Ampeg 8x10 Cab Malfunction

Is that the only note you're having trouble with? There are other possible causes, too...hard to say without seeing it. Wouldn't be looking to drill any holes or add screws just yet without investigating fully.

 

It is likely the baffles between the 4 sets of speaker pairs. I used drywall screws on one of mine, no more noise. No one ever sees it unless you take the grille off.

 

I did mine about 15 years ago, have had no rattles since then. You can hardly see them even standing right in front of it with the grille off.

 

There are different lengths, I think I used maybe 1 1/2", could have been 2" but either way they go in quickly especially if you use a drill and a screwdriver bit but even by hand they go in easy, mine are flat back cabs. I bought one cheap because of the noise and figured it couldn't be too hard to fix. I went crazy with them, did the sides and everything, wasn't until I was almost done that I realized it was just the baffles vibrating against front of the cab, maybe they are originally glued to the front? Easy fix though.

 

They come in a wide variety of lengths. I'd think 2" would do. But drill clearance holes through the baffle first. Otherwise the joint might not pull together tightly.

 

Most of them are black already.

 

I wouldn't drill holes with those, they are made with their threads very slanted (don't know the correct word) and screw in very easily, they might not even hold if you drill pilot holes, buy some and check them out first, they go in very easily with no pilot hole and have a very sharp point, also start very easily. Once in though they will tighten up firm and don't come lose, like I said mine have been in at least 15 years. I think 2" would probably be best.

 

Drill small pilot holes first, to full depth. Then enlarge ONLY the baffle portion to clearance. This will give the best result.

 

You don't need pilot holes with Drywall screws in fact they would probably be detrimental, these screws are made to quickly drill into a wall with no pilot hole, they are thin screws with large slanted threads.

 

First, try moving the offending spkr to a different location in the cab.....see if the noise moves with it or stays in the same place on the baffle board.
If it stays in the same location THEN use screws/ glue to tighten it up.
Yes, drywall (sheetrock) screws have a very steep pitch to the threads, which is why you DO want a pilot hole in the baffle only. Here's why.......
Unless you have clamps and cauls to lock the baffle and partition tightly together (150~200lbs of force) , or you can lay the cab on its back and stand on the loose part of the baffle while you drive in the screws, then the screw won't pull the parts into secure contact, it will leave a little freeplay between the two pieces you're trying to lock up. If you drill a sufficiently large hole in the baffle ( just so the screw shank can pass through cleanly) then when you tighten it down it will pull the baffle board into hard contact with the wood behind it.

 

+1 on the above post.
What happens to cause that gap is the screw is biting into the 1st board then pushes the 1st board slightly away from the 2nd board as it tries/starts going into the 2nd board & never fully pulls the 2 together. Drilling the hole in the 1st board assures that the screws curved shank & head is what grabs the 1st board while the threads grab the 2nd pulling them tight.
This isn't an issue when using them for hanging drywall & isn't always necessary, but in this case I'd drill the hole.
I'd recommend a 2" long screw & an 1/8" drill bit for the hole.

 

Use a better screw than a drywall screw.
Many better construction grade screws are available in the orange or blue store, or any other handyman source.

 

1/16" PILOT hole full depth, 1/8" CLEARANCE hole for just the baffle. Lest you split the 45 year old wood that you are driving the screw into on edge. Without a pilot hole, the wood has to expand to make a hole for the screw. Good for hanging drywall, not so good when driving into old plywood on edge.

Baffle thickness plus 3/4" is a good screw length. The average person can't drill a 2" deep 1/16" hole into wood without breaking the bit and making things worse, and 3/4" into wood will hold just as good as going any deeper. Get a 1/16" wood bit for drilling and pull it out every 1/4" to 1/2" to release the saw dust. The 1/8" clearance hole needs to be drilled 2nd with a regular metal type bit. Lower drill speed, light pressure. Like marriage, practice on scrap if not very experienced.