TI Flat dead G-string?

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by Levin, Nov 25, 2012.


  1. Levin

    Levin

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Location:
    Sweden
    Hi! Just bought a set of TI's which sound great, and every tone on all strings are nice except the lowest D on the G-string, which doesn't last for even 1-2 seconds! It just dies shortly after plucked, whereas all the other tones last long. Any ideas if its the string or the bass? I think I installed the strings without messing up.
  2. ljazz

    ljazz Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2002
    Location:
    Cookeville, TN
    Sounds more like a dead spot on your neck (the C# and D are usual suspects). Try putting just a bit more relief in your neck. It sounds like you're losing a bit of "energy" behind the fretted note. I have a g&l that has to run with a bit more relief because of that.... you can actually hear the back rattle with a new set of rounds. Lower your bridge saddles a touch to compensate. I run my action a bit higher anyway with the TIJF's because of the lower tension.
  3. rockinrayduke

    rockinrayduke Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA

    Yep. JF344's require a little different setup than rounds because of the tension and the odd gauges. You might notice you have to raise the A and D string saddles a little more than you would when using rounds. Less tension so the neck flattens out. That expensive G string is just fine.
  4. joelb79

    joelb79 Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Location:
    Lansing, Michigan
    Check your relief and make sure your pickups are not too close which can make the string sustain die prematurely as well (before you call "dead string"). I'm sure Thomastik will help you if the string is dead, in fact.. they better for $70-80 a set!
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  6. SLaPiNFuNK

    SLaPiNFuNK Gold Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2006
    Location:
    LA California
    Disclosures:
    Owner: BassStringsOnline.com
    Yeah this sounds like a setup issue or possibly unlevel frets.

    Changing between string types you will always have to do a setup of some kind. Different strings may also bring out different buzzes and rattles that were not there with other strings.
  7. Levin

    Levin

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Location:
    Sweden
    Yeah, it was the setup alright, haha. Fixed now, thanks for the tips! : ]
  8. rockinrayduke

    rockinrayduke Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
  9. GBassNorth

    GBassNorth

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2006
    Location:
    SoCal
    So a correct set up can eliminate dead spots in some cases? This is great news, I just assumed I had to live with the couple of dull sounding spots on the neck.

    I'll give it a try and see if I can adjust out the dead spots and still have a reasonable action on my worse offending bass.

    Is this the proper order for this set of adjustments:
    lower pickups
    increase relief slightly
    lower bridge to desired action (tune and intonate as needed)
    raise pickups to suit

    If that can't solve the problem, would going to a lower tension string help?

    I can always go the Fat Finger clamp route or try some of the new tuners out there that are specifically made for solving dead spot problems but if it can be done with adjustments I'd like that best.
  10. David Walden

    David Walden

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2013
    I'm having the same issue on a 2005 Fender Fretless MIM Jazz Bass which only occurs with the G-string.
    I installed a set of JF344 strings (actually they are the 4 smallest strings from a set of JF345 strings which I had planned on putting on a 5-string bass but didn't) and noticed "dead" spots at the 6th and 7th fret positions. I realize that every situation is unique, but I was wondering: about how much relief and how much raising of the saddle should work? I used the setup technique described in the set of 4 YouTube Videos by John Carruthers titled Setting Up Your Bass Guitar in which he describes adjusting the truss rod such that with a capo on the 1st fret position and fretting the string where the neck joins the body, the distance from the bottom of the E-string to the fingerboard at about the 7th fret position is 0.015 inch. There was no mention in the video if these setting are applicable on a fretless bass as well, so I set the bass up this way initially and haven't had much luck with eliminating the dead spot by increasing relief and string height so far. I've loosened the truss rod and raised the bridge saddle for the G-string in small increments to double the values recommended but still, the notes do not sound right and decay more rapidly at those fret positions than at others. Thanks in advance.

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