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How thick is your precarved/hogged neck blank?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by LightGroove, Feb 20, 2014.

  1. LightGroove

    LightGroove

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    Greetings,

    Just curious if there is a consensus as to the thickness (top to bottom) you guys start with on your neck blanks before carving/hogging. Im looking at putting together a 3 piece neck of Hard Maple, Yaya, Hard Maple and want to rip down some larger lumber. Was thinking about locating a few boards 4" wide and ripping em down to 2 inches. This seems adequate but want to make sure Im not overlooking anything or starting with an excessive amount or wasted wood. My goal is to end up with an Asymetrical neck (ala MTD) that is moderately thick.
  2. LightGroove

    LightGroove

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    Sorry, to add Ill be going with a scarf joint headstock
  3. Hopkins

    Hopkins Supporting Member

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    I usually use a 4/4 board for my neck blanks.
  4. ctmullins

    ctmullins Registered 8er Supporting Member

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    I wouldn't go any larger than 4/4, especially if you're planning on a scarf jointed headstock. Remember to add your fingerboard thickness to arrive at your overall thickness. I carved one recently that had a 5/4 neck with an additional 1/4 fingerboard glued on; it was a pain getting it down to a total thickness of 0.9"...
  5. Hopkins

    Hopkins Supporting Member

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    If you go to thin with your board then your scarf joint will be in the headstock instead of the back of the neck. Which is no big deal if you are doing front and back headstock laments. If not I think it looks a lot better for the joint to be on the back of the neck
  6. StuartV

    StuartV Out of GAS!! Supporting Member

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    Please forgive my ignorance!

    Are you saying you start with a 4" x 4" (by 30-something inches long) piece of lumber, in order to end up with a neck that is roughly 1" thick?
  7. Hopkins

    Hopkins Supporting Member

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    Rough lumber is measured in quarters, so 4/4 would be 1 inch. 8/4 would be 2 inches. Sorry, I should have been more clear.
  8. Big B.

    Big B.

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    I plan for my neck blank, with fingerboard, to be in the area of 1". This creates the amount of thickness I want at the heel while not leaving too much material to remove when carving. Depends on whether length or thickness is more of a limiting factor with my stock. If thickness is the limitation I make a 7/8 blank that is long enough to make both the headstock and the neck. If length is a concern I make a 1 1/2" blank just long enough to make the neck side of the scarf joint and then I resaw the headstock from the back of the blank. On a neck through with a scarf joint the body end of the neck blank will be much thicker than the neck, leaving plenty of material to resaw from the back of the neck to make the headstock.
  9. StuartV

    StuartV Out of GAS!! Supporting Member

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    And the clouds parted and the sun shone through!

    Thanks, Hopkins!
  10. LightGroove

    LightGroove

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    Yes ..thank you all very much! Great info.
  11. Rodent

    Rodent

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    Disclosures:
    Owner/Builder: Regenerate Guitar Works
    rough lumber size depends on what kind of neck I'm making - a typical F-style flat headstock comes from 4/4 unless there's a killer deal on 8/4 or 12/4 that makes my time resawing worth the $ saved on rough stock

    R
  12. reverendrally

    reverendrally

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    19mm. Saves a lot of time. ;)

    But again, that's for bolt ons.
  13. LightGroove

    LightGroove

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    This is my plan. Im looking at buying rift/flat saw boards and ripping em down to 4/4 and making a sammich out of them. I plan to invert the stock to have the wood work against itself and eliminate twisting/bowing as it seems wood likes to move a bit after its cut down. Ive found a number 5/4 6/4 5"-6" wide that I plan to rip into 1-1 1/2" strips so Ill end up with 1 1/2" thick x 1" tall.

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