Hartke 5000 vs. 7000

Discussion in 'Amps [BG]' started by BillyB_from_LZ, Aug 9, 2004.


  1. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

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    I'm getting ready to buy one of those two and can't really decide which way to go.

    I'll be using the amp full range with a 2x10 and a 1x15 (both pretty efficient) per channel at the most...otherwise, a 2x10 and a 1x15 would each get their own channels. I don't care to biamp.

    At these power ratings, I shouldn't be able to hear a difference between them volume-wise (theoretically). I can see the argument for more headroom, which makes sense.

    Prepal.com suggests that the cost of used ones aren't that far apart (less than $40) which would drive me toward a 7000.

    Any thoughts on whether spending the extra cash for a 7000 is really worth it?

    5000 owners, do you wish that you had gone for the 7000 instead?

    Thanks!!!
     
  2. watspan

    watspan

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    Billy: I have the ha5000 and bi-amp into an ampeg pr1528he. I like the tube/ss preamp blending, adjustable and sweepable crossover and a great manual explaining all the features. Compressor is not too useful. The main thing to be aware of is that these amps are not bridgeable. In full range you get 250/350 watts respectively out of the 5000/7000. You need to biamp to geet the 250+250/350+350. You could easily biamp w/ your setup--I like it because you can fine tune your tone by sweeping between your 15 and your 10's (in my case 8's)
     
  3. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

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    Thanks! I guess I shouldn't rule out biamping until I try it.

    I realize that you can't bridge a Hartke...but thanks for mentioning it anyway.

    Have you ever felt that you should have gone with the 7000 (rather than your 5000)?
     
  4. b-ace!

    b-ace!

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    sorry to butt in but whats bridging?
     
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  6. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

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    b-ace!...Bridging is a method of interconnecting two poweramps, or two channels of a stereo power amp to create one single power amp with twice the power.

    Things like the minimum load impedance change...but "IF" the 7000 was able to be bridged, it would be rated 700 watts into 8 ohms (two 350 watt at 4 ohm channels in the bridge mode).

    There are many integrated bass heads (preamp and power amp(s) in one box) that can do this...Ampeg, Carvin, etc. but the Hartkes can't.
     
  7. b-ace!

    b-ace!

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    thanks for letting me know :) I was just curious because I'm in the process of buying the hartke 3500 head. anyway sorry for butting in.
     
  8. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

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    No problem... the 3500 has only one power amp so bridging wouldn't be an option anyway...
     
  9. watspan

    watspan

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    I don't gig so the 5000 is plenty for me. The price difference new was 200 or so, but for $40 used, I'd get the 7000--you don't have to use the extra power
    ;)
     
  10. whacker

    whacker

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    I'd go with the 7000, new or used. I've had one for a while that I purchased used, and even though it's no longer my main amp, it's a great backup. You may appreciate the extra per channel wattage if you ever need to play through a single 8 ohm cab. I don't know if this applies to the newer 7000s, but the older ones, according to the owner's manual, would deliver 310 watts RMS to a single 8 ohm load, using only ONE channel (even though using both channels into individual 8 ohm loads yields the rated 240 watts RMS). This was due to some aspect of the design of the power supply of the amp that allowed more power to develop when only one channel (or amp side) was driven. This is a plus, considering you indeed cannot bridge the two sides of the amp.
     
  11. basicallybass

    basicallybass

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    If you have an option...the 5500 is the way to go for max power. Especially if your cabs are both 8ohmers. I often felt as though I was pushing the 7000...even at moderate volumes. (with 2 8 ohms cabs.) ...had the opportunity to try the 5500 after I bought the 7000 and wished I had gone with the 5500.
     
  12. GDJ1

    GDJ1

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    I'm using the Hartke 5000 mono most of the time but bi-amp when I can. It depends on the size of the club. I have a 2x10 with aluminum cones and a 1x15 with a Peavey Black widow. I bought the 5000 second hand and it needed blow back diodes as it was a first edition and they hadn't figured that out yet. Plus it was tweaked to put out 300 watts per so it's actually 600. It's been very reliable since then. IT SOUNDS GREAT BI-AMPED!! I LOVE IT!!
     
  13. TheNightLife

    TheNightLife

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    i have the ha5000 and the power is more then enough. these amps are very loud when hooked up properly with good cabs. the cool thing about the 5000 is that you can blend the cabs manually, you can pull volume from one and put in another its an awesome feature especially if your using a 1x15 cab and a 4x10 cab.
     
  14. gozbass

    gozbass

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    I have a Hartke 7000 i bought last year for $281 on e-bay. I had to get it fixed for $100 so the seller refunded the $100. Can anyone tell me what they sold for new? I'd like to know.
     
  15. whacker

    whacker

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    If I took the time I could probably find an old Musician's Friend catalog to check, but I had a used one too, and IIRC I think new they ran into the high five hundreds, dollar wise.
     
  16. avvie

    avvie

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    I have a 7000...got it from a pawn shop for $120. IT IS ENTIRELY TOO MUCH AMP FOR THIS ISLAND.

    I miss my 3500...that was way plenty. I'd like a 2500 ideally but I like having a real tube preamp.

    I'm seriously considering that TC E BH250 head. Solid state, I know, but carryimg a refridgerator stack to every single gig is just stupid.
     
  17. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

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    If you ignore one set of speaker jacks and point the balance control properly, your HA7000 is an HA3500!
     
  18. avvie

    avvie

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    Right on... that's pretty much what I do. It still means that I have to carry all my cabs all the time; sometimes I'd just like to run one little Goliath jr 210.
     
  19. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

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    You could do that...with reasonable use of the volume control your Goliath will be fine (assuming you don't need to play stupid loud). But the Hartke is "only" 350 watts into 4 ohms...what's the worry?
     

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