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Wiring diagram - will this work?

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by reverendrally, Dec 31, 2013.

  1. reverendrally

    reverendrally

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    Right, with a neck and body outside drying I've got some time to devote to wiring diagrams.

    What I have is this...
    1xMM PU with individual coil outputs
    3 x DPST mini switches

    What I want is this...
    Killswitch for coil 1
    Killswitch for coil 2
    Series/parallel switch

    Basically I want to treat the MM like I have two single coils right next to each other with series/para options

    [​IMG]

    What I'm wondering is, if I just remove the neck (far left) PU & switch, could I use the rest of the diagram as is, or is there something I need to change?

    P.s. Happy new year. :thumbup:
  2. line6man

    line6man

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    That's not going to work at all.

    In order to do what you've described, you will need at least five poles for the series/parallel switch. This is because the means soloing a coil are different, depending on whether the coils are in series, or parallel. In series, you must shunt the coils, or more preferably, remove them from the circuit and replace them with a shunt, in order to reduce hum. In parallel, you must disconnect the coils from the circuit, but not shunt anything. If a coil is shunted, while in a parallel-wired circuit, neither coil will be audible, because both will shunt. If a coil is disconnected without proper shunting, in a series-wired circuit, neither coil will be audible, because there will not be a complete circuit for the audible coil.

    Perhaps it would be a better idea to choose a four position rotary toggle switch, or a five-position blade-style switch, wired for series, parallel, north coil, and south coil. When done with one switch, only two poles are required.
  3. toomanyslurpees

    toomanyslurpees

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    I case it's of interest you can do what you're talking about with a single 4 position 3 pole rotary switch. I did this when I changed my 3eq stingray to a 2eq and figured I'd do it to fill in the empty hole in the plate. The colours are for the Nordstrand MM 4.2...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  4. friedtransistor

    friedtransistor

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    These wiring diagrams always make my head hurt. Sorry, can't help ya here. Personally, I find it easier to decipher a schematic of a drum machine than this...
  5. line6man

    line6man

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    Three-pole switching is unnecessarily over-complicated for a four-position switch. It can be done with two poles.
  6. toomanyslurpees

    toomanyslurpees

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    Just curious how you'd do that with two poles?, I just don't see it.
  7. line6man

    line6man

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    [​IMG]

    The only disadvantage is the fact that the entire neck pickup's coil connects to the output when the bridge pickup is soloed, and this has the potential to cause hum, but it's common practice to do it this way. Especially for north coil/series/south coil switching on mini toggles.
  8. toomanyslurpees

    toomanyslurpees

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    Ah! Gotcha... that is simpler...When I did this, the three pole switch is what the electronics shop had so I went with it. Tell you the truth I don't actually use either coil soloed ever, I do like having the series option on a stingray, especially on the fretless but it all began as not wanting to have a pot doing nothing in my control plate....
  9. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Gold Supporting Member

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    what's the point of having one single coil and the other single coil? the difference is not gonna be all that much since they're right against each other.

    i say just use a DPDT on-on-on for three distinct settings, series/single coil/parallel.

    (i like the idea of the rotary switch with the regular MM knob on it; a friend always called this a "secret sauce" mod, where everything still looked stock.)
  10. line6man

    line6man

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    Truth.

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