Allen Key

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by harleypriest1, Jul 13, 2020.

  1. harleypriest1


    Jul 13, 2020
    Hi, i recently purchased an ibanez SR300EB. I need to change the action of the bass. But i dont know what size allen key i need . I believe the Bridge is called B120. If anyone could help that would be great as im quite new to bass.
  2. Snaxster


    Nov 29, 2008
    Hello. Woe be unto any Ibanez bass owners who don't have the original user manual. Wow! :)

    Here is the info:
  3. Liko


    Mar 30, 2007
    DFW Metro
    Being Ibanez and therefore Asian-made, I would expect all the Allen screws on that bass to be metric size, probably 5-6 mm for the truss rod.

    But I wouldn't buy just the one, of course. As a bassist, you are going to want a set of the tools you need to perform a basic setup, which will include full sets of both metric and SAE Allen keys. Don't cheap out; less expensive sets tend to be made of softer steel, which will round off over time and become useless. Personally I recommend these keys from Bondhus. I've had them longer than I've known my wife, and they do the job really well. The extra length really helps for high-torque adjustments like truss rods, and the ball ends help you get to screws mounted in weird spaces.

    Other tools you will want to keep handy for basic adjustments and instrument maintenance:
    • Screwdrivers in Philips and flathead, #1 and #2 sizes (I recommend against bit drivers as they often don't fit into recessed screw shafts, but one of these is really handy)
    • A depth gauge for measuring string and pickup heights (engineers' calipers like these are the ideal, but you can buy one of these for less than $5 at most hardware stores and it will do the same job)
    • A capo to cancel out nut height when doing some measurements (pretty much any design will work, you'll just be capoing the first fret; a Shubb works really well and they're not expensive)
    • A string winder and cutter (one of these works okay, and is pretty much the only bass-size peg winder you're likely to find; if you learn nothing else about bass maintenance, learn to change a string properly)
    • A tuner (again, almost anything works well, the Snark clip-on tuner is well-liked, personally for a lot of my instruments I use an NS Micro and just leave it on the headstock all the time)
    • A graphite mechanical pencil, Chap-stick, silicone lube or a name brand "nut sauce" to lubricate the string grooves of the nut (silicone lube and nut sauce are also good for open-gear tuning machines)
    • Mineral oil to clean and condition your fretboard and neck during string changes (USP grade from a pharmacy, often sold as a laxative, is cheap and easy to find; commercial products typically add a dash of lemon or orange oil to help clean. Either way, a little goes a long way especially on finished fretboards)
    • Toothpicks and wood or school glue (you will, sooner or later, strip out a screw hole on a pickguard or control plate. When that happens, a dab of glue on the end of a toothpick or three, stick the toothpick(s) in the hole, cut them flush with end nippers or a flat nail clipper, let dry and put the screw back in)
    I'm sure others will chime in with things I forgot, but these are the basic tools to keep your bass in tiptop shape. More advanced maintenance or fixes, such as to the wiring, will require soldering equipment (iron, solder, flux, cleaning station) and a multimeter (to check component values, diagnose wiring problems and verify fixes), while fret leveling and dressing will require another set of tools again. All of these require knowledge of how to use them as well; this level of luthierie is easier to screw up and more expensive to fix if you do. In a basic setup, the only thing you really have to be careful of is to go easy on the truss rod.
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020