Ibanez GSR 100 Rebuild - P/MM

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by JohnnyLiBass, Jul 12, 2012.


  1. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    So here goes.

    I've seen a lot of really amazing things around here and the day will come when I'll make something original, but today is not that day. It seems like a lot of guys build their confidence on a rebuild before they dive into a full on custom (unless you're PilotJones of course, love that build man...) so it seems like a good first step to me.

    I've always had mixed feelings about what to do with this bass... I've wanted to sell it, put the money towards something else but the sentimentality of it being my first bass always held me up. So I compromised and dropped in a Seymour Duncan quarter pound p/u and loved what it did for the sound. But, here again I've got the urge to play with it. So this time around i'm gonna add a pickup and some new paint.

    The Plan:

    Step 1 - Disassemble & inventory parts
    Step 2 - Strip/ sand
    Step 3 - Add MM p/u (and maybe a preamp?)
    Step 4 - Paint

    I wanna breathe some new life into the instrument that made me fall in love with all things low and boomy. So enough jibber jabber, here she is.

    [​IMG]

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  2. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Been a long time since I had the time to make any progress on this project but here are a couple updates.

    A ways back I sanded the finish down with 200 to get it all scuffed up.

    1360532266070.jpg

    I know I shouldn't have used the sander but I've learned a lit more since then. I didn't go all the way through the finish anywhere so I should be OK.
     
  3. wcoffey81

    wcoffey81

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2012
    Location:
    S/E Michigan
    there's nothing wrong with using the sander. i suggest that you go over it with a hand block and some 320-400. then it will just right for some primer/surfacer.

    if you are going to use a modern 2k primer/surfacer you can stick with the 200 and a block. anything out of a rattle can do what i first suggested.

    if you are using a rattle can start off with fairly light coats and watch for lifting. if it lifts you will probably need to strip it down to bare wood and start over
     
  4. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Thanks for the tip. I expect that it'll be spring before I attempt any painting. I'll build a booth in the garage to keep it dust free.

    I think I'll probably end up using rattle cans for the whole job. I don't have access to any real deal spray equipment.
     
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  6. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Today was the day to get back into it again. I spent the afternoon playing around with getting the template just right. BIG thanks to 72LML for hooking me up with the awesome template and endmill.

    I was told to just attach it using doublesided carpet tape but I have to admit that I was a little less than confident in its ability to stay stuck so I mocked up a little test.

    [​IMG]

    I am happy to say that this stuff was damn sticky! It worked great so I moved on to marking up and aligning the template on the bass. After three passes to get the full depth here is was I was left with.

    [​IMG]

    The moment of truth... template removed and test fit the p/u:

    [​IMG]

    Verdict: Perfect fit! Drilled the hole from the p/u cavity to the control cavity and called it a day. More to come once I get the preamp in my hands.
     
  7. Splods

    Splods

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Media:
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    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    This is going to be killer, Looking forward to more progress.
     
  8. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Just ordered a Nordstrand 2B-MM preamp. Come on post office!
     
  9. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    So I'm waiting for my preamp to show up and while I'm waiting I thought now would be a good time to address a rough spot where the sander got a little hungry.

    Here is a shot:

    [​IMG]

    And a little closer up:

    [​IMG]

    I'd like to build it back up so I can paint over and have the finish be smooth right up to the pickup.

    I was thinking bondo would be a better choice instead of something like wood putty. Are there any better choices out there for what I should use to fill in the divot?
     
  10. 72LML

    72LML

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2009
    Location:
    Burnsville, MN
    Bondo (aka body filler) would work just fine. When refinishing my guitars I always use body filler for large divots, dings, nicks, etc... Then a coat or primer and fix any small imperfections with glazing putty. You can find that at Napa or other auto parts stores. It works really well to fill in any small imperfections.
     
  11. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Some quick updates... the mailman brought me a present!

    Nordstrand 2b-mm preamp courtesy of the folks at best bass gear.
    1363293315867.jpg

    The controls are volume, bass, and treble. Both p/u's will be controlled simultaneously... in other words no blend, just everything all the time.

    The best part is that they did almost all the soldering... that'll help keep this clean!

    1363293357604.jpg

    It does pose a problem though, as it sits now I only have 2 holes in the top of the bass for knobs... time for a bit of calculation.
     
  12. tdub0199

    tdub0199

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    Location:
    Atlanta, Ga.
  13. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    So this is working in real-time I suppose. Having the preamp in hand has inspired me to action. I needed to drill another hole for the extra pot so I looked inside control cavity to see just how far I could get it away from the other two to make it look at least remotely factory. 1363298953875.jpg

    X marks the spot. But just to be sure I busted out the protractor to transfer the mark to the surface.

    1363299018766.jpg

    I'd say that will work nicely. Plenty of room for the pot and clearance all around for the other wires in there. Back in a few after I get my drill out.
     
  14. JohnnyLiBass

    JohnnyLiBass Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Aaaaand success. It ended up being a little closer together than the factory holes but I think it'll be fine in the end. I'm sure that only the most critical eyes will pick it out..... I hope!

    1363299641013.jpg

    While I was at it I figured I would both bondo my tear out and fill the old holes from the previous bridge.

    1363299720447.jpg

    Well I guess that's a good place to stop for now. Id say that was a good hour!
     

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