fEARful part nine (9)

Discussion in 'Amps [BG]' started by greenboy, Jan 11, 2011.


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  1. greenboy

    greenboy

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    from Part 8, first page - Part 8, last page

    I thought I'd get the new thread up. But I won't be posting here if I have to take crap from people who are happy to use my designs in one way or another but don't give me the respect that's due. So if you guys want me around keep that in mind.
     
  2. masonsjax

    masonsjax

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  3. cableguy

    cableguy Supporting Member

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    Viva La Greenboy! Hey Masonsjax, you think 16oz Duratex would be enough for a 12/6 & 12sub?
     
  4. rpsands

    rpsands

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    A quart of Duratex did my 3 cubic foot cabinet with plenty left over, and very thick coverage, and covering the baffle, without priming.

    My opinion is if you sand and prime with oil based paint first, 16oz would be enough.
     
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  6. masonsjax

    masonsjax

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    I covered my 15/6 with 3 or 4 coats and it barely looks like I used any. That stuff goes pretty far. I wouldn't use a heavy nap roller like you'd paint your house with though. I used the small foam textured roller from Acrytech and it goes on nice and thin.
     
  7. mcapote

    mcapote

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    I bought a gallon along time ago for car sub boxes and ive done atleast 2 fearful 12/6/1s, 2 x 15subs, 2 x 15/6, as well as 4 full trunk fiberglass/mdf sub boxes and have about 1/3rd of a gallon left, and I do my boxes up watertight with this stuff, so yeah you get great coverage much more than the manufacture says you get
     
  8. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies Supporting Member

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    I thought I'd post this from the end of the 8th thread, because it probably won't be seen there:

    [FONT=&quot]Also, a while back, Greenboy suggested that I might try running my 15/6 upside down on my 15/sub to get the mid away from my ear a bit. I did this on Sunday and found it to be a different experience. I ended up rolling my mids and highs back LESS because it wasn’t right in my ear, and when I stood out about 10 feet, the cab sounded balanced and smooth. I haven’t decided if this is my ‘ideal’ way to run things, but it certainly is an option for those who are finding that mid a little to present when they’re right in front of their cab. Now that I’ve tried it, I found that maybe I’ve gotten pretty used to having that defined mid up near my ears…so, we’ll see if I end up right side up or upside down…[/FONT]
     
  9. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies Supporting Member

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    I used hot glue for mine, along with having them zip tied, so I can't speak specifically about clear silicone. I would say that I'd want to make sure it was VERY secure glue.

    The coils are quite heavy and you really want them to stay put, not that you want the capacitors moving around either.

    DON'T glue any resistors...They'll see some heat and you don't want them insulated by glue or the glue to melt. In fact, you may want to review some of the past entries about raising the resistors or cutting out the area of your board below them to create increased air flow on all sides.
     
  10. Thor

    Thor Thanks Andy Pyle for showing me the way. Supporting Member

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    Mod Notice: There was a lot of trolling and BS in the last part of the last thread. TB's rule number one is respect. We will not tolerate any addition trolling here. You have been
    all officially warned. KEEP IT ON TOPIC. > fEARFUL.
     
  11. tombowlus

    tombowlus If it sounds good, it is good Supporting Member

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    In!

    [​IMG]

    And off (to NAMM). :cool:
     
  12. greenboy

    greenboy

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    It's far preferable to EQing out or padding down more than what works for a good house or stage mix. As always, each and every situation is unique/sacred. I'm really big on WMW (woofer mids woofer from top to bottom) for loud gigs "close playing" unless I'm using the ear plugs.

    For more distant player positioning on larger stages, or music genres that aren't quite as aggressive I'm happy with MWW (mid on top over both woofers). When I designed the crossovers I really looked at how output summed for these combinations when standing closer. We as players spend a lot more time listening to off-axis sound than we do on-axis output, so I wanted to find the bvest compromises for actual playing situations while still having flexibility.
     
  13. Passinwind

    Passinwind Charlie Escher Supporting Member

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    It's much better than hot glue, in my experience at least.
     
  14. Dizzy_G

    Dizzy_G

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    subb'd again. Welcome back GB, great to see you around again.

    Awesome stack Tom, love the 12/6 cube.
     
  15. felt-tip

    felt-tip

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    And, as expected, Gene from Reliable Hardware got back to me and will be making it right.

    Even Jove nods... Or was that Thor?
     
  16. tombowlus

    tombowlus If it sounds good, it is good Supporting Member

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  17. Chef

    Chef Moderator Supporting Member

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  18. masonsjax

    masonsjax

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    Just linked up a page for my 12/6 cube build. I'm in the "acquiring components" stage still and not sure how soon I'll be cutting wood, but figured I'd get a page going anyway.
     
  19. dannster

    dannster Supporting Member

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    Of course we want you around!:hyper:
     
  20. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut

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    i must've missed the disrespectful posts (didn't read all of the other posts), but hey GB, as long as you have the respect of those that count (which you most certainly do), don't sweat it. your contributions are cherished by those that truly recognize what you do. ;)
     
  21. thudfromafar

    thudfromafar

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    agreed with johnk, there will always be haters. just ignore.
     

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