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All your frets are belong to us

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by craptastic, Jul 25, 2002.

  1. How would one go about defretting a bass, ala Jaco?
  2. Rod B.

    Rod B.

    Jun 11, 2002
  3. Ah... thanks! This should be an interesting project. Interesting how perfect they get it. You'd never know it had a previous life as a fretted instrument.
  4. Why do they cut a new nut for the bass in that guide??
  5. Brad Johnson

    Brad Johnson

    Mar 8, 2000
    Gaithersburg, Md
    DR Strings
    Because the nut no longer needs to be high enough for the string to clear the frets.
  6. embellisher

    embellisher Holy Ghost filled Bass Player Supporting Member

    If you defret a bass, for maximum mwaah, you need very low action. And too high of a nut messes up intonation in the low register as well. So, you either need to file down the existing nut, or cut a new one.
  7. Before you do it, MAKE SURE YOU WANT TO! I defretted my begginner bass because I thought it would give it some more attention since I got the new Jazz. Sure I paid attention to it the first few weeks Iafter I did it, and a few weeks during the time I let my friend borrow the Jazz, but otherwise it still just kinda sits there. I'm really regretting it because both my little brother and my best friend took interest in learning bass and it would have been great if I would have left the frets in and sold it to them. Ohh well.

    But the project itself was fun! Hell I'd rather buy basses just to upgrade and tinker with 'em rather than actually play 'em!
  8. Interesting.

    I've been meaning to ask... what is "mwah?"
  9. Its the sound it makes from sliding up and down the fretboard. Of course IME its always been more of a "bawuuummmm" but ya know YMMV.
  10. Two more things I'm not 100% clear on in this guide:

    1) How exactly do I go about trimming the maple strips? More accurately, what would be the best method to go about doing so?

    2) It says the fingerboard is "trued" with a radiused sanding block. What does "trued" mean?

    I'm gonna do my homework, because damnit, I don't want to mess this up! Since in that case I'll have to spend some real money to get it repaired. That would be bad, because I don't have money, seeing as how I just spent $37.10 after the input jack tore through the pickguard. (Don't step on that cable!!) So it would just sit in my closet, neglected. You get the idea.
  11. In answer to question 1 - you can just go out and buy some maple or birch strips that already come cut very thin (I think its called vaneered or something.) I can't imagine going through the pain of cutting those little strips yourself! :eek:
    You could also go out and buy some wood filler, it would be cheaper and much less of a pain. I filled mine with polyester resin, but thats only because I had a fiberglass and plastics class and it was free as opposed top going out and buying wood filler (yeah I'm cheap.)

    Question #2 I should have done a little research on myself. I really didn't think that the fretboard radius really mattered. Trued i'm assuming just means the freboard has a radius. Can anyone fill me in on what the radius does?

    Slightly off topic, has anyone looked down the fretboard of a classical guitar? The freboard looks like it arches in instead of out right? Its actually perfectly flat, we're just so used to seeing the radius on regular guitars/basses.
  12. What I meant was, once the maple strips have dried, how do you "rough cut" them down before leveling them with the, uh, leveler?
  13. Ohh uhhh I'd assume with a razor blade.

    The leveler ehh? You mean the sandpaper? :D
  14. No, the sandpaper comes after the leveler. I think it's called a planer or something.
  15. One more thing: How would you remove the nut?

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