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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by D REESE, Feb 4, 2019.
That can be arranged...................
That wouldn't be a bad price if it was all original, and most importantly, still in working condition. But it's neither. Barring a miracle (finding a working v1 pre), it can never be restored back to original condition.
In addition, you're going to have to invest more just to get it up and running at all. By the time you get done you'll have well over a grand into it, even if you do the work yourself. I think you'll be upside down money-wise then, unlikely to get that much back out of it when/if you decide to sell. $1000+ puts you squarely into original vintage territory. If it were me I'd hold out for the real thing for that kind of money, or maybe add a couple Bens for a pristine example that will hold its value. Good luck.
I will put the updated preamp into it and get it set up, that's it, definitely not a grand.
This is a bass i will only record with, and i wouldn't sell it, so i don't have to worry about it being perfectly vintage.
I wish I had a nickel for every time I said those words!
Anyway, G&L's are cool, I know you'll enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine. Cheers.
haha i hear you, im a stay at home dad, so money is very tight.
I saved for this bass for a long time, but yes i will enjoy this bass
It wasn't last I checked, particularly for one in th hat condition.
I am confused, are you getting zero out when active or some output in some positions?
I have a very early L2000E with B00... serial number. I thought it was on the bridge.
Zero out with the active on, when i turn the active toggle on there is no sound.
When i turn off the active electronics all the pickups work.
Im wondering if this guy just disabled the electronics ?
that would be strange considering there was a battery inside
A $50 preamp and someone installing it shouldn't put this over a grand. L2000E series basses are excellent IME.
Do the tone controls work in passive?
This might seem like a dumb question, have you tried multiple batteries? Any connections look loose?
Yes they do
Probably cheaper to be hit by one than to own one. I used to have one just like that (only yellow). The volume of parts that I needed to shovel into it each year when it was still running was absolutely incredible. My favorite was the time I was driving to work and it began spraying oil out of the hood louvers onto the windshield. And then like a fool I turned on the wipers which smeared it all around and I couldn't see out! I had to roll down the window and stick my head out to see to pull over and stop.
HOWEVER! Given a nice crisp fall sunny day, a winding paved country road, the top down, And the purr of that engine and whatever it cost and no matter what crap it made you put up with, it was all paid back in full and worth it! Trust me.
Then that much is right with it. Also, the third preamp position is treble boost.
yes thank goodness
I went out and bought a brand new 9v and no luck.
I opened her up and none of the wires were loose.
It would be great if it was something silly, and the guitar tech got it to work lol
when the series parallel switch is forward, the bass boost doesn't work when i select the bridge or both pickups ?
the bass boost only works when the neck pickup is selected, what would cause that ?
If the passive mode works, but active and active with treble boost do not that means that either the preamp is not getting power (bad jack, bad battery, wiring issue like bad connection of broken wire) or te preamp is dead. If the preamp is dead the usual problem is the IC on it is burned out. This is common and happened to mine (which is newer and not 81). Repairing is not a super big deal (or you copld sjut replace the whole board) but does take some electronic skill. What you'd want to do is remove the IC from the board without damaging the board (hence the skill) and install an IC socket so next time you won't have to do this again and endanger the board. And the kicker is that the ICs used on the original preamps are discontinued and no longer made. G&L Has worked out a replacement (the number of which I forget) that works pretty well. If you dont just replace the whole board, I'd get a skilled PC board experienced tech to fix it. But first cut would be to make sure 9 volts is getting to board to rule out a bad battery or jack (Jack is switch for the preamp power, note power is on when cord is plugged in even if bass is in passive mode).
I bought a brand new battery, soits not that.
But maybe there is a bad connection ? maybe the preamp isn't fried ?
I will bring it in to my guitar tech in the morning to see.
Thank you for this
I'm not sure what you mean by "bass boost". Generally there is only bass cut! However, when the series/parallel switch (if that is what it is doing on yours) gives a louder bass boost in series mode. In parallel there are more mids. In either position you should be able to select bridge pickup alone, both pickups on and neck pickup alone. You test this in passive mode with a paper clip or small screwdriver you tap on the pole pieces. In "neck only" both rows of neck poles should make noise and bridge poles should not. In Bridge only it's the opposite. In "both" all four rows of
poles should give clicking sounds.
If there is some kind of single coil tap wiring then one row of poles will be considerably louder than the other one. Good luck. VERY cool bass to own and worth making the effort to get it all working again.
Key is to check that 9v is getting to preamp board and board is grounded properly. Jack acts as switch for the power and also could be the problem. Good luck.
I’m going to bring it in tmrw, the seller got back to me and feels bad that it doesn’t work.
We shall see, but thank you