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92 peavey fury truss rod adjustment

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Sahe_Bassist, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. hey all, when i searched most of the threads had older peavey furys (80's models) in question.

    i have a 92 peavey (split pup) fury - is the truss rod adjustment the gibson style 5/16" socket type, or an allen style wrench?

    mine has a black ring around the hole for the TR adjustment slot - it looks like an allen, but i could be wrong. most of the pictures i see of other furys have a much bigger TR access hole.
  2. NicJimBass

    NicJimBass Is this thing on!? Supporting Member

    Nov 22, 2004
    Lancaster, OH
    64 Audio · DR Strings · Source Audio · Hipshot
    I have a '92, and it takes a 5/16" socket. Can you post a pic of yours?
  3. i dont have a pic of mine right now, but i found a thread that has what looks to be the exact same as mine (white body/white guard/maple neck ect), but 4 years newer.

    notice the second picture, of the headstock. thats what mine looks like. it doesnt have a TR cover, and has a bar style string retainer.

    as oposed to this one (from an '87 model)
    notice the spot for a TR cover, and the larger hole/route.
  4. I have a 94 and it's a 5/16 on mine.
  5. Later '94 and after had an allen nut. If yours has the VFL style Pickups it is most likely allen. If it has superferites or transition pickups it is most likely 5/16. "92 tends to indicate the 5/16, but your discription of the black covering the truss slot end makes me think that at least the neck is '94 or newer and it will have an allen nut.

    EDIT: Sorry, I was on a Foundation tangent when I talked about the pickups, but the truss rod slot still makes me think it is 94 or later and an allen nut.
  6. georgestrings

    georgestrings Banned

    Nov 5, 2005
    My '93 Fury uses a 5/16 socket wrench, just like a Gibson...

    - georgestrings
  7. http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130708_215001_zpsfa13b9d7.jpg

    Looks like an allen to me....I don't know how many owners its had, but I think that it may be stripped.
  8. NicJimBass

    NicJimBass Is this thing on!? Supporting Member

    Nov 22, 2004
    Lancaster, OH
    64 Audio · DR Strings · Source Audio · Hipshot
    Definitely an allen wrench, and it does look stripped. If you are competent with tools, you may be able to remove it yourself. Otherwise, take it to a pro, and get it removed and replaced.
  9. Do the Allen head adjustments unscrew like the socket ones? Or are we talking about a significant amount of work?
  10. NicJimBass

    NicJimBass Is this thing on!? Supporting Member

    Nov 22, 2004
    Lancaster, OH
    64 Audio · DR Strings · Source Audio · Hipshot
    They are just a nut that unscrews and removes completely. Since the head is stripped, the trick is to find something that will grab onto the inside of the nut enough to loosen it. The first couple turns will be the hardest, after that, it should come right out. I would suggest using something like a file, with a tip you can kinda jam into the nut. The file grooves will give you some extra friction, and the whole thing will act similar to a screwdriver. Conversely, you may be able to use a larger allen wrench, possibly tapped in (lightly) with a hammer.
  11. thanks for the info, after some searching i found some other threads as well for the removal of this type of TR nut. ill see what i can do.

    now then, once i have it out i have to replace it. do you think the fender "bullet" style TR nut from stewmac will fit it?

    also, after some other searching - the bass seems to be a 95/96 model instead of a 92. i cant remember where i came up with 92, but i wrote down the serial and doubled checked it against the peavey serial dating wiki. sorry for the confusion earlier.

    serial - 08203538
  12. mech

    mech Supporting Member

    Jun 20, 2008
    Meridian, MS, USA
    I've had good success removing stripped Allen drive truss rod nuts with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Insert the tip in the recess and then angle the screwdriver so the "blades" on the tip engage whats left of the "points" of the Allen recess. A good deal of downward and sideways force may be necessary to maintain the angle and engagement for the first few turns.

  13. alright - as per your advice, i called peavey today and they are sending me one no charge! thats what i call service! hopefully that will be here in a couple days and then i can have a go at removing the old one.
  14. a little update - after a couple phone calls to peavey, they finally have it coming in the mail (someone called me and told me they were actually putting it in the mail, and double check my address, 08/22/13). ill update again after receiving it.

    it took 3 phone calls to get them to do what they said they would on the first call in july(in there defense i waited 3 weeks before calling again to ask about it), but they are always very polite and willing to help. all in all a good expierence so far (as long as it actually shows up).
  15. recieved the new nut yesterday (8/25).

    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_201528_zps88e2c3f4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_201528_zps88e2c3f4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_201528_zps88e2c3f4.jpg"/></a>

    new nut on the left, old one (after i finally got it out) on the right

    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_222644_zpsa933a2e3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_222644_zpsa933a2e3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_222644_zpsa933a2e3.jpg"/></a>

    old on left, new on right
    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_222716_zpsf71609b8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_222716_zpsf71609b8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_222716_zpsf71609b8.jpg"/></a>

    new on left, old on right
    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_222829_zpsbce4c36a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_222829_zpsbce4c36a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_222829_zpsbce4c36a.jpg"/></a>

    i started to unscrew the nut and could get it all the way off the rod, but i couldnt get it out of the hole. i ended up using the correct size allen key and kind of bracing it on the side of the nut so the key would get stuck and i was able to turn it out. i tried the screw driver trick first but i dont have a flat head small/sturdy enough for the project.

    a little searching brought up some vague youtube videos about the black ring around the TR adjustment hole actually being a plug so it cant just fall out. i heated up the old sodering iron and it turns out the plug is made of plastic so i a heck of a time getting it cleared out. its a little rough looking, but i plan on sanding it nice, and then painting it black again.

    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_223037_zpsa79d2a2e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_223037_zpsa79d2a2e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_223037_zpsa79d2a2e.jpg"/></a>

    after that it came right out though.

    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_223027_zps1080d4bf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_223027_zps1080d4bf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_223027_zps1080d4bf.jpg"/></a>

    after gettting the old one out and comparing the two, i was worried that them being different would be a problem, but the treads were the same on the new one and after a few attempts i got it to go on. its shorter than the old one and i was able to get the neck relief to just over .381 before it became very hard to turn. im pretty sure that has the new nut all the way down, so if/when it ever needs to be tighter, ill have to get a couple washers to put under it. but as of now, its fixed and has a full set up done to my specs, and plays better than ever.

    headstock after finishing
    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_233926_zps2ac549d1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_233926_zps2ac549d1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_233926_zps2ac549d1.jpg"/></a>

    a full shot of the bass after i finished the set up and made sure everything was right.

    <a href="http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/patehas/media/20130825_233839_zps54be9308.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/patehas/20130825_233839_zps54be9308.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130825_233839_zps54be9308.jpg"/></a>

    all and all not a terribly hard job. that plug was pretty annoying but other than that pretty straight forward. thanks everyone for the advice! :hyper:
  16. mech

    mech Supporting Member

    Jun 20, 2008
    Meridian, MS, USA
    Glad it worked out. Peavey does shut down for a week in July for vacation. That probably affected the time to get the part.


    edit: Good looking bass.
  17. a july vacation could have been the issue. i dont know for sure, but they made right and im happy with the results. i even got a hand wrtten note in the package by the woman who i was speaking to on the phone last (the one who took the time to call me back and double check my info).

    and thank you, im glad you like it. i for sure do. its got its fair share of dents, dings, paint chips, and mojo, but what can you expect from a 17y/o bass? its got alot of character, and makes a great p-bass.