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1x12 cab building

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Mk90, May 21, 2020.


  1. Mk90

    Mk90

    May 1, 2020
    I'm planning to build myself a 12" cab and I want to make sure I got everything about right. I've spent the last week scouring these forums and some others for tips and plans and I still have some uncertainties here.

    I'm looking to build as mobile a rig as possible using the ashdown ant or te elf. The cab would be used for practice at home and small gigs and around 150w at 8ohm with single 12" would cover my needs and then some 95% of the time. Bigger gigs I would still go straight to board. For a light cab I'm looking to get somewhere around 10kg or less and for my untrained eyes I have trouble seeing how I couldn't recreate something like the te bassbox.

    Questions for now:

    1) As far as budget goes, I can see how you are not going to save money when building 4x10 or bigger. But with just one 12" driver I don't see myself going over 200€ even if everything didn't go as I planned. What am I missing here?

    2) I have narrowed my driver to basslite s2012. Mainly because the price seems right and according to forums you aren't far off with eminence anyway. Am I correct assuming this? If I understand it correctly it should handle both my amp choices ok with 8 ohms. How about the frequencies? I would like it to have a convincing low B. Tuning cabs was a completely new concept for me so I have no input here. Online calculators give me enough information that I can build it but I have no idea what all the numbers Actually mean.

    3) I would like to have the option to add another one of the same cabinet to this in the future if all goes well. I understand it would be possible to add a terminal in the back that is wired so that the additional cab would be parallel? That way I could have the option to have 1x12" at 8 ohms for 130-150w or 2x 1x12" at 4 ohms for the full 200w, correct?
     
    The Owl and pie_man_25 like this.
  2. chandman1004

    chandman1004 Supporting Member

    Jun 28, 2008
    Mk90 likes this.
  3. chandman1004

    chandman1004 Supporting Member

    Jun 28, 2008
    Just noticed my link starts in the middle of the thread, you might need to go to page one
     
  4. Mk90

    Mk90

    May 1, 2020
    Seems very helpful! I'll bookmark this and read through when I get home. It does seem to be nearly exactly what I'm looking for. I'm still looking to go 12" but as I am yet to actually buy anything, that might still change.
     
  5. basscooker

    basscooker Commercial User

    Apr 11, 2010
    cincy ky
    Owner, ChopShopAmps
    The budget goes haywire with finishing details and tools. If you dont need any tools and already have consumables like sandpaper, PL or similar adhesive, fasteners and bits/blades, you arent going to spend a lot out of pocket.

    How about a grill? One-off from metal fab shop is my suggestion, and they'll probably have something in their scrap pile that will do.

    The hardware like corners, handle (s), connection plate, stand-off support for the grill and t-nuts can really start to add up when paying retail. Factor in associated fasteners too. Tolex or Duratex isn't really cheap either. None of this accounts for your time. You can see how a decent new cab at retail from a manufacturer can get up in the 3 and 4 hundred dollar range quickly, even considering economy of scale buying wholesale bulk.

    Good luck! I suggest for sure paying close attention to Eminence suggested box volumes for the driver and porting.
     
  6. Mk90

    Mk90

    May 1, 2020
    That's what I thought. Awesome. Aesthetics don't affect sound and I kind of like the idea of a rubbish looking cab. A true diy-look and it would also fit the main gigging bands image.

    Also I somehow already felt like the only way to skyrocket the price is if I also had to buy all the tools and pay myself an hourly wage.
     
  7. One issue I always have with any build or project is overanalyzing the task. This is your cab, a 110 could work but you say that you want a 10kg/22 pound 112 cab with an eminence basslite. Grab some 1/4" Birch ply (6-8mm), make a smallish ported box with the specs that eminence puts up, and brace the heck out of it.

    Don't get caught up with analysis paralysis - make mock-ups or preferably just drawings of three different cabs that fit your criteria, and then build the one that seems ideal. Sometimes having too many options just bogs you down into minute details and might even turn you off of the build entirely.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
    Mk90 likes this.
  8. Redbrangus

    Redbrangus Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Under The X In Texas
    @basscooker's advice and observations are all good ones. Another TB'er, @fdeck, has a good, simple design that uses the Deltalite 12 at this site: Francis J. Deck That one could be adapted to your purpose. He's also got a lot of other good info, and a spreadsheet and speaker design program that would probably be informative for you to experiment with.

    Edit: If you think you might want to build a 112 box like fdeck's, consider his statement that if he were to do it over again, he wouldn't use the 'shelf' port and would just do a round port on another face of the box.

    Your presumptions about power handling all seem good: 2 x 8-ohm cabs = 4-ohm total load = full power and plenty of power-handling capability.

    Good luck with it, and welcome to TB. :bassist:
     
    duncmill, yodedude2, 1n3 and 2 others like this.
  9. Mk90

    Mk90

    May 1, 2020
    Great advice and fear not, I'm fairly certain that just about anything I do will be better than the little 30w combo I have used for the last 15 years for home practicing. Also just having things built by myself seems overly exciting.

    This is great. Very well documented.


    Looking at the eminence suggestions I now se that there are specs for ultra light version and that would seem to fit the bill. The f3 in that is 64hz though and as far as I understand I would want to get closer 62hz to at least hit the low B harmonics. Not considering the analysis paralysis part is that difference between 62-64hz negligible? I'm just learning all this stuff as for the last 10 years of gigging I've just used whatever I got my hands on and never really stopped to think these things.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
    pie_man_25 likes this.
  10. I'm not sure, in all honesty, that an f3 2hz higher than your target would make much real world difference. Of course, I'm far from a subject matter expert and a lot of my energy is being devoted to a very different sector.
     
  11. Redbrangus

    Redbrangus Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Under The X In Texas
    For F3? Yes. Negligible.
     
    Mk90 likes this.
  12. fdeck

    fdeck Supporting Member Commercial User

    Mar 20, 2004
    Madison WI
    HPF Technology LLC
    Getting that close on the first try would be Nobel Prize material. ;)

    As I understand it, there's enough uncertainty in the design parameters that you can only get so close. One thing you can do is a "poor mans tolerance analysis," where you vary each parameter by hand and see what happens to the curves. This is easy to do in WinISD, which lets you see two designs at once. Make them both identical except for the parameter that you want to change. For instance, bump f3 up and down by a couple Hz.
     
  13. nilorius

    nilorius Inactive

    Oct 27, 2016
    Riga - Latvia
    Why would you just buy a normal 112 cab, let's say 250-300w cab and get satisfied.
     
    pie_man_25 likes this.
  14. Mk90

    Mk90

    May 1, 2020
    Several reasons really. If I'm leaving out the cosmetics and all that, I'm looking at something around 150€ total, which is at least 100€ less than the cheapest 1x12" I can find new. When looking at something used I might get them cheaper but shipping costs grow exponentially with something this heavy and I would uduallu end up paying the same as a new cab. If I'm looking to buy something that would be as light as I like, the costs go way up again. So there aren't a lot of products with the features I want in the price range I'm ready to pay. The small 100w combos come REALLY close but with those I'm making compromises I don't want to do. Also being able to say I made something myself has HUGE satisfactory value you can't really put a price on.
     
    pie_man_25 likes this.
  15. nilorius

    nilorius Inactive

    Oct 27, 2016
    Riga - Latvia
    As i understand - you have no experience at building bass cabs, so why do you think the money you will maintain will give you the final result on your cab sounding at the finals ?!?
     
    pie_man_25 likes this.
  16. Mk90

    Mk90

    May 1, 2020
    My dear dude this is why people worry too much with the earlier mentioned analysis paralysis. I come from not bothering to upgrade my practice setup from a 30w behringer combo for 15 years because I will have better stuff to use at the gig anyway. I'm finally taking a step forward and pretty much anything is an upgrade. I would also remind the earlier post about the value of making things yourself.

    Anyway I belive I'm now set for the eminence suggested cab specs for the ultralight ported and see where I get from there. Next stop is the hardware store and materials.

    When bracing the walls, does it need to be opposite walls on the inside, or would it be sufficient just to strengthen the walls from the outside? Sort of like old wooden crates? I feel this would help measuring the space inside but I need someone to verify it's not doing more harm or even not helping at all.
     
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  17. yodedude2

    yodedude2 Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2005
    san antonio, texas
    i made myself a pair of 110 using the s2010 speakers by using the 'duke' suggestion as a guide. i researched the parts express cabinet and replicated the interior volume and port shelf volume. worked okay. my biggest issue was getting everything square. being off even a tiny bit becomes very obvious very quickly. i used grilles, speaker input cups, handles, and corners that were ready-made to save myself grief and time. wire the speaker inputs in parallel to daisy-chain cabs.

    be sure your interior volume measurements account for any protrusions into the space such as handles, braces, and of course the speaker.

    i have never considered and don't recall ever seeing a speaker cab with the bracing on the exterior. it is an interesting concept and would give a pretty unique look.

    here's a link to an old crate amp ad. might end up looking something like it: Original Crate CR-1 1x12 Amp in Wooden Crate Vintage 1978! COOL! | Top 40 Guitars | Reverb
     
    pie_man_25 likes this.
  18. Redbrangus

    Redbrangus Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Under The X In Texas
    IME, when using thin panels--1/2"(12mm) or thinner--if you cross-brace between opposite sides, you mostly just transfer the vibrations between the two panels; you make a larger resonating system. Adding reinforcement at the joints --inside or out-- doesn't do anything to damp resonating panels, but it does help reinforce the joinery. Have you looked at the Greenboy fEARful pages? That girdle-type bracing system would work a lot better than just cross-bracing opposite panels. In fact, have you considered building the 12 sub from there? It's only 2.3 cu.ft. and just a single 12...or possibly you could adapt that concept to something you think would be more suitable to your own design.

    You can figure out the total volume occupied by the bracing fairly easily, and Eminence gives you the volume the driver occupies, I think. Keep in mind that it isn't a particularly exacting 'science''; accumulated errors under 10% is close enough for rock in my book. ("Close enough for jazz" is a much more exacting standard to me. :) )
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
    Passinwind and pie_man_25 like this.
  19. I did my own cab about 10 years ago just for fun and took some external/internal measurements from a similar Carvin cab that the Carvin NE15 neo 4 ohm driver was used for. I just built it how I thought would make sense and later tuned the port o 52hz.. It’s not a low end beast but very tight and growls nicely with my SWR 350 red face with the aural enhancer bypassed (sounds like a GK 800rb with a Mesa 15 road ready cab) I use this in 2 original rock projects and my band mates love the sound. Never boomy and gets loud as heck while staying very even sounding throughout. And weighs right around 30 lbs. Point of building a DIY is to learn something and have fun doing it.

    B505A317-9F62-4CDA-9CA9-9BA11A0DC588.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  20. 74hc

    74hc

    Nov 19, 2015
    Sunny California
    Something that escapes us many times in threads like these.
     
    jthisdell, La Faro, DJ Bebop and 4 others like this.
  21. Primary

    Primary TB Assistant

    Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.

     
    Mar 1, 2021

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