Getting down on a SX neck....atomic orange stripping advice?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Diesel Kilgore, Dec 23, 2012.


  1. Diesel Kilgore

    Diesel Kilgore

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2012
    Location:
    Modesto, CA
    www.rondomusic.com/ursa2jrmnfl3ts.html

    I like this bass and think it may be my next one. But I have some ideas in mind to make it a bit more appealing to myself. First I would do a reshape of the headstock. Nothing difficult there.

    But the other thing I would like to do is get rid of the horrid orange finish from the entire neck. Since its fretless would it be as simple as using a chemical stripper and replacing it with a Tung or Tru Oil finish over the whole neck including fingerboard? Also since it is fretless would it be better to leave the fingerboard bare and just finish the headstock? Would a Tru Oil finish get beat up on a fretless board?
  2. HaMMerHeD

    HaMMerHeD

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    Location:
    Norman, OK
    1.) Citristrip and sandpaper.

    2.) You'll need to recoat the fingerboard. Maple is not very abrasion resistant, and stains easily.

    3.) Tru-Oil and Tung Oil will effectively seal the wood against discoloration, but will not protect it against abrasion from strings. For that, you'll want epoxy or CA.
  3. Diesel Kilgore

    Diesel Kilgore

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2012
    Location:
    Modesto, CA
    Thanks. I figured the stripping would go rather simple. Especially fretless. I know the epoxy topic has been covered a ton here so ill do a search for that. Thanks again.
  4. TheEmptyCell

    TheEmptyCell Dingwall ABZ Player Supporting Member

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    Location:
    Syracuse, NY
    It's actually sealed or clearcoated under the orange, so Citristrip and a plastic scraper should do away with most of the orange goo.
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  6. tjnkoo

    tjnkoo

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2011
    Location:
    Metro Atlanta
    On the contrary I have ready plenty of people how have had great luck with using tung oil to slow abrasion of strings on the neck. I've seen examples too, and the stuff works. It takes a few coats to effectively get it to soak in well though to where it will do something though.
  7. Hopkins

    Hopkins Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2010
    Location:
    Houston Tx

    Tung oil, which is nothing but a varnish/boild linseed oil mix with drying agents in most cases. Does not give wood a protective hard coating, and it wont hold up long on a fretless application, especially on maple.

    Epoxy is a royal pain, it takes forever to dry, and in my experience will seep under the tape used to make a dam on the finger board.

    CA glue applied in thin coats with a rag would probably be the easiest finish. Just be sure to wear the correct gloves and a good respirator, as those vapors are pretty nasty.

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