Need help from DIY builders

Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by Lark, Nov 21, 2012.


  1. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Hi Guys,

    Ive recently started to build my own stompbox pedals, and am looking to progress with this hobby. I have literally started out with NO knowledge of electronics, just a drive to build something that i want rather than paying obscene amounts of money for. I have built 2 A/B boxes for friends and have both turned out fine, and have SLIGHTLY increased my knowledge along the way. I am enjoying this hobby, however, i have hit a wall with something and am hoping to get a bit of advice from some more experienced members....

    First of all, i have planned out my next few projects. These include a GGG Tuned Big Muff, A GGG Ross/Dyna Compressor, a GGG DOD ef440 clone, and a looper/blender pedal. For all the GGG pedals, i am (Hopefully) buying the PCBs only, and sourcing the remaining parts myself. They all look pretty straight forward, and GGG is a fantastic resource for these, however, i want to keep the Muff for myself. Im hoping to add a mids pot to cut/boost the mids. For the knowledgable, am i correct in assuming that i only have to replace the "C1" 0.1uf cap with a 22nf cap, and replace the "R2" 100k resistor with a 22k-25k Pot with a 1k resistor in series? Will the pot need to be Log or Linear?

    And secondly, im having alot of trouble finding a good wiring diagram for the looper/blender pedal that i am comfortable to proceed with. I have found some fantastic resources and ideas (Paralooper, B.Blender, Paramix etc.) but am unsure how to wire the Vero/PCB into a true bypass effects loop. I have Taken a true bypass effects loop diagram, and taken the vero layout and put it together. I just wanted to know if im on the right track and whether or not this will work if i put it together. Refer to image below (apologise for crappy PS skills, just did this quickly) If you need the original files for reference, let me know, but the Vero layout is a Buff N Blend, and the wiring diagram is taken from Beavis Audio.

    Any advice or help on either of these would be fantastic.

    I am working on increasing my knowledge as i progress.

    Thanks in advance.

    Attached Files:

  2. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    Yep you'd be right, according to this. The pot can be log or linear, it doesn't really matter, but one will behave differently to the other. Most people prefer linear pots for tone controls, which is what the Big Muff uses for its standard tone control. I'd use linear.

    Assuming you're not working the Buff 'n Blend into the Big Muff, your diagram should look like this (excuse the crap drawing):

    Attached Files:

  3. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Hey Ibanez,

    Cheers for the info. All i want to do is add a mid cut/boost to a Big Muff (think Grey Stache).

    And, then in a separately enclosure (completely new pedal) make an effects loop that i can blend with my clean bass sound. (e.g. distortion in loop then blend with my clean signal).

    I greatly appreciate your advice. Will i achieve both of these plans with what you have provided? If thats the case, you have made my day!

    Lark
  4. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    Yeah mate, the diagram I've drawn will cover the Buff 'n Blend. As for the Muff, just build the circuit then do the mods you mentioned, easy!

    Let me know if you have any trouble, I'm happy to help.
  5. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    Oh, the thing to remember with the buff 'n blend is that it doesn't guarantee input or output impedances, but it should work in most applications. If any impedance issues arise you could try SeanM's B Blender. And remember you can get a Boss Ls-2 for $60 - $70, which not only blends 2 parallel signal chains, but allows for many more routing options as well.
  6. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Do you think I should just bite the bullet and go for the b.blender? I've only opted for the buff n blend because it looks slightly easier of what I have seen. I might try and draw up a wiring diagram for the looper with the b.blender, as I find it easier to do the job this way.
  7. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    Personally I wouldn't bother. I built the FET blender from SeanM's site, which I used for a short time to blend my Russian Muff with clean. Worked fine, no issues to note. I only stopped using it because I needed to route 3 stacked signals at once, which is a much more complex project.
  8. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    In your opinion, would it be necessary to add a phase toggle switch?
  9. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2008
    Location:
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    Disclosures:
    John K Custom Basses
    looking at that diagram, the indicator led will fry unless you you a resistor (laround 4.7K) inseries with one of the legs. and when using a pot for a blend control, you want a linear one.
  10. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    Yeah I know, I forgot to put it in that layout. I did mention it when I posted.

    EDIT: Fixed it. Resistor for LED is now included.
  11. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    If you're just using a big muff, you won't have an issue, as it isn't phase inverting. So I wouldn't bother. The majority of pedals don't reverse the phase, there is a list somewhere on the web that gives the names of *most* (not all) pedal that are phase reversing, I'll see if I can find it.

    EDIT: Here - http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=796444&referrerid=127590
  12. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Hey Ibanez,

    Thank you for all your help man. If i could continue to be a pain, im looking at building a clone of a Blueberry OD. Can you see if how i have wired this looks ok? Excuse the poor drawing in PS again.

    Ill let you know how all these ventures go!

    Attached Files:

  13. Jordan S.

    Jordan S. Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Disclosures:
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    Here you go, there was only 1 minor mistake, other than that it was perfect! that TBP wiring diagram IS hard to look at, but the advantage is that it grounds the effects input, reducing noise. Let me know if you need any more help.

    Attached Files:

  14. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Thanks for the help man!

    Really appreciate it!

    I'm getting there with the wiring. I think I understand where I went wrong. Once I finish my first four projects, ill be moving on to this one.

    Where abouts in aus are you from?
  15. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Hey guys.

    I recently started building a GGG Ross compressor. I sourced all the parts myself and bought the pcb from GGG. I have followed all the steps and diagrams to the best of my ability. I started mounting everything into the enclosure and tested it. I had no signal (bypass or engaged) however the led worked.

    I preceded to open it back up and looked at my diagram and tried changing some of the inputs wires on the input jack. I must have had the wrong lug. At this stage I tested the effect before mounting back in the enclosure and it worked fine. I excitedly put the effect back in the enclosure to test again, only to find that it didn't work once put back together. I assume it was a ground issue as my power supply light was flashing, as what happens when overloaded or not grounded properly.

    I had taken the back off and taped the solder side of the pcb with electrical tape as I thought it may have caused the problem. Plugged it back in and nothing....

    Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas? Happy to supply pics if necessary.

    Thanks.
  16. tonymcbony

    tonymcbony

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2006
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    Look at how your switching is wired up.

    If no signal is passing through either way, you have something amiss with the basic true bypass circuit; look on GGG for switching diagrams and check it against it.

    In any case, pics will help. My first thought is the same as yours, you'll have either a loose wire or a component grounding against the case. Check that the input and output jacks aren't shorting against something.
  17. cheapbasslovin

    cheapbasslovin

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2007
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Does your power supply jack have metal parts touching the case, because that'll short out the power supply faster than you can say 'where is the juice?'
  18. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    All I can think is that a component is touching the enclosure somewhere. As I said, out of the enclosure it was working fine. Once it was put back in, I had nothing. I will go and have another look. I will post some pics soon aswell.

    What do you mean about the power supply? The jack or the supply itself?
  19. cheapbasslovin

    cheapbasslovin

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2007
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    If your jack is made of metal, it will short the positive terminal (the outside of the power supply plug) to the case, which is bad. Very, very bad. (If your power supply protects itself, probably not that bad)

    You need a jack that isolates the outer portion of the plug from the case.
  20. Lark

    Lark

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    It is just a usual 2.1mm DC jack. Haven't had dramas with them before. Metal inside, plastic outside... Im fairly certain I have wired it right.

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