Would this neck be considered quartersawn?

[sven kalmar]

lucky then i guess...well the bass is very nice indeed.

[Stone Soup]

My Stingray5 looks like it has a flatsawn neck. Flatsawn boards can resemble that grain pattern, as well. It just depends on what part of the tree the cut came from.

I've owned plenty of basses with flatsawn necks, over the years. It is said that flatsawn necks are more stable. I can't say I've ever noticed a difference in stability. I live in a climate that requires biannual truss rod adjustments, regardless of the grain. I think quartersawn is a prettier choice for a maple neck. Flatsawn is fine for rosewood boards.

EDIT: I meant to say quartersawn necks are said to be more stable.

[RaginRog]

Originally Posted by j.kernodle

the one in my pic is my lakland 4-94.

Niiiice. Great basses.

[RaginRog]

Originally Posted by Stone Soup

My Stingray5 looks like it has a flatsawn neck. Flatsawn boards can resemble that grain pattern, as well. It just depends on what part of the tree the cut came from.

I've owned plenty of basses with flatsawn necks, over the years. It is said that flatsawn necks are more stable. I can't say I've ever noticed a difference in stability. I live in a climate that requires biannual truss rod adjustments, regardless of the grain. I think quartersawn is a prettier choice for a maple neck. Flatsawn is fine for rosewood boards.

I've been fortunate and have never had a problem. My flat sawn Fender necks have all been good to me.

[RaginRog]

Originally Posted by sven kalmar

lucky then i guess...well the bass is very nice indeed.

Thanks again Sven.

[Stone Soup]

Originally Posted by RaginRog

I've been fortunate and have never had a problem. My flat sawn Fender necks have all been good to me.

EDIT: I meant to say quartersawn necks are said to be more stable.

[sven kalmar]

yes, should be stiffer i guess. i have made a few greenlandpaddles. grain orientation is important there too.if you want it stiff or with a bit flex..

[AltGrendel]

FWIW, I have a Warmoth neck they classified as quartersawn and it has the same grain angle as your neck.

[steve f]

Originally Posted by Stone Soup

EDIT: I meant to say quartersawn necks are said to be more stable.

I've read Roger Sadowsky quoted as saying that he thought flatsawn maple necks were a bit more stable than quartersawn...

I think the rationale is that the truss rod can control front-back stability but wood grain primarily is responsible for side-side stability, hence flatsawn is more stable (or something like that).

[Stone Soup]

Originally Posted by steve f

I've read Roger Sadowsky quoted as saying that he thought flatsawn maple necks were a bit more stable than quartersawn...

Well, that trumps my info then.

[sven kalmar]

could be..

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by RaginRog

Quarter sawn or not? It appears to have similar characteristics to the quarter sawn neck on my Select Jazz. Thanks in advance for any responses.

The neck on my L2K is like yours, but I don't think it was intentionally quarter sawn. Though who knows, since I bought it 13 or 14 years ago and I don't remember that as a specific feature you could order from G&L at that time?

It's an utterly unwarpable neck tho that may be due to the "bi-cut" construction. I do have to tweak the truss rod with temp changes like with all my wood basses, but it's otherwise very stable.
LS

[RaginRog]

Originally Posted by unclejane

The neck on my L2K is like yours, but I don't think it was intentionally quarter sawn. Though who knows, since I bought it 13 or 14 years ago and I don't remember that as a specific feature you could order from G&L at that time?

It's an utterly unwarpable neck tho that may be due to the "bi-cut" construction. I do have to tweak the truss rod with temp changes like with all my wood basses, but it's otherwise very stable.
LS

This was probably not intentional, as I don't think EB offers quarter sawn necks as an option.

[madbassplaya]

Someone mentioned Roger's take earlier:

Originally Posted by Sadowsky

I personally do not believe that quartersawn maple has any advantage over flatsawn. For mahogany necks, quartersawn is stiffer for sure. However, I always remember Rick Turner, at our occasional guitar maker gatherings, citing a US Department of Forestry manual that, if I recall properly, actually states that flatsawn maple is stiffer than quartersawn.

The issue is quality---a good piece of maple, properly cut and seasoned, will make a good neck, regardless of grain orientation. What one wants to avoid is a rift sawn neck in which the grain orientation changes a lot from the top end of the billet to the other.

I have always used flat sawn maple necks. I now use quartersawn maple fingerboards, but that is a cosmetic decision. I let my kiln dried wood sit for over a year before using it and I let my carved necks sit as long as possible before truing the board and fretting. We will occasionally catch a bad neck before we get to true the board and will reject it at that point. In almost 3800 necks over the last 20 years, I think I have had to replace a total of less than 20 necks on finished instruments, due to warpage.

Roger Sadowsky

[mongo2]

Quartersawing results in grain running up to approx 45 degrees from perpendicular to the surface of the plank.

[RaginRog]

Originally Posted by mongo2

Quartersawing results in grain running up to approx 45 degrees from perpendicular to the surface of the plank.

Thanks Mongo.

[shrigg]

This G&L I just picked up appears to have a quartersawn neck... or am I wrong?

[knowledgebass]

Originally Posted by shrigg

This G&L I just picked up appears to have a quartersawn neck... or am I wrong?

Could be but you would need to post a shot of the end grain on the neck to be sure. The grain could be angled away from the camera in the photo. If nothing else it is straight grained!

[GeorgeBerlin]

^ That G&L is definitely quartersawn IHMO. It looks very similar to the necks of my L1500 and L2500. Those necks flex less than the flatsawn neck of my L2000 tribute. This L2000 also sounds snappier, with a more pronounced attack than the L1500 (OK, maple vs ebony FB here as well). I guess the neck "soakes up" a bit more vibrational energy at the beginning of notes before the saturated "sustain" phase starts. I think that losses (inner friction) are more important to sustain while flex is more important to initial attack.

[Addison]

I made this for someone a while back to help them understand the differences between flatsawn vs. quartersawn, and, although it isn't an exact science and there are some exceptions, it's typical of what you would see when trying to determine which is which.