action at first fret is higher than anywhere else on neck

Add a little relief. Most basses need a little. Could be a high fret.

If none of these ideas helps, maybe take it in for a pro set-up.

 

I never set up a bass without any relief. When the string plays it bends into a curve, I like my necks to reflect some of that curve.

I agree that when the first fret is hard to play, it's irritating! You might like to consider cutting yourself a new nut rather than risking the current one, and seeing if you can improve the action that way.

 

(If I could ask - Please let's not turn this into a "the neck should have some relief" discussion. I've set my basses up like this for years with no problems so I know it's doable. There's just a particular problem with this bass that I'd like to solve.)

Thanks for your wisdom and assistance guys!

Art[/QUOTE]

Sounds like the nut needs work.

 

my setup procedure (youll need a set of feeler guages):

1) tune to pitch

2) adjust truss rod off until you have about 3 to 5 thousandths of relief, retuning after each adjustment...this is basically dead straight

3) capo at 1st fret

4) adjust bridge height, then intonation, then recheck bridge height (itlll change just a hair from the saddles sliding around). Usually end up with about 3/128ths of an inch from the bottom of the g string to the top of the 12th fret, and about 5/128ths for the E string. This is pretty low.

5) move capo to 2nd fret
using feeler guages again, measure distance from bottom of string to top of third fret, for each string (lets call this number x)

6) move capo to 1st fret, measure distances at 2nd frets (lets call this number y)

7) get the difference between those to numbers (lets call this number D = y - x), and thats how much higher the string should be at the first fret than it is at second. (D + y)

8) put a feeler guage of the proper thickness (which you just calculated) on the first fret, and cut the slots until your string just barely touches it.

Wham, dead on balls perfect setup with no trial and error......assuming the fretwork is done properly........which is a mighty big assumption

For all the feeler guage stuff it helps to put a lamp other side of the bass so that you can see when that sliver of light disappears

 

That's GOOD advice right there.

 

and forgot to mention...do all measurements and tuning with the bass in playing position

 

sorry man, dont know anyone down thataway

Also, just thought Id mention it, but youll never get the action on a short scale bass down as far as you can on a long, theres just not enough tension and the strings vibrate in too large a circle. If you really want it to play as fast and nice as possible youll need to put some heavy strings on to get the tension up to where it would be on a long scale with regular guage strings...but then you loose some of that short scale vibe of course.

 

The frets closest to the nut will always take the most effort to play. You're pressing down an inch from where the string is anchored. The angle of the string in relation to the fret board is steepest at the first fret. Same reason it's easy to bend a string at the 12th fret but damn near impossible to bend a string at the first fret.

 

Have you tried calling Scott about this? He will steer you in the right direction if he can.

 

Thats ashame about the zero fret bein removed etc. A properly done z-fret instrument (using stainless steel so youre not replacin the thing ever month) plays absolutely perfect