Removing Super Glue from back of neck?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Matthew_84, Nov 30, 2012.


  1. Matthew_84

    Matthew_84

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    So I got a Mighty Mite neck a while ago. I was pretty surprised by the very thin coat of satin oil poly on the maple. It's really just enough to seal it. I can tell by looking at it, that's it's pretty much a paper thin coat.

    I spilled some super glue on the the back of the neck, and it's pretty ugly. It is not as clear as I thought it would be. Is there anyway to remove the glue without damaging the finish?

    I highly doubt it, but thought maybe someone here could help. I have read to put acetone or Goof Off on a Q-Tip and be careful, and only apply it to the glue, but not sure if it could eat through and damage the finish.

    Any input would be appreciated,

    Matt
     
  2. Matthew_84

    Matthew_84

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    Oh, and lesson learned. Don't use super glue in a rush! Especially near a bass.
     
  3. bassteban

    bassteban

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    Acetone is somewhat aggressive- can you hit the neck on the heel or somewhere you won't see it first? I could see the acetone melting the finish and not affecting the glue at all.
     
  4. Matthew_84

    Matthew_84

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    That's a good idea. I didn't think of that. Thanks!
     
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  6. Matthew_84

    Matthew_84

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    I just read this about acetone and polyurethane... I will certainly try it on the heel though before proceeding.


    (from: http://www.ehow.com/info_8384303_can-strip-hardwood-floor-acetone.html

    Can You Strip a Hardwood Floor With Acetone?
    By Chris Deziel, eHow Contributor

    Floor installers in the past often used shellac or varnish as a finish. You can soften them by moistening them with a solvent like acetone, and strip them when they are soft, but doing so isn't the best way to do the job. Most contemporary floor installers use polyurethane instead of shellac. It hardens by curing and produces a much more durable coating, but because it cures, you can't soften it again by using acetone.

    Shellac, Varnish and Polyurethane

    Shellac is a natural polymer originally derived from a resin secreted by lac bugs and dissolved in a solvent. Some varnishes are similar, consisting of a natural resin, usually pine sap, in a solvent. You can soften either of these with acetone. Polyurethane, although sometimes called a varnish, is a synthetic plastic. Although it too is borne in a solvent, which can be similar to the type that carry shellac or can simply be water, it undergoes a complex chemical reaction with the air as the solvent evaporates -- a process called curing. The reaction is irreversible, and polyurethane doesn't become soft again.

    Stripping a Floor With Acetone

    Although you can strip a floor with acetone if it is finished with shellac or a similar material, like lacquer, most modern floor finishers don't use either of these materials as a final finish because they aren't hard enough. Acetone will soften some varnishes that were in common use before polyurethane became popular, making them marginally easier to scrape off, but the process is messy and time consuming. Even removing shellac or lacquer, which dissolve readily in acetone, is messy and labor intensive. It requires several applications of the solvent to do the job properly.
     
  7. Stilettoprefer

    Stilettoprefer

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    Acetone shouldn't harm poly. It'll kill the glue, though. Finger nail polish remover has acetone in it and I used it to remove sicker residue from a guitar body that was finished with poly.

    As always, try on a hidden part of the neck just in case
     
  8. Matthew_84

    Matthew_84

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