Configure S-Tek Bridge

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by meegosh, Aug 2, 2007.


  1. meegosh

    meegosh

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    i have a schecter stiltto custom5 , i just feel the strings are a little too far apart from the fret board. sooo.. i don't know how to configure the bridge . so i thought i would post here to ask somebody for tips and probably learn something
     
  2. meegosh

    meegosh

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    umm actually i got se to the action but would still like someone show me how to do the s-tek
     
  3. meegosh

    meegosh

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    ok here is the pic you want to see, its kind of bright and blurred..
     
  4. meegosh

    meegosh

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  6. meegosh

    meegosh

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    sorry i'm not familiar with the terms... lol i usually bring my old bass to the loacal guitar shop and they do everything for me.

    i don't know what a relief is...

    and how do i know what each thing is for? like are they all for the height of the string?

    and what is intonation?

    sorry for being really stupid... i really hope there's like a video or seomthing i can watch and do this with.
     
  7. meegosh

    meegosh

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    ok i understand everything now from another site. the truss rod is fine, and the intonation on my b string is flat, but i don't know how to move the saddle. since my bridge is not like regular fender bridges, i don't know how to move it. i'm assuming the black things are for the cruve of the neck? but there isn't really a curve so i guess i dont need to use the black things
     
  8. ducatiman

    ducatiman

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    meegosh and joshua-

    the intonation lock screw is a 1.5mm allen head not shown in your photos. it is behind (to the butt-end of the guitar) each saddle. in your photo, these scews are obscured by the strings. remove tension (loosen) the string your are intonating, next loosen the 1.5mm screw,next make your adjustment (saddle forward or back), finally tighten the screw again (careful, don't overtighten and strip the threads) then tighten your string and doublecheck your intonation.

    the saddle height lock screws (same size) are shown above the saddles (in your photo). there is 1 per saddle. each should be loosened before doing any saddle adjustment (raise-lower). the 2 screws (same size again) on top of each black saddle raise and lower the saddle. loosen the lock 1st before adjusting, then lock it back down when adjustment is complete. DON'T GO CRAZY TIGHT! its steel (screws) into aluminum alloy. very easy to strip! :bawl:

    i went to a hobby shop (radio control cars) and bought a THORP brand titantium tip , plastic handled 1.5mm wrench for about 5 bucks , if i recall. much more precise, easier to handle and less likely to strip, crossthread or do any other damage than the cheapo L shaped hex wrenches. expend the effort and spend the few bucks. its worth it.

    so, you ok with all that? and what da hell, why is this thread so wide on-screen ???

    if you have any questions, if i've been unclear, just post and i'll try and walk you through it, best as i can.

    good luck, duc
     
  9. ducatiman

    ducatiman

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    yup, ya done it. ;)

    and correction .....the saddle intonation lock screws are barely visible to the left of the strings behind the saddles(angle of photo kinda obscures them) they sit on the sides and lock against the channel that the whole saddle carrier rides in.

    and meegosh- i have a stilleto studio 5 (same exact bridge) and find it a good idea to verify the tightness of all these lock screws every few months just to be sure vibration hasn't loosened them. i find its a pretty stable system, all in all.
     
  10. meegosh

    meegosh

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    hmmm the screw right beside the string is really hard to unscrew unlike the one facing the neck. how did you manage to unscrew that?
     
  11. ducatiman

    ducatiman

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    thats the intonation lock screw. my suggestion would be to

    1st- pre-determine which direction you need to move the saddle carrier (depends on intonation sharp or flat)

    2nd- loosen the string to the point where you can get your wrench into the locknut. if necessary, move the string aside
    using fingers from one hand while using tool in other. loosen COUNTERCLOCKWISE, make sure your tool is fully seated into allen head (thats why i got the titanium tip, quality tool, fits perfect)

    3rd- move the saddle carrier in the direction you pre-determined. tighten the locknut down. tune your string, check your intonation. readjust if necessary (start over from #1).


    yes, the strings are in the way of the locknut IF THE STRING IS LEFT TUNED!! the string must be loosened for the carrier to slide forward or back anyway. you'd be fighting the string down tension, and in time would more than likely damage the channel on the bridge and/or the carrier itself. LOOSEN THE STRING prior to adjustment!!! ;)

    OK????

    ----------------duc
     

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