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Safe to Buff W/out Clearcoat?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by sricks3, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. sricks3

    sricks3

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    Dec 6, 2007
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    Hello Talkbass,

    I did a couple of quick searches of the forum, but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

    I'm working on my first refinish, and I decided to make it easy on myself by going with the Guitar ReRanch premixed aerosols (as much as I hate aerosols). I noticed that they recommended not to use a clearcoat on their whites and blondes because it will cause them to yellow, so I'm taking that advice. However, I've reached the wet sanding stage, and while thinking ahead to buffing, a question popped into my mind: is it safe to buff the color coats?

    I suppose it shouldn't make a difference really. I mean it's all nitrocellulose right? The color just has pigment(s) added? I could be showing my naivete here.

    Also, since this is my first time buffing nitro, which buffing/polishing compound is your favorite? I've just been planning to use a regular automotive type (McGuire's or Turtle) unless those are too harsh.

    Thanks for any input y'all can give me.
  2. Musiclogic

    Musiclogic

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    Disclosures:
    Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
    Buffing the color will be fine if you have enough color on. As you said, it's nitro, so it works the same way.

    Wet sand with 800 to flatten, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 wet to remove any orange peel specs, then move to a 3m #7 rubbing compound to remove scratches, Meguiars Sealer wax to seal the finish and Carnauba Wax to put the final gloss protection.

    This is just 1 way, there are many finishing threads on here including LedBelli's Nitro tutorial that you might find helpful.
  3. sricks3

    sricks3

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    Thanks for the feedback. I suspected I'd be alright buffing the color, but I wanted to be sure before my rubbing compound stripped it all off or something.

    I probably should have checked the other threads for compounds of choice; that was sort of an afterthought question.

    Thanks again!
  4. Musiclogic

    Musiclogic

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    Disclosures:
    Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
    A lot of guys like Manzerna Powder polishes, and a large amount of people here swear by Micro Mesh, so that will give you a little more to research, along with 3M's "Finesse It" family of polishing systems. You'll have to find what you are most comfortable using. ;)
  5. ThaLowEndTheory

    ThaLowEndTheory

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    How much color did you spray? I'd recommend at minimum 1 1/2 cans but preferably 2 cans to give you some room for error. Wetsanding can remove alot of material, and you need to be extra careful along the edges. How much sanding depends on how the finish turned out. On a good day I can start wetsanding at 1200 grit. Other days I have to start with 800 to effeciently remove orange peel. Musiclogic gave you some good info, and you can find some additional info at the reranch forum.
  6. Skatman

    Skatman

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    Don't buff through your color. Get plenty of clear built up before you wet sand, you want enough on there so that you see dimension, and especially watch your horns this will be the first thing you buff through since nitro has a hard time sticking to points. 10-15 solid coats after color will do this pending on how you scuff sand in between days . And let it cure for an appropriate time before wet sanding. GL.

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