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  #1  
Old 09-28-2010, 05:15 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Michigan
warwick fortress strap lock help!

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i got a warwick fortress and just get it just to find that this bass has some kind of strap lock built in, somebody know where I can get the locks or if some other brand will fit in? I dont see how I can install some dunlops
  #2  
Old 09-28-2010, 05:17 PM
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pics would help, but they should be Dunlops (already installed and recessed) if I recall. All you need is the other half of the Dunlop straplocks.

If not recessed, and not dunlops, then schallers.
  #3  
Old 09-28-2010, 05:22 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
I have had no trouble using the straplok ends from Tobias basses (look just like the dunlops I bought) and Dunlop straploks on my Warwick basses.
  #4  
Old 09-28-2010, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedroims View Post
i got a warwick fortress and just get it just to find that this bass has some kind of strap lock built in, somebody know where I can get the locks or if some other brand will fit in? I dont see how I can install some dunlops
They should be Dunlops. If you look inside the recess, you'll see a groove running the inner circumference. This is where the strap pins "lock" into place. If you need a pair of Dunlop strapends, please let me know...I have oodles.

Riis
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  #5  
Old 09-28-2010, 05:54 PM
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thanks guys !! Dunlops match fine.. I really enjoy this bass, but action is way to high and the saddles in the bridge seems to not get any lower, is this normal on these basses ?
  #6  
Old 09-28-2010, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedroims View Post
thanks guys !! Dunlops match fine.. I really enjoy this bass, but action is way to high and the saddles in the bridge seems to not get any lower, is this normal on these basses ?
Is the brass bridge "block" set at its lowest position? The graphite saddles are individually adjustable to match your string profile with that of the fingerboard. The overall height of the whole schmear can be manipulated by loosening the middle hex screws on the block and adjusting the 4 hex screws located in the corners. Make sense?

Riis
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"20% of the money will buy you 90% of the sound..another 30% of the money will buy you another 5% of the sound..you can't buy the remaining 5% of the sound because nobody can agree about what it is."
  #7  
Old 09-28-2010, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
Is the brass bridge "block" set at its lowest position? The graphite saddles are individually adjustable to match your string profile with that of the fingerboard. The overall height of the whole schmear can be manipulated by loosening the middle hex screws on the block and adjusting the 4 hex screws located in the corners. Make sense?

Riis
thanks man, I will take a look , really appreciate all your help guys
  #8  
Old 09-28-2010, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
The overall height of the whole schmear can be manipulated by loosening the middle hex screws on the block and adjusting the 4 hex screws located in the corners.
Right... what he said. Saddles are height adjustable as well as the entire bridge "block"

I had a warwick once where the previous owner had cranked all the saddles as high as they could go (instead of raising the bridge block). IMO it's better to have the saddles as low as possible and just use them to account for fingerboard radius and string gauge, and adjust the overall height with the bridge block. That way the saddles have more contact with the bridge, better tone, sustain, etc, etc...
  #9  
Old 09-28-2010, 07:14 PM
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thanks everybody !! i was able to do all the adjustments.. this bass is amazing...love it !
  #10  
Old 09-28-2010, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pedroims View Post
thanks everybody !! i was able to do all the adjustments.. this bass is amazing...love it !
Good thing...I thought I was going to have to drive to Michigan for a hands-on. Not that I'd mind. BTW, what's for dinner?

Enjoy the lumber!

Riis
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"20% of the money will buy you 90% of the sound..another 30% of the money will buy you another 5% of the sound..you can't buy the remaining 5% of the sound because nobody can agree about what it is."
  #11  
Old 09-28-2010, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
Good thing...I thought I was going to have to drive to Michigan for a hands-on. Not that I'd mind. BTW, what's for dinner?

Enjoy the lumber!

Riis
Carne asada tacos and cerveza ...u r more than welcome to join us
  #12  
Old 09-28-2010, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedroims View Post
thanks guys !! Dunlops match fine.. I really enjoy this bass, but action is way to high and the saddles in the bridge seems to not get any lower, is this normal on these basses ?
It's a two piece bridge....the hex heads on the sides of the bridge adjust it down below the wood surface. Impossible to not get decent action with that bridge unless your neck is shot.

If you can't figure that out, take it to a shop and get them to do it.
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Warwick Club#248...Lakland OG #373
GK Club#581...Fretless Club #607
  #13  
Old 09-28-2010, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by pedroims View Post
Carne asada tacos and cerveza ...u r more than welcome to join us
Sorry, I don't speak French...but I recognize "cerveza". Much obliged and thanks for the kind offer!

Buenos noches...its past my bedtime.

Riis
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"20% of the money will buy you 90% of the sound..another 30% of the money will buy you another 5% of the sound..you can't buy the remaining 5% of the sound because nobody can agree about what it is."
  #14  
Old 12-03-2010, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
you have an excellent bass. There are a lot of downloadable helps on the Warwick Forum on everything from cleaning to setting it up. If you have questions doing anything just comment on that forum. It took several days when I got my Fortress One, but it was worth it.
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