Wishbass Club Part 11 - 'When you Wish upon a Mwaaah!' - Page 34

**jbybj** · #**661** 01-09-2013, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandscotten

Guess what came in the mail today!

Now to make it mine.

A little scary but can't wait.

Love the standard body shape, and the purpleheart board looks cool. Enjoy.

Zombierockstar · #**662** 01-09-2013, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandscotten

Guess what came in the mail today!

#1440

Now to make it mine.

A little scary but can't wait.

Awesome! Can't wait to check out the end result!

jandscotten · #**663** 01-09-2013, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombierockstar

Awesome! Can't wait to check out the end result!

What I have on deck....suggestions are welcome....is I want to route out the chalice to make it a true bas relief, stain inside the chalice a cherry red, and then a lacquer glossy finish. Needs sanding to smooth first though. I want to leave everything natural except for the chalice so that it pops.

question for anyone to weigh in:
Because the reality is that this is a trophy piece as much as anything and won't get a lot of heavy play (this could change

), I am not planing on putting any epoxy or such on the fretboard. BUT would it be okay to lacquer it as well so that I can get that high gloss finish?

Also I see a hairline crack in the head and want to be careful of cracking it. Is there anything to do to strengthen it other than caution?

Oh and can I have a number or do I just use the one on the back of the bass?

Zombierockstar · #**664** 01-09-2013, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandscotten

Oh and can I have a number or do I just use the one on the back of the bass?

Yes. The number on the back of your bass. Welcome #1440

49sfine · #**665** 01-09-2013, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandscotten

What I have on deck....suggestions are welcome....is I want to route out the chalice to make it a true bas relief, stain inside the chalice a cherry red, and then a lacquer glossy finish. Needs sanding to smooth first though. I want to leave everything natural except for the chalice so that it pops.

question for anyone to weigh in:
Because the reality is that this is a trophy piece as much as anything and won't get a lot of heavy play (this could change

), I am not planing on putting any epoxy or such on the fretboard. BUT would it be okay to lacquer it as well so that I can get that high gloss finish?

Also I see a hairline crack in the head and want to be careful of cracking it. Is there anything to do to strengthen it other than caution?

Oh and can I have a number or do I just use the one on the back of the bass?

Nice bass!

As far as your questions go, what I do if it were mine is leave the FB alone in terms of finish, unless you do epoxy it. If you really work at it you can get that purpleheart to polish out a lot and it will look great. I sand mine out beyond 2000 grit and they look/feel wonderful - not as shiney as if it had finish on it, but way better than just a nominal smoothing will do. All of my FBs then get fingerboard oil, but nothing else (at least that is the conventional wisdom on that issue, but honestly, I do not know all the reasons why).

On the headstock crack, I would NOT leave it alone hoping it will just never get worse. I would get it to actually separate and then glue and clamp it now, before you ever fine sand and apply finish. Then it's fixed, it's over and done with and you can move on and not worry about it. Just my 2 cents.

- Looking forward to more updates from you on #1440!

jandscotten · #**666** 01-09-2013, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 49sfine

Nice bass!

As far as your questions go, what I do if it were mine is leave the FB alone in terms of finish, unless you do epoxy it. If you really work at it you can get that purpleheart to polish out a lot and it will look great. I sand mine out beyond 2000 grit and they look/feel wonderful - not as shiney as if it had finish on it, but way better than just a nominal smoothing will do. All of my FBs then get fingerboard oil, but nothing else (at least that is the conventional wisdom on that issue, but honestly, I do not know all the reasons why).

On the headstock crack, I would NOT leave it alone hoping it will just never get worse. I would get it to actually separate and then glue and clamp it now, before you ever fine sand and apply finish. Then it's fixed, it's over and done with and you can move on and not worry about it. Just my 2 cents.

- Looking forward to more updates from you on #1440!

thanks, I was hoping you'd chime in! So when you say FB oil what do you mean?

5108audio · #**667** 01-09-2013, 02:29 PM

So I've finally gotten around to recording with #156. It's taken waaaaayyy too long, but so far it's sounding great. I'm producing a cd for a friend and have used the fretless (#1113) on one track and my fretted (#156) on another. Only three songs down so far, but more to come. I'm tracking the bass parts here, but adding real drums at a propper studio. Since propper studios require propper funding, the project is moving at a snails pace. Once I have finished tracks I'll be sure to post some clips.

I've really been enjoying all the refin work lately. Keep it up!

ps - Anyone else's TalkBass app acting up lately? I've deleted and re-downloaded and its still bugging out. Just hope it's not me and that it gets fixed soon. I live on my phone...

Zombierockstar · #**668** 01-09-2013, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5108audio

So I've finally gotten around to recording with #156. It's taken waaaaayyy to long, but so far it's sounding great. I'm producing a cd for a friend and have used the fretless (#1113) on one track and my fretted (#156) on another. Only three songs down so far, but more to come. I'm tracking the bass parts here, but adding real drums at a propper studio. Since propper studios require propper funding, the project is moving at a snails pace. Once I have finished tracks I'll be sure to post some clips.

I've really been enjoying all the refin work lately. Keep it up!

ps - Anyone else's TalkBass app acting up lately? I've deleted and re-downloaded and its still bugging out. Just hope it's not me and that it gets fixed soon. I live on my phone...

Hey 5108! Can't wait to hear the recordings. Keep us posted.

My BassTalk app was acting up but it looks they just updated it.

Take care.

**jbybj** · #**669** 01-09-2013, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandscotten

Also I see a hairline crack in the head and want to be careful of cracking it. Is there anything to do to strengthen it other than caution?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 49sfine

Nice bass!

On the headstock crack, I would NOT leave it alone hoping it will just never get worse. I would get it to actually separate and then glue and clamp it now, before you ever fine sand and apply finish. Then it's fixed, it's over and done with and you can move on and not worry about it. Just my 2 cents.

Another consideration for the headstock. A hairline crack may likely be just a small separation, and not easily "opened up" without creating undue damage. If it is indeed the type of crack that doesn't move, for example, doesn't compress when clamped, or separate when pushed, you could just drip some epoxy in the crack, or fill it with wood epoxy. This would stabilize, and smooth it out visually.

Have fun, JBY

49sfine · #**670** 01-09-2013, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandscotten

thanks, I was hoping you'd chime in! So when you say FB oil what do you mean?

After trying out different things, I finally bought some fingerboard oil from StewMac. The bottle actually is labeled "Fingerboard Oil" and goes on wet but dissipates over time. When first applied it darkens the wood but as it soaks in and then eventually evaporates, it is lighter in color. During a refin I will apply more than one coat as a lot of the fingerboards I've come across are really dry. I try not to apply too much at one time though and I apply the oil to my rag, not directly to the wood, quickly applying up and down the entire board and then lightly wiping off the excess with a paper towel or such. The idea is to not let it pool up (or anything like that) and have a chance to soak into the wood unevenly. Since this will be the only sizeable area on the bass that is not sealed over with a finish material, you don't want to do anything to it to make it react negatively. I say this because I had two Wishbasses I refinished (early efforts) that I got way too much oil on the boards and it bowed the necks enough for me to notice it and email Steve! They did relax over time, but it freaked me out, needless to say. I was also using Dr. Duck's oil at the time, which may have been part of the problem.

On the crack - I should have been more specific, and yes, JBY nailed it; whether or not there is any movement is the key. (If it appears to be just a gap in the glue joint, that might be a completely different situation from a hairline stress crack that might separate altogether over time.) I have refinished 2 Wishs now that had these little fine cracks in between stringers that I did not attend to, hoping they would not move or get worse. Well, before it was all said and done, and with all the handling you have to do to a bass to get it refinished, guess what? The hairline cracks gave way and became full fledged separations (turns out these were actual stress cracks, probably from shipping mistreatment). Still not too big a deal, but a drag if not caught prior to applying finish. So, it really all depends on what the crack looks like, where it is and if it moves or not. Could be that nothing more will come of it. Hard to say without seeing it in person, really.

jandscotten · #**671** 01-09-2013, 10:54 PM

Thanks for the replies. Yep it's an actual separation, not much but it's there. right in the center of the top of the head-stock.

So my plan is to use some glue in it, being careful not to cause more damage getting the glue in, I want to carve out the chalice and stain it, then I'll sand the whole thing then I plan to finish it.

Thanks for the heads up on the oil.
J

loopee · #**672** 01-10-2013, 12:37 AM

Ok, after reading all the info on these Wish basses and about ready to get one.....
Shortscale 30"
very lightweight
will have to send it to someone to refinish it for me

How should I go about it? Contact 49er or Thunderritter first then contact Steve to build it and send it to (whoever I get to refinish it)?

MARCOvdBoogert · #**673** 01-10-2013, 02:54 AM

You can only build a hot rod after you bought a car.........

5108audio · #**674** 01-10-2013, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loopee

Ok, after reading all the info on these Wish basses and about ready to get one.....
Shortscale 30"
very lightweight
will have to send it to someone to refinish it for me

How should I go about it? Contact 49er or Thunderritter first then contact Steve to build it and send it to (whoever I get to refinish it)?

I like your idea of contacting the refin guy before talking to Steve. That way, your ideas influence the bass and not the other way around. But beware 'custom' orders...

As far as the refin, both TR and 49 do great work. I had both of my Wishbasses refinished by TR. He lives about an hour from me, so it was nice to be able to meet in person and look at the bass in question over lunch and a beer. I actually contacted TR when I first found Wishbasses on eBay. Since then he has been an invaluable resource for a newbie bass player such as me. Of course, his refin work speaks for itself.

So if you are close to either of these guys, I'd let that determine who you use. Otherwise, flip a coin!

Thunderitter · #**675** 01-10-2013, 07:45 AM

Some additional inputs:

The headstock separation is something I've seen a bit with later serial number basses and as 49sfine says it's quite easy to do. Just make sure you use plenty of Titebond and use something like a paint scraper to open the gap. To get the glue in - a lollipop stick or similar will be the ideal applicator. On the repairs I've done I'll open up the whole join, apply plenty of Titebond and then clamp well overnight. You can wipe away the excess glue with a cloth or rag and don't worry too much about any more seeping out as once the join is fully set you can scrape/sand away any remaining glue marks.

On the purpleheart fretboard, I echo what 49sfine says re the sanding/polishing/oiling, particular as it's purpleheart, which is going to be very hard. You also don't need to go upward of 2000grit to get a stable finish. If you got to 400 grit and then finish with some 000 and then 0000 steel wool you'll get a nice finish. The 0000 will come in handy to buff out any string marking you will get over time. I've said this before but epoxy is not for the faint of heart and unlike anything else connected with a Wishbass refin takes a lot of practice/patience to get right. Lacquer or is similar is going to start wearing off the board as soon as you start playing and look really bad.

I've had quite a few folks contact me ahead of placing an order with Steve. I'm always more than happy to give any advice/suggestions/etc. whether or not you are going leave the bass as is, refin yourself or send it my way. Interestingly in all the Wishbasses I've owned and refin'd for myself or others I've never done a custom order. I prefer to wait it out until I see Steve selling a bass I like the look of. Obviously with a 30" bass you'll be waiting a while! I've refinished one 30" bass - a five stringer that turned out real nice and sounded really good!

I should add that unless its a time issue, my first recommendation to anyone is to try tidying up your bass yourself. Basic high school shop sanding skills and a desire to give it a go are all you require. I've also walked quite a few folks through their own refins step by step. I think I get as much satisfaction doing that as I do doing the refin myself! One guy even went as far post his refin of re-doing all the wooden floors in his house and doing some furniture restoration! To have lit the fire there was awesome! TruOil definItely has it's limitations for any production type work but for one off of low volume it's wonderful stuff!

jandscotten · #**676** 01-10-2013, 08:18 AM

thanks thunder,

Okay next question then it's on to sanding. I would like to take the Chalice which is just outlined and take the large part down lower, a true bas relief, then I'm going to stain it dark cherry and leave the rest of the bass natural. However, I do not have a Dremil, and am reluctant to buy one for just one project. Not to mention that it worries me that I'd screw up and go too deep or cut off a part of the St. Andrew's cross. So could I do that using a 60 or 80 grit sandpaper then smooth it. It will need to go down about 1/4 inch.

Thunderitter · #**677** 01-10-2013, 09:06 AM

If I understand you correctly to accomplish what you describe with the chalice you are going to need to rout that area out, which as you say is going to require a Dremmel or plunge router and ideally a template for a good outline.

As an aside, what is the story/idea behind the chalice?

jandscotten · #**678** 01-10-2013, 10:17 AM

Okay, I planed on using the outline that was already cut. But I'll look at borrowing/getting a Dremmel with a plunge router. I figure if I go really slow and use a plunge router attachment on the Dremmel I should be okay.

The chalice w/ the St. Andrew's cross is our denominational symbol and this bass was a graduation (Doctor of Ministry) present to myself. It is as much a trophy for me as anything.

49sfine · #**679** 01-10-2013, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loopee

How should I go about it? Contact 49er or Thunderritter first then contact Steve to build it and send it to (whoever I get to refinish it)?

lopee: Thanks for your interest. Personally, if this is your first Wishbass, I would want it shipped to you first, prior to sending it out for a refin. I would want you to at least inspect it, play it, and just handle the bass for a couple of weeks before sending it off. My past experience with this (again, if you are a first time owner) is that too much can get lost in translation, so to speak, if you have not had a chance to get to know your Wishbass before work begins on it. (Also, as TR has stated, you might want to do some of the work yourself, or even all of it.) I realize that this will entail additional shipping charges, but it is worth it, especially when it comes to trying to figure out certain mods, changes or pre-existing issues on your Wishbass with the refinisher. Plus, it will really, really help you appreciate your finished bass more if you have personally experienced it in it's orginal state! If I can help further in any way, please feel free to let me know.

Upstate SC Bass · #**680** 01-10-2013, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loopee

Ok, after reading all the info on these Wish basses and about ready to get one.....
Shortscale 30"
very lightweight
will have to send it to someone to refinish it for me

How should I go about it? Contact 49er or Thunderritter first then contact Steve to build it and send it to (whoever I get to refinish it)?

I have Wishbasses reworked by both TR and 49s --- both are very detail oriented and take great pride in quality and do great work.

I can recommend them both from firsthand experience!!!

Tom