original $$ which were bolt-ons. OK, let's review:

3.5mm shift, truss rod appears to work, finished neck, neck-through construction...what could it be?
1. Body itself is flexing: Be sure to wax and seal neck, fretboard and body.
2. Bridge is unstable: Warwick bridges traditionally sit on a plate. Are all four adjustment screws on solid ground?
3. String tension is overpowering truss rod. Rod is working but not properly: What gauge type/strings are on it? What's the scale length? (Warwick does make some 35"s)...
4. Separation in the wood laminations: (Very doubtful)

All of these are UNUSUAL for Warwick's build quality and QC but are also indicative of improper instrument care. Even the finest instruments can face these challenges under extreme conditions. Let me know and I'll explore further.

Neck, fretboard and body are fine, comming from my luthier.

Bridge is also fine.

Strings are elixir 130/95/75/60 but i dont think its the strings??
Neck bows between 12-15 fret, sometimes as much as 5-6 mm and that causes twist in neck between 1-3 fret.....

dbassdan · #20 03-19-2013, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian_Flash

Hmmmm... my bad, I'm thinking of the original $$ which were bolt-ons. OK, let's review:

3.5mm shift, truss rod appears to work, finished neck, neck-through construction...what could it be?
1. Body itself is flexing: Be sure to wax and seal neck, fretboard and body.
2. Bridge is unstable: Warwick bridges traditionally sit on a plate. Are all four adjustment screws on solid ground?
3. String tension is overpowering truss rod. Rod is working but not properly: What gauge type/strings are on it? What's the scale length? (Warwick does make some 35"s)...
4. Separation in the wood laminations: (Very doubtful)

All of these are UNUSUAL for Warwick's build quality and QC but are also indicative of improper instrument care. Even the finest instruments can face these challenges under extreme conditions. Let me know and I'll explore further.

I will say again though, this only happens when there is a change in temp, weather, taking it out of the house etc....