Ampeg Grille Noise? Try this.

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by voided3, Sep 21, 2018.

  1. voided3

    voided3

    Nov 11, 2008
    I thought I'd share what worked for me to silence the grille vibration noise I was getting on my Ampeg SVT-410HE. I see a common fix for any Velcro-attached grille is to screw the grille on with a screw and finishing washer in each corner, which certainly is effective, but I did three things that helped keep a stock appearance and resolve the issue.

    1. Ensure the Velrco fasteners are actually lined up. Mine were not from the factory, which means the screw in the center of the fasteners were not allowing them to interlock all of the way. To position them precisely, I unscrewed the fasteners from the cabinet baffle and snapped them onto the grille fasteners with the screws still in them. I then laid the cabinet on its back, lined up the grille, and gave each corner a gentle tap with a rubber mallet. The screw on each fastener left an impression where it needed to be screwed into the cabinet, like a using a punch. The original holes were about 1/4" off on each corner from the factory. Now the hold is much stronger.
    2. Wipe down the white piping and tolex around the edge of the grille (that the piping touches) with silicone spray. I gave this a try as I know silicone prevents automotive weather stripping from squeaking and drying out. It turns out that it also keeps the grille on your Ampeg cabinet from squeaking against the tolex! Spray a small amount on a paper towel and wipe the surfaces down, then follow up with a dry paper towel to catch any excess.
    3. Install rubber feet behind the grille frame. The MDF grille frame on my cabinet, like many Ampegs, had become warped from the tension of the grille cloth. It also has a fair amount of flex on a larger cabinet like my 410HE, even without the warp. I installed four 0.75" tall by 1.5" wide rubber feet (same size used on the bottom of the cabinet) on the cabinet baffle, centered on each side to line up with the grille frame. Ideally, you would want rubber feet that are closer to 1" in height, but these are what I had on hand. I used some 3M Dual Lock as a "shim" between the rubber feet and the grille frame at the contact points to add the necessary height. This both straightened out the grille and gave it more support to keep it from flexing and vibrating while playing loudly.

    I now get why so many bass cab manufacturers use steel grilles (haha). I also see why Fliptops uses plywood grille frames for their replacement units. That said, I really like the look of a cloth grille and this set of cheap/free fixes worked for me.
     
  2. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Gold Supporting Member

    clever! :thumbsup:

    pics? it's not that don't believe you....


    :laugh:
     
    mbelue likes this.
  3. voided3

    voided3

    Nov 11, 2008
    Haha :D I have the cab packed up for a gig tomorrow, otherwise I'd snap a few, but it looks stock with the grille on. It's basically just four rubber feet screwed to the baffle on the center of each side, centered between the mounting points for the grille and intersecting the grille frame.
     
    JRA likes this.
  4. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Gold Supporting Member

    if you say so....:laugh:
     
  5. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Gold Supporting Member

    seriously: you did good. i just take the metal grills off and put individual speaker grills when/where i can. your solution is better/cheaper! :thumbsup:
     
    voided3 likes this.