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neck, fretboard, and finish repair help!

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by slappa_dat_bass, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. slappa_dat_bass


    Nov 10, 2012
    Ok, so this is my brothers axe, an Esp/Ltd. It WAS a really clean axe, until he had it shipped to his new post at Fort Lejeune NC from 29 Palms CA. He disassembled it and wrapped everything in bubble wrap, but for some reason FedEx damaged the box and did some damage to both the neck and body. See the pics below. Anyhoo, I figured id put this problem to the resident TB luthiers. What's the easiest, cheapest way to fix each piece of damage? This may not be a very expensive axe, but its his baby and it was extremely clean until he shipped it. Thanx in advance guys!

    Attached Files:

  2. slappa_dat_bass


    Nov 10, 2012
    Aaaand the body damage

    Attached Files:

  3. slappa_dat_bass


    Nov 10, 2012
    Better fretboard pic

    Attached Files:

  4. Dauby90


    Aug 5, 2009
    It looks like a poly-finish, and considering its not a "very expensive" ESP im going to say poly-finish.

    In other words your cheapest and best route would be doing absolutely nothing! =D Poly finishes are unrepairable. Sooo unless you're feeling froggy and want to sand the entire body down and start new, congrats you now own a "Super Delux Road-Worn Series" ESP.
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  6. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    I would think that the cracking in the clear on the neck would be improved by letting thin CA wick into the cracks, then drop fill any depressions with CA, then smooth it out through a series of grits. It could end up close to invisible.
  7. Turnaround


    May 6, 2004
    Toronto Canada
    Instrument Technician, Club Bass and Guitar - Toronto
    Well actually, not only are they repairable, but with today's materials and methods they're actually a relatively easy repair as finish repairs go.
  8. slappa_dat_bass


    Nov 10, 2012
    I just read this reply to my brother and he's still laughing lol. Actually he fixed it ok. He sanded the edges down smooth then took the whole thing to NAPA where the paint guy color matched him a small aerosol can of the red as well as a touch up bottle. So it looks ok now. As far as the neck we just sanded it until the scratches were out. The fretboard is still an issue with him tho. Its completely playable but looks like crap :/
  9. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    Is any part of the damage denting, or is is it entirely chipped-removed wood?

    Dents can be steamed out. For this to work, the wood has to be bare, no hard finish on the surface.
    1. Fold an old t-shirt a few layers thick, and wet it.
    2. Position the cloth over the dent.
    3. Apply the tip of a hot clothes iron to the spot for a few seconds.

    I've never done it on rosewood, but I know that on others it works very well.

    Try this before you even think of sanding out the damaged edge. If you do do any sanding, give the steamed area a full day of drying first.
  10. slappa_dat_bass


    Nov 10, 2012
    No its chipped out. I'm considering using some clear epoxy with rosewood dust in it to bring the corner out. Like you would do to fill fretlines during a defret.
  11. 96tbird

    96tbird PLEASE STAND BY

  12. slappa_dat_bass


    Nov 10, 2012
    the superglue idea may work if it will look as good as it did
  13. Pilgrim

    Pilgrim Supporting Member

    Well, that lets the shipper off the hook. They're no longer responsible for it since you've messed with it.

    I was going to say have the shipper pay for a refin or a replacement bass - but you've lost that option.

    Your best option - do the homework and learn how to do a complete refin yourself. It will take 20-40 hours the first time, but done right it will look great. You'll have to strip the body and neck (you will NOT like that part), sand and prep, seal, sand, shoot base coat, sand, then shoot color coat, then shoot clear coats, then finish sand and polish. Acrylic lacquer from Stewart-McDonald is a good way to go, or you can buy Dupli-Color rattle cans at the car pars store - they're also acrylic lacquer.

    Too bad you've lost the option to get any help from the shipping company - but once you start working on it yourself, you're past that.

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