Strings for long-term bass testing

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by uOpt, Jan 14, 2014.


  1. uOpt

    uOpt Supporting Member

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    For pickup and neck testing I have been using the Fender 8250s. Simply because they sounded good with the 1997 AmStd Precision I use for that kind of testing.

    I think I have to step this up a bit. The E string taper is annoying since it requires a saddle height adjustment on the target bass. I don't want any silk anywhere. And finally I think that strings with more treble would be better for this kind of thing. If there is no treble you wouldn't be able to tell what's changing in those regions as you mess with the bass. Think about the stupid debate about capacitors. Won't be able to insert facts into that one with round-core nickels.

    So I am thinking I will use non-tapered, non-silk, nickel plated steel roundwounds with hex core. Finally it wouldn't hurt if the strings were somewhat cheap and/or on sale regularly since they won't take well to being put on new basses regularly.

    I think the D'Addario XLs are the best best unless somebody has better ideas?
     
  2. pfox14

    pfox14

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    Sounds like you got it all figured out.
     
  3. Laurent

    Laurent Supporting Member

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    Super Slinky's are really nice strings. I A/B them against Fender 8250's and found the Ernie Ball to be superior in tone and feel. That being said strings are like pick-ups, highly a matter of personal taste. It's really difficult to assess the differences between two sting sets unless you can compare them side by side.
     
  4. uOpt

    uOpt Supporting Member

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    Actually that's right, I should consider the Slinkys. DR nickel high-beams also fit but are needlessly expensive for this purpose.
     
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  6. dedpool1052

    dedpool1052

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    while they are more expensive than others, I have had very good luck with multiple re-stringings using DRs. I had one set of Hibeams for over 4 years and they had been on and off my p-bass probably 5-6 times and I never had any issues with them.
     
  7. Jaco who?

    Jaco who?

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    DR high-beams are not nickel and have a round core. Maybe you mean nickel Low riders? They'll last longer than the XLs, whether they last longer enough to justify the price is probably subjective - one players "dead" strings are another's "just broken in" strings.
     
  8. uOpt

    uOpt Supporting Member

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    I meant the lo riders with nickel plated steel of course. One thing I don't like about DR is their confusing naming :)

    There is nothing lo riding about the stainless steel hex cores :D
     
  9. SLaPiNFuNK

    SLaPiNFuNK Gold Supporting Member

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    It's going to need to be a Hex Core string. They are overall more durable when it comes to switching from bass to bass. If you have to straighten the curved tuning post section to thread through a bridge it wouldn't survive many bass changes with round cores.
     
  10. dedpool1052

    dedpool1052

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    i guess i can agree with that

    can't say i agree with this though. IME, i haven't found either to be more durable than the other. it's the overall quality of the string that matters, not the core type. IMHO.
     
  11. Toptube

    Toptube

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    Rotosound's Rotobass strings. They have more mid character than the Daddarios, which makes for a nice bark.
     
  12. uOpt

    uOpt Supporting Member

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    I don't like the Rotos and they aren't exactly cheap. I also perceived them as more fragile as others.
     
  13. waynobass

    waynobass Supporting Member

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    Rotobass are cheap. They are Rotosound's budget line, nickel with no silks. ~$16 on the bay.
     
  14. Toptube

    Toptube

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    pfff, ebay. Bassstringsonline is cheaper and has free shipping. Even for a single set.
     
  15. JustForSport

    JustForSport

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    Fodera nickels have plenty of treble (IMO), and will withstand quite a bit of re-stringing if you don't straighten out the strings to get them in and out of the thru-bridges,
    just open the coils a little and turn the string to spiral it out. They're not expensive for the quality and tone, either. BTW, they're round-core w/o silks.
    The biggest string killer will be swapping from 4-5 inline to 3x2, 2x2, or 2x3,
    and from short E or B tuner-to-nut to longer.
     

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