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11-20-2012, 02:47 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip Topaz I wouldn't ask Steve this. | Well, not identical. I just want a double horn with a 34" scale and don't want a deep cut bottom horn like his other models.
I'll even settle for a single MM pickup with concentric pot Vol/Tone (will wire this aftermarket if I must). String-thru with his wood saddled bridge is fine, too.
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SPECTOR® Club #369 | Fender Owner's Club #13
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11-20-2012, 02:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Willow Street, PA | | | Your best bet is gonna be to make a drawing and send it to Steve. And then hope for the best. | 
11-20-2012, 07:47 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Austin, Texas | | With all this talk about Hypers/Hippers I couldn't resist an update on my bass blank; Hyper #1398b. I got her all cut apart last week and then this weekend I used my planer to clean and square up the neck stringers/body wings. It all went swimmingly! I was also able to cut a nice thin strip of wenge from a larger board I have to space between the body wings to make up for what was lost to the saw blade/planer and also add some dark contrast. (BTW, the JB will get bloodwood for it's filler/accent strips - the wood should come this week in the mail.) Here's what #1398b looks like as of tonight ... 
Both JB/Hyper blanks after cutting the wings free from the stringer assemblies. These show all the parts as they were originally put together by Steve. On the Hyper, note the edge of lighter walnut being next to the stringers ... 
Lower wing on the planer, getting trued up. This was the one that Steve got way off square and "inspired" me to start over! 
In this photo, I have reversed the upper body wing and placed the darker walnut edge against the neck stringers - thus making for a more attractive body IMO, while still retaining those kool knots and grain swirls. - Lovin' me some walnut! 
The other benefit of having to do all this extra work was my chance to reverse the neck stringer placement, thus making it possible to bury this knot hole within the body wings - originally this would have been up at the headstock - can you imagine? 
Glued, clamped and waiting to cure up! I modified the Hyper shape a bit, but I am not sure exactly how it will end up yet. This body style is pretty great without me mucking with it, but I wanted to see what I could do to it. (I used Hipper #1041 to get the basic body outline after Steve's got planed off, and then dinked around with the bottom) ...
__________________ WISHBASS CLUB MEMBER; #74, #549, #668, #808, #951, #962, #1041, #1180, #1398a, #1398b, #1438, #1453 & "other" Wishys - "We don't need no stinkin' trussrods!" ... Short Scale Club #257 ...
Last edited by 49sfine : 11-21-2012 at 01:46 PM.
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11-21-2012, 01:27 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boise, ID | | | Great work 48sfine! That is going to be beautiful when finished! | 
11-21-2012, 03:22 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Arnhem, Netherlands | | | neat!
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WB#1262 owner
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11-21-2012, 04:27 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Willow Street, PA | | | 49, that walnut looks sweet. Can't wait to see it with the finish. That grain should really look awesome under some TruOil. | 
11-21-2012, 04:40 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Gunks, NY | | Love what you've done with that body, 49! You're firing on all cylinders now. Yay!!!  | 
11-21-2012, 11:27 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central Manitoba Canada | | | Waiting is the hardest part
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Roger Water's P-Bass Club #12, ESP Club #99, Squire Classic Vibe Club #137, and Wishbass #1440
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11-21-2012, 12:25 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Austin, Texas | | Quote:
Originally Posted by jandscotten My wishbass in progress by Steve. | Sweet! Is that poplar wood?
__________________ WISHBASS CLUB MEMBER; #74, #549, #668, #808, #951, #962, #1041, #1180, #1398a, #1398b, #1438, #1453 & "other" Wishys - "We don't need no stinkin' trussrods!" ... Short Scale Club #257 ... | 
11-21-2012, 12:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central Manitoba Canada | | | Cherry, with purpleheart fretbord.
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Roger Water's P-Bass Club #12, ESP Club #99, Squire Classic Vibe Club #137, and Wishbass #1440
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11-23-2012, 04:38 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Arnhem, Netherlands | | It needs a little tweaking of the nut and bridge and the knobs are badly made but the sound is awesome! Who would believe a plywood bass could sound real good!
Soundwise it's a keeper but crisis is becoming strong overhere. I probably have to sell it to finish the upright bass. 
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WB#1262 owner
Last edited by MARCOvdBoogert : 11-23-2012 at 04:58 AM.
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11-23-2012, 08:05 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central Manitoba Canada | | | Okay, I still have a week, or so, before he ships it. (He's doing a bas relief of my denominational symbol on it.)
After reading the forums I'm having it shipped unfinished so that I can do that myself. Truth be told I'm getting this as a graduation present for finishing my dissertation and am not expecting to play it much...BUT I do want to break it out on the occasional worship service on a special Sunday so I want it playable (even if I can't...LOL).
So I'm concerned about all the "extra" work folks are talking about. What do I need to look for. I figured I should do this before I get it lacquered/possibly stain it once I see it live.
James
PS I've heard that putting on basic armour all under the lacquer on the purple heart will help it keep its purple?
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Roger Water's P-Bass Club #12, ESP Club #99, Squire Classic Vibe Club #137, and Wishbass #1440
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11-23-2012, 08:20 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Willow Street, PA | | | Wow do NOT do that!! Armpit All contains SILCONE, which is a mortal enemy of lacquer. | 
11-23-2012, 08:27 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central Manitoba Canada | | | Okay, what then...obi won...I'm really new at this....as in never done it before... I'm assuming Lacquer is not the problem but what can I use to uv protect the fret board to keep it purple..(thanks for the warning)
J
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Roger Water's P-Bass Club #12, ESP Club #99, Squire Classic Vibe Club #137, and Wishbass #1440
Last edited by jandscotten : 11-23-2012 at 08:31 AM.
Reason: misread previous post.
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11-23-2012, 08:36 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Willow Street, PA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by jandscotten Okay, what then...obi won...I'm really new at this....as in never done it before... I'm assuming Lacquer is not the problem but what can I use to uv protect the fret board to keep it purple..(thanks for the warning)
J | I've never had any issues with needing to add UV inhibitors for purpleheart, though I'm sure some have done it. Most of the purpleheart boards that I've finished, I've used CA glue. Protects the board nicely, can be touched up, as you can buy it anywhere. Of course, purpleheart doesn't absolutely NEED a finish.
Keep the bass out of the sun and it'll slow the fade to brown, and you may just get lucky and get a piece that doesn't turn brown. Purpleheart is very unpredictable as far as the color is concerned. | 
11-23-2012, 08:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central Manitoba Canada | | | Do you not even put lacquer or anything on your fretboard if it's purple heart. I don't plan on staining it at all, because of love the colour of it as it is.
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Roger Water's P-Bass Club #12, ESP Club #99, Squire Classic Vibe Club #137, and Wishbass #1440
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11-23-2012, 08:42 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Willow Street, PA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by jandscotten Do you not even put lacquer or anything on your fretboard if it's purple heart. I don't plan on staining it at all, because of love the colour of it as it is. | On a fretless, you'll eat through the lacquer on the surface of the board pretty quick, depending on the strings used. That's why I prefer epoxy or CA. | 
11-23-2012, 08:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central Manitoba Canada | | | Okay would mind explaining this to me. What is CA? And when you say epoxy is that a spray, brush, wipe-on or what? Would it be helpful for me to tape off the fretboard then can I use Lacquer on the rest. I'm looking for that glossy look.
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Roger Water's P-Bass Club #12, ESP Club #99, Squire Classic Vibe Club #137, and Wishbass #1440
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11-23-2012, 08:53 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cary NC | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by jandscotten Okay would mind explaining this to me. What is CA? And when you say epoxy is that a spray, brush, wipe-on or what? Would it be helpful for me to tape off the fretboard then can I use Lacquer on the rest. I'm looking for that glossy look. | CA is super glue. How they work with it as an epoxy type substance is beyond me! Looking forward to hearing from them!
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New York Bass Works (NYBW) Club Member #1 (Founder). Tricked-Out Squier Club Member #222. Official ATK Club member #211.
"Give me a gig!" -J. Pastorious
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11-23-2012, 08:58 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Willow Street, PA | | | I've never done an epoxy board myself but I've played them and I like the feel. CA is probably the easiest.
Yes, tape the board off before lacquer. Your best bet is to finish the board first, then tape off and do the rest of the bass. The tape won't hurt the CA, but trying to apply CA to the board after lacquer is asking for a MESS. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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