Ampeg 1510 gave up the ghost

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Ericfx, Feb 11, 2017.

  1. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO
    I have been running a Gailen Kruger Backline 600 into a beater ampeg 1510 less than $150 tied up in the whole rig...

    Anyway... I need to reload it with new speaker... I want a final load of 4 ohm. Please recommend me some speakers... also where should I go to buy them?

    The 1510 has a 10" (Carvin ps10, 8ohm) & a 15" (Ampeg 16ohm). The 10" driver is in a small sealed chamber. The chamber for the 15" is much larger, 4-5 times than the 10", & its also vented.

    The crossover is bypassed and the tweeter is uncooked...

    The problem is the 8ohm Carvin 10" was getting about 67% of the amp's power. While the 16ohm 15" driver would have seem around 33%

    The rig sounded good until the 10" ripped the surround away from the cone.

    I think my best course of action is to replace both speakers. Each with 8ohm speakers ran in parallel... this will give me a solid 4 ohm load... allowing the Gailen Kruger BL600 to deliver a full 300 watts, but more importantly it will give me a balanced load

    Thanks in advance guys and gals
  2. Even with both speakers being 8 ohm, without a crossover you will tear up the 10" again.
    FingerDub and andruca like this.
  3. FunkHead

    FunkHead Supporting Member

    Mar 10, 2007
    What was the original 10" driver? I would try to get as close to original all the way around.
    96tbird likes this.
  4. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO

    honsstly... I don't think either one is original... so you guess is as good as mine...
  5. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO
    Why do you say that?
  6. Look at the differences in power handling and the speakers xmax. There really are not that many (if any) 10" that can keep up with a 15" when given equal power.
    andruca likes this.
  7. FunkHead

    FunkHead Supporting Member

    Mar 10, 2007
    I am sure Ampeg put a ton of research into that cab. It is important to work within the design specs. I am sure you can find the info needed to restore it to factory specs. Then it will only handle what it was designed for. Or use a calculator to "Upgrade" it for more power. There are some great companies that will assist you and then sell you the correct drivers.
    96tbird and bobyoung53 like this.
  8. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO

    Thanks for the input. But I disagree.

    For a lot of reasons...

    1.) Separate cabs (ie a sealed chamber inside a vented chamber)

    2.) Size of the cone has little effect on power handling... example some manufacturers use the same magnet and coil on 10", 12", & 15"... result... same power handling...

    3.) As for xmax... this should be under control by a properly sized enclosure and running appropriate wattage. That is to say more wattage = more extension (xmax), likewise less wattage = less extension m

    4.) A 10" does not need to 'keep up' with a 15"... in fact by saying 10" needs a cross over to be ran with a 15" it would be like saying that all cabs containing 10" drivers needs to be rolloved off early... that's just not the case?

    Most... bass cabs run the driver direct feed no matter what the size of the driver is

    5.) This is no different than running a 10" cab and a separate 15" cab...

    In my situation the 10" was getting hit with around 185 watts... the 15" was getting hit with around 90... the power handling on the carvin ps10 was only 200 peak... im sure by now you can see the problem was simply that the ps10 was getting the close to to limits... simple as that..

    Its true some 15" have higher power handling... but it doesn't matter if you are within the power limits and a decently matched cab
    bobyoung53 likes this.
  9. Good luck then
    AlexanderB, Jeff Scott and JimiLL like this.
  10. BassmanPaul

    BassmanPaul Inactive

    It makes no sense to me that the 15 is a 16Ω driver. The Carvin 10 shouldn’t be in there but even so it should be on the “high” output of the crossover. That limits the lows from reaching the 10. You cannot simply wire the two drivers in parallel as you will just destroy the 10 again.

    You may disagree with @Bass_Pounder but he is correct none the less. Your knowledge of the engineering behind cabinet design and wiring appears to be limited.

    Dropping any old driver into an unsuitable enclosure is a great way to damage that driver. The parameters of the driver have to suit the enclosure and the diameter of said driver is the least important one of all.
    Jeff Scott and JimiLL like this.
  11. kpc


    Apr 6, 2011
    Probably would only work well with a crossover and a volume control on the 10 I think.
    Ericfx likes this.
  12. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO
    I did not put these speakers in the cab..m came that way... Craig's list. Figured I would run it till it blew up
  13. bobyoung53

    bobyoung53 Supporting Member

    If you put two 8 ohm 150 watt speakers in that cab, you could run them both in parallel with no problems at all at 300 watts. That cab was originally an 8 ohm 175 watt cab, I doubt very much there was a lo cut crossover going to the 10" speaker. You would need to find out the specs for the 15" though since it's going into a ported cab, should match at least somewhat close to the specs of what the cab was designed for. I did just do a quick search though and 4 ohm 150 watt bass speakers do not seem to be very common.
    Ericfx likes this.
  14. agedhorse

    agedhorse Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 12, 2006
    Davis, CA (USA)
    Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
    From memory, each driver was 16 ohms, paralleled for an 8 ohm load.

    The problem is that your "replacement" 10" driver was 8 ohms which skewed the power handling in the wrong direction.

    Find a suitable 10", 16 ohm replacement driver (suitable for a sealed enclosure) and you will be back to what Ampeg originally intended.

    If you really want a 4 ohm cabinet, you will need to replace both drivers with 8 ohm, and again the 15 must be suited to the enclosure tuning of the cabinet. There are some suitable 10" drivers with real world power handling in the 250-300 watt range, but they will be a little bit more expensive than the average driver.
    Ericfx likes this.
  15. NortyFiner

    NortyFiner Drunken Sailor Gold Supporting Member

    Mar 23, 2008
    Portsmouth VA USA
    More info on this cab to be found here...


    You could also drop Ampeg a line to ask about the specs and speakers, to make sure you're doing the right thing with it.
  16. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO
    Well I got to looking and it looks like ampeg used a 15" 16ohm and a 10" 16ohm... so after looking a little closure at the crossover and it seems that the 10 & 15 are both in parallel. .. the pad control seems to only adjust the horn... in short the crossover is not padding the 10" for what I can tell
    agedhorse likes this.
  17. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO
    agedhorse likes this.
  18. Ericfx


    Nov 9, 2016
    Independence, MO
    After looking at the crossover and how it is hooked up... I'm convinced that ampeg was hooking both drivers in parallel with and that the crossover was only effecting the horn (mine is a 1510he)

    Then if you look here (post 14) I'm even further convinced

    Can I convert my Ampeg 1510e from 8Ohm to 4Ohm?
  19. Soulfinger


    Sep 20, 2004
    Houston, TX
    I would consider ditching the tweeter, putting in a suitable 8 ohm 15 that can handle a lot of lows, and putting a 10" guitar speaker I the sealed box with a suitable hi pass crossover. Should get you some cool old school tones.
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2017
    Ericfx likes this.
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