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A Few Questions on My New Hartke

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by mikarre, Nov 8, 2003.

  1. mikarre

    mikarre Guest

    I bought an amp today, which hopefully will be my amp for many moons to come. It's a Hartke HA5000. Thanks to everyone here who helped me with all my amp questions. I came to the conclusion that I may as well invest in a decent and powerful amp now so I don't have to upgrade in the near future. I plan to match it with a pair of cabinets eventually, so I can run it at the full 500 watts. If I ever end up with a guitarist that overpowers me with my 500 watts I'll either quit the band or smash his amp!

    A few questions:

    1) The amp runs biamped at 170 watts per side @ 8 ohms. Does that mean when in mono mode it will be running at 340 watts @ 8 ohm? The guy at the music store seemed to think so, but I could see the little question marks floating over his head so I wonder.

    2) The amp came in some kind of metal shell. It is not rack mountable in it's present condition due to this metal case it's in. I planned to mount it in a new rack bag I bought. It looks like I can just get out the old screwdriver and remove this metal case, except for the big bolt on the bottom. (?) Is this easy enough? It's a nice metal case. It seems very protective and has little rubber feet, but I'd rather it in the rack bag. I assumed all Hartke heads are rackmountable. Do I just need to remove this metal case, or do I have a different version of this amp than the rack mount one?

    Thats' all for now. Soon I'll have a slew of question on what cabinets to get.;)
  2. The 0x

    The 0x

    Aug 24, 2003
    Timonium, MD
    And I will have a slew of answers for you that will either be avatar or Yorkville.:D
  3. Zentner

    Zentner Supporting Member

    Did your amp come with an "owner's manual" ???
  4. mikarre

    mikarre Guest

    Indeed it did. I read it cover to cover twice and could not find the answers to my questions.
  5. mikarre,
    Hope this post if more helpful than the last one.

    If run mono it will still have the same output. It is not bridgeable.
    If you run two 4 ohm cabs or four 8ohm cabs instead, the power will increase to 250w.

    I owned the 7000 and very much regret getting rid of it. have been looking for another out here in Thailand for over a year now.
  6. White_Knight


    Mar 19, 2000
  7. hyperlitem

    hyperlitem Guest

    Jul 25, 2001
    Indianapolis, IN
    i feel stupid for not knowing this but my 7000 i owned was rackmountable. I bought it in a rack and never took it out. Go to a hartke dealer and they'll be able to hook you up.
  8. mikarre

    mikarre Guest

    Thanks Spike, definately much more helpful. There seems to be some mis-information floating around about this amp, as there are some people (including music store emloyees) saying it will run at 500 watts into 4 ohm when in mono mode, but what you are saying seems more consistant with what is in the manual. I was planning on 2 cabs eventually anyway, so I guess I'll have to get 4 ohm cabs instead of 8.

    One thing though, is 250 watts per side similar, better, or worse than a single 500 watt amp? I chose this amp over the 3500 b/c I reasoned that I would get greater overall power output from it. I hope I made the right choice.:confused: Is 2x250 watts more powerful and a single 350 watt? Logically I would assume so, but maybe I am wrong.
  9. mikarre

    mikarre Guest

    I feel stupid myself for not figuring it out before I posted. After I started tinkering with it today I saw how the rack accessories fit onto the amp without having to tear everything apart like I originally thought. I took the rubber bumpers and rubber feet off and attached the rack ears. I didn't like it so much in the rack bag though so I took it out and put it back the way it was. Maybe I'll change my mind in the future. At least I have the option, I guess.
  10. Up until about 3.5 months ago, I was an avid Hartke enthusiast...Then I realized a fatal design flaw in hartke's amps...The heatsink has vital power amp parts on it, and no real ventilation, all the fan blow goes straight through to the 10 band....The heatsink gets hot...I mean really hot...I temp'd mine at about 130+...I didn;t have a good enough thermometer to get the full temp but is registered 133 before I took it away...2 of the large white resistors(ceramic I believe) Popped...with a nice fireworks ceremony...Good for the pyros in the crowd, not for me, considering I was in the middle of a gig...I need rid of this damn contraption so I can get an amp I don't have a grudge against.Anyone want a hartke that need repairs...Can't even give it away!My advice...get out before it screws up on you...Don't get me wrong, they're faithful amps, up until the moment you need them most...and pow something goes out.
  11. I'm also kind of confuzed about this amp. Does this mean that I can run two 4 ohm cabinets to get the full 500 watts? And if so will this be 500 watts as it says or will it be lower? I would also like to know the difference between this amp and a plain amp that just runs at 500 watts. Please help.
  12. The 5000 consists of essentially two discrete 250 watt (at 4 ohms) amplifiers, which are not "bridgeable." This means that both amps (or "sides") cannot be made to work together to produce a mono output into one speaker load. If you've only got one cab, you've only got the benefit of what one side will produce with that load (one 8 ohm cab, 170 watts RMS; one 4 ohm cab, 250 watts RMS). Therefore, to "get the most out" of this amp (or the model 7000 for that matter) you have to have at least two cabs, one for each "side" of the amp, and preferably 4 ohm cabs. So, yeah, it might be better to have the 3500 if you've got (and will stay with) only one cab. But I don't think it'd be dramatic. The 3500 does 240 watts RMS @ 8 ohms, a difference of only 70 watts.

    Don't worry about the dependability issue. I think the airflow/cooling scheme in these works pretty well. Every product has its bad samples, some more than others.

    It's good you found how the rack ears attach, and that you got them with the purchase (as it should be). If I were you I'd find some sort of case to put it in, because with just those rubber edge deals on there, the front panel knobs are really vulnerable. The original models 3500, 5000, and 7000 had a solid faceplate extended out with the rack ears built into it. I don't know when they made the change to the present design, but it's not a very transportable idea. A rack bag is good, but an inexpensive wooden carpet covered two space rack (Grundorf, U.S.A., Sonic, and others make them for less than $75) is even better. Keeps things nice and tidy, and you can put your stuff on top during the gig. I hate going into gear stores and seeing used amps that have their front panels all messed up with knobs (and pot shafts) missing, graphic sliders missing, etc.