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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by kreed, May 8, 2007.
1) with a cocobolo fretboard?
2) with a purpleheart fretboard?
Probably really bright, possible without a whole lot of sustain and some balance issues.
I wanted one with my Conklin neck and Bill told me that Bubinga can get "squirrly". Why? Not sure.
sounds like neck heavy and an aching shoulder to me
all the best,
doesnt really sound like what i'm looking for..what if i wanted something with warm and deep lows, sweet,singing highs? Not so much mid-based..something that would be heard in a mix but sit nicely..
Ebony board with a maple neck.
Add purple heart to the neck if you need to get into multiple pieces.
Nothin' wrong with the 'ol faithful combos.
I would think it would have quite a lot of "top and bottom", especially with the the fretboard woods you've chosen enhancing the brightness.
It would be very, very heavy though.
Warmoth http://www.warmoth.com/bass/necks/necks.cfm?fuseaction=guitar_neckwoods lists it as kind of moderate tone wise.
Based on what you want, I wonder if ebony/koa might be a winner. The koa should bring the warm lows, ebony the high end.
I'd say use Maple, Wenge, Bocate or Cocobolo for the neck, but use Bubinga or Maccasar Ebony for the FB! Bubinga has a Honey sweet tone as a fretboard
When I see questions like this I often think the best answer is, "Build one like that and find out." On the other hand, maple with ebony/rosewood is a pretty safe bet.
My Ritters have three piece maple necks. One has ebony, the fretted one has a slick black finish with an overcoat so it most likely just maple underneath. They both have great sound across the whole range. All of the Ken Smith basses have maple necks primarily. When I see all the top bass luthiers using maple, I figure these fellows have answered the materials questions.
I guess what I'm thinking is that the maple neck is more important than the fingerboard. One of the lead guitarists I play with has a PRS guitar with an Indian Rosewood neck that sounds really nice, but I don't know how that would work on a bass. A bass neck needs some flexibility and strength. Maple is really good for that.
My Dingwall Afterburner II has a bubinga neck with a wenge fingerboard and it sounds great. Compare to my maple/wenge ABI (also mahogany vs. alder body), it has a more complex midrange and a little more bite.
I have never heard of cocobolo being used for a fingerboard. It sure makes one nice top though!
would a goncalo alves neck with a bubinga fretboard be more of what i'm looking for without causing neck dives or my back to break?
I guess it would also matter who's playing it, what kind of amp, strings, pick-ups, too...
The fingerboard isn't gonna cause the neck dive. It's the dense hardwood you want for the neck.
For many years, I was under the impression that the dark woods made for THE best tone. I spent many years lusting for Warwicks. I happened to come across a bubinga/walnut Peavey Cirrus, which was the closest I could afford. I liked the Cirrus a lot and came across a maple/alder, which I thought had a more pleasant tone.
Fast forward to last year and getting my first Rob Allen bass. Maple neck, ebony board, and ash body with a spalted maple on spruce top. Light weight and killer sustain. Rob kinda informed me that you can have killer basses that don't weigh you down like an anchor.
+1 for a Dingwall AB II with Bubinga neck and Wenge fingerboard. good combination.
My cort B5 has a bubinga neck with a wenge fretboard. I think it's got a lot deeper tone than you would expect. granted I have the MK-1 p/u's, but I can really dig in on the board and I get a nice tonal response. I hope to put an obp-3 in this bass soon to help expand the sound and make the bass more versitle so I can use it in any situation....
but how's the neck weight on these bubinga necks? Really heavy?
or vs Koa and Goncalo Alves..
Isn't goncalo alves about the same weight as bubinga?
i'm looking for a wood that brings out smooth and deep lows..koa also seems to be a good choice..but its rather expensive?
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