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hipshot 3 point bridge install?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by GlennCarbon, Dec 9, 2013.

  1. GlennCarbon

    GlennCarbon

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    I have an Epi turdbird, my bridge is falling out and i read that a good way to resolve this issue is to install a hipshot 3 point bridge. I havent found any youtube videos to walk me through it. Will this be a difficult process? Can i d.i.y it or should i set it on fire?
  2. dalkowski

    dalkowski

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    It's easy peazey, livin' greasy.

    Literally a drop-in on your t-bird.

    Excellent bridge that gets a lot of love on TB. I have one on my Epi Allen Woody.
  3. GlennCarbon

    GlennCarbon

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    Great. I was kinda nervous.
  4. bassgod0dmw

    bassgod0dmw Supporting Member

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    When you say your current bridge is falling out, what go you mean?
  5. HypersoulRocks

    HypersoulRocks Supporting Member

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    Sometimes the studs get pulled out of the body...i used liquid nails in my Explorer bass when installing my Supertone...easy job, and the bridge is 100x better than the stock 3point.
  6. dalkowski

    dalkowski

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    Yep, gotta glue them studs in. A TBer told me, 2 drops of Super Glue per, at opposite sides of the stud and oriented across the body. Problem sol-ved.
  7. landau roof

    landau roof Reupholstered User Supporting Member

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    IMO, these adhesives are too permanent for the intended use. School glue would be a better alternative.
  8. Pilgrim

    Pilgrim Supporting Member

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    I've had the install studs pull loose on an Epi 3-point. I just pulled them out, painted the inside of the hole with super glue, then inserted them fully and gave them a quick tap with a rubber mallet to seat them well. Since I never intended to remove them again, I wasn't worried about that need.

    I assume this is what "falling out" means.

    Unless the OP simply dislikes the Epi 3-point bridge, this is likely all that he needs to do. I think Hipshot makes a nice bridge, but I've never felt the need to replace the 3-point. I know there are others who dislike the 3-point.
  9. GlennCarbon

    GlennCarbon

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    Yes, what I meant was that the studs at the end of the bridge are being lifted from the body. I have been banging them back in and tuning it all freaking day!!!!! I was looking into the hipshot not only as an upgrade but to never have to re-live the problem again. Originally I was worried that I had done something to the bass, maybe from adjusting the truss rod (I like my action low and in control) or from the fact that I don't use a case or gig bag (I like my bass to have that "lived in" look),but after doing some research this looks to he a rather common problem.
  10. dalkowski

    dalkowski

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    Changing the bridge wont' solve that problem; the adhesive of your choice is the easiest effective remedy.

    What I like most about the hipshot bridge is its individual string height adjustment. Big deal for me -- I was very dissatisfied with the height adjustment limitations of the stock bridge. (My first bass, a Guild B301, had a bridge with similar shortcomings)

    I
  11. jaxstarke

    jaxstarke

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    Supertone compared to the original 3-point is like night and day. Probably one of the easiest and better upgrades you can make to your thunderchicken.
  12. landau roof

    landau roof Reupholstered User Supporting Member

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    This may be coming from a commitmentphobe, but it's easy enough to use a lesser adhesive in case:

    • You want to swap the bridge for something else in the future.
    • Body gets badly damaged and you want to keep the bridge.
    • Ever get the urge to part it out, or sell with the original part.
    • Refin.
    • Future owner wants to do any of the above.

    While these things may very well never come to be, using permanent adhesives on instrument hardware is overkill.
  13. Roadstar

    Roadstar

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    I have three of these basses and I am going to try one.
  14. Grissle

    Grissle Supporting Member

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    Keeping the nose of the bridge higher than the tail will keep the studs from pulling also.
  15. mongo2

    mongo2

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    I just purchased a black Supertone 3 point for my ebony Jack Casady bass.
  16. mongo2

    mongo2

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    IME, with a little bit of superglue it's easy enough to break the studs free using the proper stud extractor and method but the studs won't pull out from string tension.
  17. mongo2

    mongo2

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    This didn't help on several Allen Woody/Rumblekats of my acquaintance.
  18. unclebass

    unclebass

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    Used gorilla glue to make sure the threaded inserts won't pull out again. Even though this bridge is a complete pain in the rear end to make adjustments on, I will not be changing it for another. Not worth putting $120 bridge on a $300 bass. Only modification I would make to this bass would be to install a Mod Bar to move the strings back in the bridge.
  19. mongo2

    mongo2

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    For that I've used a knurled brass nuts from the hardware store and drilled out the hole to pass the heavier strings through.
  20. georgestrings

    georgestrings Supporting Member

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    Actually, I *think* they're talking about the bushings that are a light press into the body - and in that case, you could still do any of the above with the bushings remaining in the body...

    That being said, I went thru the same experience with my Gibson T-bird, and installing a Supertone bridge... I didn't want to use a permanent adhesive if I didn't have to, incase the threads ever got messed up in the bushings, or I needed to re-run the bridge ground, or whatever - so, I used some Titebond on them, and drove them home - with the idea of using something stronger if that didn't work... I let the glue set up for 24 hours, then used some blue Locktite on the bolts that threaded into the bushings - no loosening issues so far, but the odds are that everything is reverseable, if needed... I also had the added bonus that Titebond cleans up easily, and won't damage the nitro finish on my Gibson - it all worked out for me, FWIW...


    - georgestrings

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