Wishbass Club Part 11 - 'When you Wish upon a Mwaaah!' - Page 33

**jbybj** · #**641** 01-02-2013, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARCOvdBoogert

well done!! Just curious, you trimmed the body drastically. Is it a neck diver now or is the balance still ok?

No dive at all. The upper horn has a nice reach and the bubinga is pretty hefty.

**jbybj** · #**642** 01-02-2013, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassbenj

I agree. Superb looking bass. But what is that Wish-tribute control plate? or Wait, is that the original? I guess I can see the philosphical justification for leaving it ratty that way.

I simply lack patience. I cut the new cover with a dremel, then smoothed it out with a sanding attachment. I really need to finish it on the belt sander but I was losing the light and had to clean up. I wasn't going to let a squirrelly cover keep me from assembling the bass.

After a while I will either get used to it, or it will start to bug me and I will pull out the belt sander.

I use the inherent roughness of wishbasses to rationalize my lack of desire to make them too pretty :-)

morgansterne · #**643** 01-03-2013, 10:50 AM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wishbass-Lob...item3ccd9bad08

This isn't my sale and I'm not trying to promote it! Just wondering, based on the slanted bridge. . . is this a multi-scale, unlined fretless??
that seems just impossible to learn to play proficiently on such a beast!

**jbybj** · #**644** 01-03-2013, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by morgansterne

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wishbass-Lob...item3ccd9bad08

This isn't my sale and I'm not trying to promote it! Just wondering, based on the slanted bridge. . . is this a multi-scale, unlined fretless??
that seems just impossible to learn to play proficiently on such a beast!

Wishbasses are typically a 34" scale. The slanted bridge is to accommodate optimal intonation. I think it's the variation in string gauge that requires slightly different lengths for best possible intonation.

Learning fretless is all about ear, muscle memory, and for some of us, markers and guides.

ScottGee · #**645** 01-04-2013, 12:33 PM

Need everyone to go to this site and rate the wishbass AND leave a comment. I was on my cell phone and my fat fingers pushed on too many numbers and it rated the Wonderflu Wish at a 3. Please go rate so it can move up in the rankings. Here's the link:
http://qratesearch.com/c/4109/Wishbass/Bass+Guitar

Thunderitter · #**646** 01-04-2013, 05:17 PM

My 'B' Fantasy met with a planer yesterday:

Next is routing for a truss rod and then deciding on what sort of fretboard to add. (It was a purpleheart board).

Rip Topaz · #**647** 01-04-2013, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

My 'B' Fantasy met with a planer yesterday:

Next is routing for a truss rod and then deciding on what sort of fretboard to add. (It was a purpleheart board).

Nice. If you're adding frets, I'd go with flamed maple. Go Ritter-ish with it. It IS a Fantasy, after all.

49sfine · #**648** 01-04-2013, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

My 'B' Fantasy met with a planer yesterday:

Next is routing for a truss rod and then deciding on what sort of fretboard to add. (It was a purpleheart board).

TR; VERY interested is seeing how you route your truss rod channel and what kind of rod you use! I am facing all of this on the walnut Hyper blank and I'm kind of just hovering around it not wanting to make a mistake. Since the Hyper is going to be a fretted bass, I'm thinking one of those spokewheel rods from StewMac, but it's still undecided. Any imput would be greatly appreciated! Meanwhile, I am working on the JB blank because it will be fretless, and thus mucho easier to lay out. Both are to be 32" scale although I was also considering 33" for the Hyper. Any thoughts?

Thunderitter · #**649** 01-05-2013, 07:28 AM

I'll be using a StewMac hot-rod but I'm not sure which one at this time! I need to chose whether to go with the adjustment at the nut or bridge end of the board and part of that decision is linked to what I decided to do with the headstock. Right now I'm leaning more to the bridge side adjustment and then the choice will be bullet or wheel, but we'll see!

Rip Topaz · #**650** 01-05-2013, 07:36 AM

Keep in mind that the spoke wheel type truss rod needs a bit more clearance at the body end to install. It might now matter, but be aware of it. I've run into a couple of snags with the spoke type.

49sfine · #**651** 01-05-2013, 09:13 AM

Thanks guys! Guess I'll keep posted on TR's website for more photos of the rod channel and final rod choice. I'm also wondering about the length of those rods for a 32" scaler. I suppose it will be fine at 24"...

On another topic - I made progress today with the newly arrived cedar Lobe #1438. And, my new sanding attachment for the Safe-T-Planer got here and I wanted to try it out. I loaded some 80 grit sandpaper on it and successfully leveled the top and back of the Lobe - works like a charm! Since the cedar is so soft, I wanted to avoid using the planer blades and this sander is just the beesnees! I also decided to remove the original fingerboard due to insufficienct glue/bonding to the neck stringers. Geez, this thing was barely on there (the worst one of any Wishbass I've seen) and I couldn't see trying to back fill it with epoxy as deep as the gaps were. So, I plan to install a pre-slotted yellowheart board I got off Ebay which I think will look pretty kool on this bass and go well with the dark brown cedar body. I'll veneer the slots in a dark wood and put a radius on it. It's not as long as the old one, but should look okay anyway - not sure yet what shape to do on the end of it though. Here's how that all looked last night and earlier today ...

Old fingerboard coming off - it didn't take much coaxing either ...

Here's the new yellowheart FB laying next to the cleaned up neck stringers ...

New sanding attachment for my drill press Safe-T-Planer just a leveling away = works awesome!

Trademark scallop into the butt end of the bass although I did a minimal cut due to weight. (This body is so light as it is) ...

MARCOvdBoogert · #**652** 01-07-2013, 07:40 AM

wanna show you what I did to the kewelish this weekend. Trussrod install!
1)

2)

3)

4)

Now I had to find out how to hide the nut........after some trials and error I came up with this: a removable nice and snug insert!

nagarjuna · #**653** 01-07-2013, 10:23 AM

Hey 49! Perfect solution. Always happens like that with you, huh. That bass is gonna look killer! I'm sure of it!

MARCOvdBoogert · #**654** 01-08-2013, 03:01 AM

final pic of the kewelish. Next bass hopefully a original wish. Not only a wish design!

eli · #**655** 01-08-2013, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARCOvdBoogert

final pic of the kewelish. Next bass hopefully a original wish. Not only a wish design!

Marco, this is absolutely...

KEWEL!

sorry, somebody had to say it

**jbybj** · #**656** 01-08-2013, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARCOvdBoogert

Now I had to find out how to hide the nut........after some trials and error I came up with this: a removable nice and snug insert!

The best truss rod cover yet!

49sfine · #**657** 01-08-2013, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbybj

The best truss rod cover yet!

Agreed! Nice work Marco - keep it up.

Rip Topaz · #**658** 01-09-2013, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbybj

The best truss rod cover yet!

+1.

MARCOvdBoogert · #**659** 01-09-2013, 04:18 AM

thanks guys!

jandscotten · #**660** 01-09-2013, 10:58 AM

Guess what came in the mail today!

#1440

Now to make it mine.

A little scary but can't wait.