Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Thor, Aug 16, 2010.
fEarful 12/6 & 15/6 enclosure designs discussion
continued from Part VI here.
just fyi, i've started a thread to document me trying to build a 12/6 (here)
thanks for all the info/effort/time/trialNerror and patience you've all contributed.
Would it be possible to list who sells cutkits? I'm sure it's in one of the other threads...but finding it? It would be nice to have the list of vendors stickied to the top of each fEarful thread.
Also what would the shipping weight be for a 1515/6 cutkit? A 1212/6? Thanks. These fEarful threads are incredible!
I sell cut kits
I'm not sure how I have to wire my cab. I put together a small shematic. Is it right to wire it like this?
Concerning the maximum power I can drive into this cab:
The 6ND410 has a maximum power of 240W. I read somewhere that the power distribution at a crossover frequency of 800hz is about 70%woofer/30%mid.
So in a 15/6 the 3015LF would get 560W if the mid is driven to its limit of 240W, which is too much for the 3015LF. A single 15/6 can take about 650W (450 Woofer/200 Mid), if the power distribution formula above is right.
So if I add a second 3015LF I can still push the 15/6 with 650W (see my shematic above; I will refer to the circuit of the 15 with the 6 as 15/6 and the single 15 wired in parallel as the second 15). The second 15 would get 650W too, but becasue of the lowpass filter it will only get 450W. So the total amount of power I can push into this cab would be 1300W, which is quite a lot. I am a noob so pls correct me if I'm wrong
The Duke HF crossover -
It's modeled using the JBL waveguide, while this is my preference and I've ordered one, it seems to be out of stock and back-ordered.
Getting the Dayton HO7E in the meantime won't cause any too different loading effects will it? Not enough to cause an unstable operation? I only ask because they are very very forceful in the wiki about swapping in different parts...
If it isn't an issue I can even see which I like better
I asked some thing similar on waveguides before, think the Dayton has a narrower vertical dispersion to the JBL other than they are very similar.
Picked the Dayton myself as it was easy to get and cheap.
subbed as well....
I would like to give a good recommendation to Reliable Hardware while I'm at it.
I built my fEarful last year and it has been great.
Lately though we have been playing at higher volume and that brought about some grill buzz.
I tried to order the grill stand off kit from Reliable, but it didn't meet there minimum order. So the next day I sent Dan a message and he said give me your address and I'll send you one no charge!
2 days later it is at my door.
Too bad customer service is overlooked with many companies.
I am putting up a Wiki page on the original Passinwind crossover, just for yer derision and scorn. Pie, anyone?
Nice PW - that there is pretty
240W for the 6ND410 is the program power rating.
For the 3015LF the program power rating is 900W.
[edit:] That doesn't change your calculations though -- I believe 1300W will get plenty loud with these drivers.
How hard you're pushing the 6" depends on how conservative the manufacturer is and how 'bursty' the music you play is (non-synth type signals). I just can't imagine needing to play that loud though!
So if wanted to separate my drivers in to their own enclosures (sub, headcase, etc.) what issues would I create - if any - by having the dedicated crossover elements residing within each of the enclosures?
I'd seriously consider biamping in the headcase situation, but that's just me.
I will certainly maintain biamping/straight connection using a DSP-enabled amp of one sort or another. I want to cover my bases though, and be able to roll with a standard head or pre/amp. Is there anything I am missing in wanting to split the crossover and put the components in with the drivers they serve?
A DPDT in/out toggle switch that is appropriate for the current per cab is all that's called for to my mind.....
Sloping around - Messing with ltspice.
Just messing around in my downtime at work using some very simple spice models to plot electrical response of the filters. Using greenboy/ and duke filters with the Erse product specs entered.
8 Ohm Resistive Load model: (using an identical pad system as the mid on the horn)
Using the "Load" as Re in series with Le:
Playing with the 100uH HF choke position ( just for fun ):
What hilarious phase responses Bode rolls in grave
*note none of these plots represent the real response of these networks, they are HIGHLY SIMPLIFIED and only made for my personal amusement and curiosity.
Take a look at the links in my Wiki crossover article.
Have you tried Crossover Designer ?
I'd like to see any plots from LEAP using actual driver data over frequency ^.^, I'm not "questioning the design" as much as curious why there's such a gross underlap in my model between LF and MF drivers.
I may have answered my own quesiton when seeing the 3015LF has a very large 5-6 db rise in response above 500hz peaking at 1.2ish kHz, filling in nicely with the filter underlap.
Separate names with a comma.