Can Anyone ID This Bridge?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by bassestkkm, Feb 6, 2014.


  1. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    Its a 4 hole mount and I can't really find any others like it. As far as classic Fender type bridges is there a replacement with 4 holes or would I have to fill holes for the replacement. Its too chunky for my liking and gets in the way sometimes when I try to palm mute a bit.
    Added a couple pics hopefully it will help
     

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  2. nshuman

    nshuman Supporting Member

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    I was expecting a more entertaining thread :) (i.e. "bride")
     
  3. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    hahaha My bad! I'll fix that
     
  4. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Gold Supporting Member

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    man, i see no reason to replace that one; it's solid, spaced right, and the strings have clearance around them, meaning there's no reason palm-muting should be any kind of problem.
     
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  6. fhm555

    fhm555 So FOS my eyes are brown Supporting Member

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    ^this^ AND it's quick change.

    What's not to like?
     
  7. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    I can't get the intonation to set right because I adjusted it and it's still flat
     
  8. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Re-set your witness points at both the bridge saddles and nut. If you're not familiar with the process, I'd venture to say that's your problem.

    Edit: after viewing the pic again, it appears that you have enough room to move the saddles forward...this would be the appropriate measure for compensation. Exactly how are you checking intonation? Describe what adjustments you've made so far...be specific.

    Riis
     
  9. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    So far I've gone about trying to get the saddles forward then pushing down by the nut and the bridge (witness points) to stretch and seat properly and then re-tune and do it again. I've moved forward about 4mm so far and its gotten better but still not really there. I don't have a strobe tuner so I'm checking against my boss pedal tuner.
     
  10. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    You're on the right track. The boss pedal is fine for now. Are you checking fretted 12th against 12th harmonic? Have you run out of adjustment room, yet?

    Riis
     
  11. curbowman

    curbowman

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    That is the Cort bridge, installed in Curbow, Brian Moore, and other asian basses.

    In these bridges the intonation screws can't protrude through the saddle as they do on Fender bridges. That means once the screw has reach the front of the saddle, it stops moving backwards.

    Now you have to loose all the strings, extract all the intonation screws, and compare their lengths.

    These bridges use two lengths of intonation screws: shorter for the lower strings, and longer for the treble ones. They do this because fatter strings need their saddles to be adjusted more to the rear than the thinner ones (As seen in the picture).

    Since you wrote that you have moved the saddle all the way to the rear limit and it's still non-intonated, maybe it's because that saddle needs a shorter screw.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    Yes I'm checking 12 harmonic against the fretted 12th. I took into consideration that the fretted note would be very slightly sharp if it was all correct. I might just set the saddle back to the inside and start over. Because They're just about at their limit though there is still space on the bridge for them to extend. Maybe its a screw that is too short. I'll reset and readjust today and report back
     
  13. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    I should mention that its parts bass I received many years ago so Its a P bass body Routed for a MM pickup with 2 volumes and a tone control. The neck is a Jazz copy that doesn't fit in the neck pocket snugly and sometimes has play so perhaps there is play there? But its as straight as I can get it without noticable problems. So maybe I'll end up getting a new neck so it'll fit properly.
     
  14. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Don't sweat it. Match the 12th vs 12th and then check up and down the fretboard for consistency. No need to retreat and start over as it appears as if you've made some progress. Advance the saddle as required. If the intonation screw withdraws completely, the saddle block will plop backwards...no harm done. We can always get a longer screw.

    Riis
     
  15. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    Will do! And thanks so much for the help. I've got a Classic Vibe P that is perfect so so ths is the first time I'm having to do a proper adjustment on this one
     
  16. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Awaiting an update. Feel free to push it to the limit; you won't break anything. You may need to re-thread the screw, spring, and block assembly, though.

    As far as the neck instability goes, you may want to consider adding something like a square of thin sanding mesh, sandpaper, etc. to create the necessary grip between the neck pocket and neck heel. Do a search as there about two dozen ways to pull this off. It will solve the problem and cost about a nickel.

    Riis
     
  17. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    Yeah I might actually just stick a few nickles or quarters on the side of the neck pocket that is the problem. I decided to work first with the G and D string as they have the longer screws. Pushed them all the way out and they're perfect! :hyper: The screws for the A and E are too short to be able to make a huge difference so I think I'll try to hunt some computer screws down and replace these ones With longer ones.
     
  18. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    Hey! I found my bridge! Mighty Mite MM1204-C bass bridge. Now I just gotta buy some screws haha
     
  19. JustForSport

    JustForSport

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    Is it also possible that the neck didn't seat to the same place (meaning different scale length) than the original neck- did you re-check nut-to-saddle on the G string?
     
  20. bassestkkm

    bassestkkm

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    Yeah its all 834mm 34" on all the strings
     

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