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212 Sub Build

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by deeptubes, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. deeptubes


    Feb 21, 2011
    Ok, everybody. Here's what I'm thinking. I just sold my old 4Runner. I didn't include the 212 sub cab I had in the back. I am contemplating building a vertical 212 and slapping those bad boys in there. They are each 4 ohms, I would wire them in series. Frequency response is 25-800 Hz, 400w each. The 3" horn tweeter I'm looking at would be 1k-15k. Anyone think that missing frequency gap would be an issue? I suppose I could add a pair of 6's, if necessary. Also, any issues with installing a pair of input/output jacks wired in series to potentially connect this 8 ohm cab with a 4 ohm 810 cab that I already own? Certainly don't want to screw up my SWR 810, or my GK head. I think this idea is sound in theory (key words: I think).
  2. shaginwagin


    Apr 2, 2012
    Id do it. Or try it at least... I've contemplated doing the same thing people sell car audio stuff cheap now adays.

    Although id leave out the tweet and just put a mid or two in.

    Id run grille cloth over them too,,, car subs are usually a little over the top looks wise.
  3. Don't waste your time.

    Car audio is worlds apart from pro music.
  4. Most auto subs are low efficiency and designed for sealed cabs.
    The sensitivity is very low, so they are quite power hungry.

    Wiring them in series will give you 8 ohms, but you lose the +6dB loudness gain from parallel wiring.
    Car subs aren't much good above a couple hundred Hz, so mid-bass drivers are required.
    Six inch drivers such as the Alpha 6 don't handle much power below 500 Hz.

    As commented above, Bad Idea all around.
    Very fiddly, much tweaking involved, and disappointing results.
    BTW, I own a number of Rockford RFR-2210 and RFR-2215 car sub drivers...
    Been there, done that.
  5. shaginwagin


    Apr 2, 2012
    Id still do it anyway... but I don't have anything better to do. :p
  6. deeptubes


    Feb 21, 2011
    I intend to do it. I'm looking more for the "make sure you..." advice, as opposed to the naysayers. If they don't work out, I'll still be able to learn something from doing it. These speakers aren't some flimsy $25 Radio Shack sale specials. They are some serious, heavy duty, beasts - Kenwood KFC-W3011. They don't have a cone, they have a stainless steel bowl and are attached with thick, soft rubber. I built the cab for the vehicle. Had 'em in my Jeep, totaled the Jeep, and they survived. Put 'em in the 4Runner, they outlasted the 4Runner. Don't need them in my new Mazda 3 or wifey's Corolla. But, I would like to utilize them. These things are absolutely BRUTAL! They've been able to handle anything I throw at them. If I do a speaker/tweeter cab, I will miss out on a small frequency range - 800-1k Hz. I may end up doing something along the line of a 3-way fEARful build. Just trying to plan it out right now.
  7. shaginwagin


    Apr 2, 2012
    Found this... http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Mobile/App/Product/Item/Specs.aspx?i=113W3011&tp=111Specs for box and port sizes.

    Those speakers aren't very efficient so you will need alot of power to get em moving. Should be cool though. Go with a power amp run off your existing head/preamp, one per channel or together if it'll bridge to 2 ohms. Oh and use a ported box, its more efficient for producing lowest of low frequencies.

    Good luck!

    Oh and I take back the grill cloth comment. Those speakers are sick, show em off!
  8. lowfreq33


    Jan 27, 2010
    Endorsing Artist: Genz Benz Amplification
    I'd say you'll definitely want a mid driver. Those drivers may go up to 800, but is that +/- 3 db? 10? 15?
  9. shaginwagin


    Apr 2, 2012
    ^^^ +1
  10. will33


    May 22, 2006
    If you're hellbent on doing this, just put an input jack in the sub box that was in the car and play it. That should tell you whether or not you want to put the time in on a further cab build with tweeters and stuff. I'm betting not. If the sub box had a built in amp, disconnect all that stuff and just wire them to a jack to plug your bass amp into. Leave the built in sub amp or whatever is in there mounted in the box to seal it, don't leave a big hole where the amp used to be. Just disconnect all it's wiring so all you have is your new input jack and the speakers. Car subs are usually pretty low impedance, like 1 or 2 ohms. Probably have to wire them in series to be agreeable with your bass amp.

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