Trussrod Damage

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by stefandisgust, Nov 30, 2013.


  1. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

    Joined:
    May 28, 2006
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    Boston, Massachusetts
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    Spector Basses-New Artist
    Bought a Pedulla bass for dirt cheap because of this issue...I really don't mind paying for the repair (since the bass was a total steal of a price)


    Can anyone look at this and make a guestimate of what kind of work can/will have to be done? I've never dealt with this kind of issue. Anyone know of what kind of cost this may be?

    thanks!- Stefan

    Attached Files:

  2. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    because these Pedullas use the "outie" kind of rods (you use a wrench that resembles and autoharp wrench or drum key, if you don't know what I mean), I'm assuming this one snapped right at the end.

    That pretty much means whole new rod right?
  3. T-Bird

    T-Bird

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    Finland (Northern Europe)
    Hi.

    I may be wrong, but that looks like a normal compressing TR to me. With a bit abnormal failure point, and it does look like there's quite a bit of thread left.

    While IMO the StewMac TR re-threading tool is a rip-off, in this case the fly-cutting reamer that comes with the kit could be used.

    Judging from that pic alone, I'd say ~$50 plus the new nut.

    Regards
    Sam
  4. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Hmmm...I think this may be worse than one may think. I believe the square adjustment head (now gone) is actually part of the rod itself, not a separate truss rod nut per se. That's why we see no signs of scarring or wood compression within the recess itself. You may want to contact Mike Pedulla on this but, IIRC, this is not a cheap fix by any means. Sorry! That being said, here's an alternative that should work:

    Have the string nut professionally removed. From the pic, it appears as the truss rod "stub" is accessible; removing the nut will make it more so. Snag yourself a Dremel tool, flex cable, metal-working burr bits, and maybe a cut-off wheel...all available at Lowe's or Sears. The trick is we want to notch the stub so it will accommodate a conventional flathead screwdriver tip. Caution: the work is tedious and requires a steady hand. Working slowly, use the burr to etch a "l" shaped notch top-to-bottom. The first few passes will be the most difficult as the bit will want to skate around. Use light pressure to minimize this...anything more and you'll snap the bit. Depending on elbow room (which is why we removed the nut), you may be able to create a starter notch on the uppermost aspect with the cut-off wheel.

    I've done this before on a stripped-out 3mm dual acting rod. I was speaking with Mike Lull the other day and he admits to doing the same as a cost-effective alternative.

    Riis
  5. Turnaround

    Turnaround

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    Stefandisgust is right. Pedulla does not use a typical truss rod- it doesn't have a nut on the end. I would contact Pedulla directly and ask them the best way to proceed.
  6. T-Bird

    T-Bird

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
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    Finland (Northern Europe)
    Hi.

    I stand corrected.

    A quick Google image search revealed only one Pedulla TR pic in an old TB thread, and that looks like a different design.

    Would someone be kind enough to post a pic of that said TR.

    Regards
    Sam
  7. Bruce Johnson

    Bruce Johnson Supporting Member

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    Professional Luthier
    Remember that truss rods get broken for a reason. They get snapped off because someone was trying to force a warped neck back to straight, beyond what the truss rod was capable of doing. It doesn't get broken because the neck was fine and needed a small adjustment.

    I'll bet that, in addition to the broken rod, this neck has a significant forward bow, right? If you manage to fix the truss rod by attaching a nut onto it, it isn't going to get any stronger. It will just snap again if you try to straighten the neck with it. It obviously did before.

    The neck needs to be rebuilt. New truss rod, new fingerboard, new frets. I'm not interested in the job myself, but I'd charge about $400. That will make the bass right. Pedulas are fine basses, and well worth repairing.
  8. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    I thank you all for your answers. All really great ideas for someone who bought a fixer-upper.

    Bruce, thank you for including a guestimate price. That's really what I've been after! A price like that is totally doable for me, as far as this project goes. How much is the part? that actual rod. I know that Pedulla truss rods are reversed. Any recommendations. Would I be able to buy a regular ol' hex wrench one instead?

    What would you recommend?
  9. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    Also, I actually have not seen the bass. People swore up and down that the action was great and had been for some time. Again... the price was unreal because the store was going out of business. I wasn't necessarily "had" or "scammed". I plan on getting this puppy fixed! :D
  10. landau roof

    landau roof Reupholstered User Supporting Member

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    It's also possible that someone with limited tools and no experience was coaxed in to DIYing by blowhards online and used the wrong wrench for the job thus stripping the nutt.
  11. Kmonk

    Kmonk

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    Endorsing Artist: Fender and Spector, Ampeg, Curt Mangan Strings
    Since you are from Boston, have you tried contacting Pedulla? They are in Rockland, Mass about 25 miles south of Boston. You can contact them via email at christin@tiac.net
  12. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    Just called the seller a minute ago. Very honest guy. Said he played it for a long time, went to sell it (including photograph it) and noticed that some dumbass had broken it.

    Anyways... he mentioned being a fan of incredibly low action and that this bass always felt great to him. he said the bass most likely had some heavy/medium strings on it (he put the originals back on to ship to me)
  13. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    I noticed in the photos that it didn't look orginal. To me it actually looks better than the original bridge on these basses. haha. At least on this particular model.


    I'm also aware of how close to Pedulla's shop I actually am. However, those prices on his website (parts, services, even merch) ...OUCH.

    Judging by the saddle screws and wear on the pickup...this guy WAS able to get his low action that he wanted. This is good news I suppose. Means the neck isn't looking totally back bowed just yet. Correct?

    Attached Files:

  14. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Again, there is no nut on these bad buys. The rod is a one piece threaded assembly with a square-shaped dinkus or nubbin at the end. If you look closely at the sheared end of the rod in the OP's pic, you can just barely make out the the corresponding square silhouette where the dinkus separated from the balance of the rod. As kmonk and others have suggested, call Pedulla & co. for the full dope. I don't think you'll be happy with the answer but who knows? FWIW: there's a reason they place a "warning" sticker in the truss rod recess...I don't know of any other manufacturer who follows this practice.

    Riis
  15. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Mike uses the traditional bent-plate on the Rapture but I've seen a couple lately sporting different hardware. The other, listed in TB classifieds, had a Kahler non-trem.

    Sorry but the state of saddle positioning and pickup wear says nothing about the health of the neck.

    Edit & reality check: I paid $800 for my Rapture with fully functioning neck, truss rod, and correct tool. When all is said and done, I truly hope this remains the bargain you anticipated. Please re-read my earlier repair tutorial; it really does work in the majority of cases. I don't make this $%&* up.

    Another edit: Pedulla's entry for "repair trussrod" on the TB and Rapture series is replace neck - $750 + old neck.

    Riis
  16. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    thank you again for all the info. I've researched my ass off on this today. I keep seeing this $400 figure to pul that rod out and reconstruct the neck. It's almost as if this was the standard price for this work.
    To me, that's much better than $750. Also, truth is...the Pedulla wrench is nothing more than an auto-harp wrench.
  17. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Is that a conventional neck with either single-acting or dual-acting truss rod or a Pedulla neck with proprietary truss rod design?

    Riis
  18. stefandisgust

    stefandisgust

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    Not sure. oh lord...does he now use his own freakin' truss rod too?
  19. Bruce Johnson

    Bruce Johnson Supporting Member

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    The $400 that I quoted is what I would charge to rebuild that Pedulla neck, including making up a new truss rod assembly to match the original parts. The adjustment end could be square drive, hex drive, socket hex drive, or whatever you wanted. I make all my own truss rod hardware, to whatever design is needed. Many of us small builders make up our own truss rods, or have the parts made up to our own designs.

    I think that Pedulla used a double-acting double-rod type truss rod assembly, similar in design to Stew-Mac's Hot Rod, but with the square drive head. You have to remove the fingerboard, but it should be easy enough to get out and fit in a replacement. A commercially available rod can probably be made to fit. Or a custom replacement can be made up. You just have to look at it and measure it. Most of the cost of the repair work is in the fingerboard and fret replacement.

    It's possible that the neck works fine as it is, with the truss rod end broken off. Possible, but not likely, in my experience. You'll just have to get it in your hands and see.
  20. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

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    Oh, hell yeah. It's essentially a single piece threaded assembly which explains why it uses an autoharp key. As far as I can tell, the entire rod turns and is somehow anchored at the body end...I'm sure somebody else can embellish on the design. The neck is channeled for this particular rod so it is no longer a question of doing a one-for-one swap with a more widely used component...some modifications will be required and at some added expense, I would guess. The rod itself is probably fully functional...unfortunately, the dinkus is not and that is, in its normal state, what allows adjustability. The thrust of my argument is this: okay, the rod no longer accepts an autoharp wrench...can we make it accept a flathead screwdriver?

    Edit: Looks like Bruce Johnson can fabricate and install a near-identical rod for far less than what Pedulla would charge for a replacement neck. Big savings!

    Riis

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