Active/passive switch on Sterling SUB bass

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Theunknownknows, May 30, 2018.

  1. Theunknownknows

    Theunknownknows

    Jun 9, 2015
    Hello all,

    So I want to add a Active/passive switch to my bass. I need to know where in the schematic should I add the switch. And wich of the pots is shown on the active/passive switch. Any help is appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. fermata

    fermata Guest

    Nov 10, 2015
    The 25K volume pot will suck most of the sound in passive mode, so you have to bypass all the controls and run the pickup straight to the jack if you want to use the bass passive. Having experimented fairly extensively with running a Ray4 passive, the stock pickup (which is hardwired parallel) won't sound very good passive. It's not the pickup's fault: parallel wiring just sounds weak in the MM sweet spot without a preamp; put a MM pickup in series (you'll need one with four wires), and there are more possibilities.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2018
    peter-j likes this.
  3. Theunknownknows

    Theunknownknows

    Jun 9, 2015
    I saw your thread, great work btw, but I have one of the newer Ray5s, the ones that have too much gain. I measured my pick up resistance and it seems to be wired in series(6.8ohms). Also another difference that I spotted, even tho the wiring is the same as the schematic I posted, my bass uses 100k pots. Would I be ok wiring the volume liek that?
     
  4. fermata

    fermata Guest

    Nov 10, 2015
    100K would certainly be better than 25K, although there's a reason 250K/500K are typical for passive basses. And 6.8K is likely parallel, so I still think you'll be disappointed with the outcome. A new preamp would probably be a better option. For instance: Blackouts Bass Preamp
    Another option is to use the stacked version (Blackouts Bass Preamp) and use the extra hole for a passive tone pot (you could use a push-pull pot for your active/passive switch).

    If you simply want to make your bass passive as-is, ignore the first diagram you posted; it won't match the stock wiring on your bass (that one puts the volume after the pre-amp, which was a mod for the first gen Ray4/5 series; 100K is right for a pot before the preamp; 25K works better after the preamp). Simply follow the switch diagram wiring; when you open up your bass, just follow the wires to see where the come from/go, and wire accordingly. (You can ignore the tone pot in the diagram.)
     
    peter-j likes this.
  5. ctmullins

    ctmullins Dominated Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 18, 2008
    MS Gulf Coast
    I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
    I’m curious what this is about. Could you elaborate on how this is related to your wish to run passive?
     
  6. Theunknownknows

    Theunknownknows

    Jun 9, 2015
    Would you have a diagram for that? I jumped the gun and sold the Seymour Duncan I had put there and dont recall how it is supposed to go. The need for the active/passive is because I had already drilled an series parallel for the SD pup.
     
  7. ctmullins

    ctmullins Dominated Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 18, 2008
    MS Gulf Coast
    I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
    Sorry, still not following. What problem are you trying to solve?
     
  8. Theunknownknows

    Theunknownknows

    Jun 9, 2015
    Sorry, english is not my first language.

    I bought this bass 3 years ago brand new and put a Seymour Duncan pickup and a series/parallel switch. I bought another bass last year and wasn't using this one and ended up selling the seymour duncan pickup. Now I intend to put back the original pickup and use the switch that was for series/parallel as a active/passive switch so I don't leave a hole on the pickguard. Trouble is, I don't remember how it should go originally, and never done a active/passive switch before.
     
    ctmullins likes this.
  9. Theunknownknows

    Theunknownknows

    Jun 9, 2015
    So this is what I ended up with. Either I wired something wrong or the switch melted inside, because I only get (active) sound if i hold the switch between the two positions. Any ideas?
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Erik herman

    Erik herman Gold Supporting Member

    It can somehow be done, I used to have a USA sub with that exact mod, I can’t be much help because I never bothered to look at how it was wired or with what, never had to fiddle with the electronics. But only to be optimistic that it can be achieved and it can sound perfectly fine!
     
  11. fermata

    fermata Guest

    Nov 10, 2015
    Hmmm...double-check your wiring and solder joints, but that sounds like a bad switch to me. (It is possible to fry switches.)
     
    Theunknownknows likes this.
  12. Theunknownknows

    Theunknownknows

    Jun 9, 2015
    Sorry for the delay. Yep, I had fried the switch. Wired a new one in and it worked perfectly.

    As per the results, it sounds better than I expected. In passive mode it sounds vintage-y. I think I like it better than active even.
     
    dralionux and fermata like this.