Trying to move as a pair to fund a nice Warwick or Spector. Both basses together + extras are just $750 + shipping CONUS. Both are stringed, strapped, intonated, tuned BEAD, and will ship in new, heavy-duty gigbags. More pics in next posts. CHARVEL: 1990's Charvel CSM-2B. Except the tuners, I upgraded everything on this including active EMG P pups WITH a rotary mid eq!. Neck and fretboard show very little wear, but the body is full of dings. The tape I put on there isn't for the dings though--mostly in the back--but to stand-out against dark clothes. Really fun bass, built solid as a brick, kinda dark purple. Kinda begs to have the dings repatched and be repainted. $200-qulity-ABM-type bridge installed, http://www.allparts.com/BB-0320-010-ABM-Chrome-4-String-Bass-Bridge_p_552.html as well as Artec midboost/cut rotary eq, push to return to dubby passive tone. Includes new, heavy-duty black gigbag. Also, has Fender P-style headstock, not the dorky pointed one, lol. EXTRAS: Rotosound SBL-135 stainless steel, roundwound, longscale 135-50 5-string set with just two hours play. Not bright enough for me. Also a coated set of 100-ish-50-ish with no sign of wear but again not bright enough for me. PEAVEY: Millennium USA with orig. case & upgrades CONDITION: 1) 2nd owner, lightly played here in UT last 3 years, smokefree home 3) This Bass is physically flawless--no scratches or dings to be found anywhere, as pics attest! (See one alteration below.) Tiny fretwear on first couple frets, tuned BEAD really lets this this breathe and rumble. UPGRADES: 1) Gold Wilkinson tuners that retail for $130-ish 2) Gold Ernie Ball straplocks with a tan tallman strap-- one strap button moved to about an inch above the bridge, on the body, for better balancing as is common with SG guitars. If you want to move back, tiny screw hole could easily be covered with a sticker or spare straplock. 3) Gold Hetfield flag fret stickers, easily removed QUIRKS: 1) Mid-eq gain pot crackles and needs a squirt of detoxit 2) Rare for a USA model (common for Mill BXP imports), the preamp thinks it's on even when unplugged--unless you put all the pots at center detent when done playing, which affirms the controls really are true bypass. You'll likely keep the balance, high, and low pots at center anyway, and only want to apply a bit of mid-boost or cut. OR, the threads here at TB say just replace the $3 barrel input that's likely gone bad or shipped defective. 3) The white dots on the knobs are whiteout, easily removed with your fingernail. REVIEW: With the straplock moved this bass is both light and perfectly balanced, esp. for slapping and finger-playing. It also never went out of tune during the couple dozen shows I played with it between 20-degree and 110-degree weather here in Ogden. The truss-rod is also SO easy to adjust with the notched wheel at the neck-heel: I just move it two notches (about 1/4 turn) in summer and winter. The weakest point on the bass were the cheap tuners (the plus models came with Hipshots). Low-end is MASSIVE.