Wishbass Club Part 11 - 'When you Wish upon a Mwaaah!'

[MARCOvdBoogert]

Thanks for the ideas! BTW, I love your hollow body drawings. Can't wait to see what you are going to do with that!

Thanks for that. I don't know if I will post it here. Actually it's pretty far from a wish although I have good contact with Steve about my designs and builds. Don't be surprised when he will build something in the future I started!
But maybe I will post it here!
I build it the wish way. Clean and simple art and crafts style!

[BillyB_from_LZ]

Do you think the neck construction of a Wishbass (without truss rod) would withstand the tension of 10 or 15 strings (5 string bass with one or two octave strings per bass string)?

[Rip Topaz]

Originally Posted by BillyB_from_LZ

Do you think the neck construction of a Wishbass (without truss rod) would withstand the tension of 10 or 15 strings (5 string bass with one or two octave strings per bass string)?

Maybe, but you're looking at an aircraft carrier of a fretboard with a huge neck behind it.

[jbybj]

Originally Posted by 49sfine

Okay, I need some imput from you out there. I have to make some decisions about Nemo #549

If you are considering taking out the "ugly" rod, instead of filling the channel with a carbon rod or wood, replace it with a nice dual action Hot-rod. You can recess the adjustment nut into the headstock, making it look nicer, It will likely function better than what's in there, and this would even allow you to keep it fretted and maybe trim down the neck. Maybe the reason it cracked was because the thick neck was too resistant to bending. If you want a truss rod to do it's thing, it would be easier if the neck was cut down, made more flexible.

You could make it a Jazz bass neck with a Wishbass headstock.

You indicate that you think the repair was done well. If so, it will be strong and not cause future problems. I say, keep it fretted and put a new rod in....... FWIW

JBY

[BillyB_from_LZ]

Originally Posted by Rip Topaz

Maybe, but you're looking at an aircraft carrier of a fretboard with a huge neck behind it.

The nut width on a Hamer 12-string is 1.9 in...a little wider than a typical 4. A 15-string wouldn't be more than perhaps 2-1/4 or 2-3/8 in.

But it would be a log behind the fretboard!

[Thunderitter]

Originally Posted by bootsox

the difference is a streamer or a spector is CNC cut out of nicer woods than lower-priced instruments, uses better hardware than lower priced instruments, and made to a tighter tolerance than lower priced instruments. You're paying for consistency when you buy a high-end manufactured bass.

Play a wishbass and you'll understand, about half of them leave the workshop completely unplayable.

This sort of quote always irks me! What other uniformed quotes do it for you?

[BillyB_from_LZ]

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

This sort of quote always irks me! What other uniformed quotes do it for you?

I liked your response in the original thread...and the photo too!

I've played five; two I purchased from Steve, one that he shipped to me by mistake (which I really, really liked) and the pair that Eli owns/owned. They all played just fine.

Did you look at the poster's profile? There is mention of a Peavey T40 and Ibanez Soundgear, but I'm not sure if he has any personal experience with a Wishbass or any other hand-made basses.

[jandscotten]

Okay, I'm back. with an update
Neck is done. took a lot of trial and error but I got the hump and buzz out.

Stained the chalice (not as red has I was expecting but I like how it turned out. Less stated than the red would have been.)

I'm begining to prep to oil it. (I've decided to not put anything but oil on it.) Since I can't get tru-oil in Canada I'm going with a tung oil. Yes that means a lot longer cure time but I'll just take my time.

So my question is why kind of spray sealant does Steve use? And what is the best way to know you've got it off, besides shine. It doesn't seem very thick on the outside and I don't want to have to sand half the bass off to get it off.

Thanks.

(I know I could probably PM these questions but I figured I'm not the only clueless noob out there.)

[Rip Topaz]

If you can't get TruOil have you tried Formby's? It's a wipe on finish but has a MUCH faster dry time than tung oil.

[jandscotten]

Unfortunatly no.

[Thunderitter]

Originally Posted by jandscotten

...So my question is why kind of spray sealant does Steve use? And what is the best way to know you've got it off, besides shine. It doesn't seem very thick on the outside and I don't want to have to sand half the bass off to get it off.

Sanding is your friend!

Sand all the bass and you'll find you will get a way better finish. You can use a stripper to take the lacquer off but that will be way messier than going the sandpaper route. Start with 80 grit and work up to at least 220, ideally take it up to 400.

[bassbenj]

Originally Posted by Rip Topaz

If you can't get TruOil have you tried Formby's? It's a wipe on finish but has a MUCH faster dry time than tung oil.

I've used Formby's but truthfully I like Minwax Tung OIl wiping varnish much better. The "wiping" variety is MUCH thinner than normal minwax tung oil varish (which is very similar to Formby's). That means to build a nice thick finish takes LOTS of coats with sanding/steelwool in between, but does a GREAT job. I did a cheapo Strat body from Rondo's surplus sales like that and it came out magnificient.

Normally, I use the minwax rub-on plyurethane version because it's more resistant to scratches and wear than the the tung oil type, but the tung oil version is especially great if you are going for a duller less finished satin wood look.

I've not used tru-oil yet so I can't give a compare with that, but I do intend to do my first Wish refurb job in tru-oil just as a nod to the tradition of tru-oil found here. So until then, this is all I know.

[jandscotten]

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

Sanding is your friend!

Sand all the bass and you'll find you will get a way better finish. You can use a stripper to take the lacquer off but that will be way messier than going the sandpaper route. Start with 80 grit and work up to at least 220, ideally take it up to 400.

That's what I've started with, but is there a sure fire way to know you've taken off enough that the lacquer is gone?

[Rip Topaz]

Yeah, if its shiny, you're not done yet.

[49sfine]

Originally Posted by jandscotten

So my question is what kind of spray sealant does Steve use? And what is the best way to know you've got it off, besides shine. It doesn't seem very thick on the outside and I don't want to have to sand half the bass off to get it off.

I believe he uses some garden variety spray can lacquer. He doesn't put much on, so it's not a big deal to remove. Plus, as you sand on it, the darker, shiny areas still left will show you where you have low spots, etc, so it's a nice visual guide that way (especially on the neck). When the bass is all a nice, dull, wooden 'color', you're done.

Sanding is our secret weapon in a way. Because of Steve's desire to avoid too much of it, we get our Wishbasses at ridiculously low prices! Think about that for a minute ... Besides, it forces us into perhaps working on them ourselves which results in a connection with the instrument we might otherwise have missed. There is actually no substiture for it, on more than one level, so enjoy ...

[justaguyfromkc]

49, I have no doubt that you could do any of those things with your skill and experience. The real question, then, is which option leaves you with the most time to dedicate toward other Wishbass refins/repairs, etc. (and provide more Wishpr0n for the rest of us)?

The most original way would be to separate the body wings and order a new neck assembly from Wish and go from there, and it would save you a lot of time.

The bolt-on option seems like the best and most practical idea after that since it bypasses dealing with the cracks and wounded headstock and whatever that may have caused those things to occur.

[nagarjuna]

49, I would make a new neck for that bass. This way you will learn how to do that. Perfect opportunity, actually. Bolt on. Maybe even your own new design for a headstock.

[49sfine]

Wow, I'm surprided at how many of you have suggested the bolt-on neck idea. Very unWishy, if I do say so myself, but I get it. Actually, changing to a bolt-on neck is something I know I won't do on this one. Not only have I never done one before, but I really want to keep this as 'Wishbass' as possible while still making some welcome improvements. At this point I am gravitating towards options #3 and #6. One I thing do know I want to do though, is remove the existing truss rod, even if I cut off the body wings and replace the neck block. I just want the experience of doing that and also seeing what all of it looks like once the truss rod channel filler strip is removed. I think it will prove to be valuable towards future repairs on other Wishbasses, especially ones that might belong to others.

JBY: I too, thought about the idea of upgrading the truss rod, but frankly, I am scared to ever try to move this neck again with a rod of any kind. That sort of eliminates certain choices for sure. Your idea of slimming down the neck to make it more truss rod friendly does have merit though!

JUSTAGUYFROMKC: Replacing the neck block idea is good, but I would not have Steve make me one even though that would keep it all the most original, for sure. The reasons I wouldn't are because if I make it myself, I can get a closer match to the existing woods than Steve will give me and the glue seams will be tighter and more consistent. As far as my 'experience' goes, I suppose if I really had a lot of that, I wouldn't have to ask for help!

NAGARJUNA: I know that learning how to make bolt on necks is an important skill to learn and it is on the list! I just don't think this is the project for that since as an early fretted Wishbass, I want to keep it a Wishbass, so to speak. I do have an early '60's violin bass body(only) which is minus the neck which I plan to build, so that will probably be my first foray into the world of neck pockets, heels, etc. I still have to build my two (Wish)bass blanks before I venture too far out, so a new bass build with a bolt on neck is still about 3 projects out! On the headstock design - I'm a little intimidated about that nor do I have any real ideas yet. Gosh, is there anything that hasn't been done already?! The encouragment is much appreciated though.

Many thanks to those of you who chimed in on this! I welcome any other comments or ideas any of the rest of you might have - don't be shy ...

On another note, I started to reassemble the Mando bass this weekend - whoa, it's been forever with that one, mostly due to having other refins to complete. I did just notice some funkiess with the finish on the top though, so it's back into the spray tent for some touch-ups before I get it all back together. The tuning machines are on it though!! Here's proof ...





I know you're probably wondering why I don't have black tuners on this headstock, but the tailpiece is a very new and shiny chrome trapeze unit and I thought it should all match, Besides, I can always change them out later, right? ...

[jumbodbassman]

Originally Posted by MARCOvdBoogert

though choice.
Personally I would chop the neck and install a bolt on new one. But in your multiple choice it's hard. Actually you don't have a clue why it's cracked? To much tension on the rod? Weak neck?
Maybe an adjustable rod is really needed here. One thing is sure for me. Make it fretless!!

neck was a ups or fedex casualty. Bought bass off of EBAY. Bass showed up with neck snapped. sent back to Steve. he repaired, wouldnt refund my money plus i was out of freight to ship back. Per EBAY now he doesn't even guarantee but still continues to just toss in a box with junk in it as protection.

[wave rider]

Lefty SIXer alert...!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lefty-Wishba...item1c2fe4384a

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